Warmoth 10-16 Compound Radius

[jerryjg]

Lets discuss again, cause I cannot find the original post where I commented on it.
For one thing, 16" is too flat for me. I would prefer something like 10.5- 12.0
I voiced another concern, and it s also steering me away from the Warmoth Compound Radii.
That being that Ive heard  luthiers exclaim that the 10-16 compound radius from Warmoth is impossible to level out to where it won't buzz . Ive heard more than one profesional tech voice this concern. I forgot what the answer was that one of you gave me, so Im reposting this.
For the time being I'm scared of the Warmoth compound radius and staying away.

 

[blue313]

http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=7884.msg102942#msg102942

 

[jerryjg]

http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=7884.msg102942#msg102942

Thank you much beloved one!

 

[GoDrex]

I'm not really a fan of it and I wish I didn't get my LP neck like that. Should have gone with the straight 12, but oh well, live and learn.

 

[Wyliee]

Lets discuss again, cause I cannot find the original post where I commented on it.
For one thing, 16" is too flat for me. I would prefer something like 10.5- 12.0
I voiced another concern, and it s also steering me away from the Warmoth Compound Radii.
That being that Ive heard  luthiers exclaim that the 10-16 compound radius from Warmoth is impossible to level out to where it won't buzz . Ive heard more than one profesional tech voice this concern. I forgot what the answer was that one of you gave me, so Im reposting this.
For the time being I'm scared of the Warmoth compound radius and staying away.

Anyone can call themselvs a tech.  The next time you hear someone say this, ask them why.  Over the years at Warmoth, I've spoken with hundreds of technicians.  A *comptetant* technician should have no problems levelling a compound radius neck.

 

[Kostas]

I won't go under 9 or over 12. All my necks have straight radius. It would be nice to have a 9-12 compound to see if I can feel the difference.

 

[nathan a]

The LP I built for my pa has the compound radius. It set up great, no buzzes, and true I do not feel it! The only reason I do not use one is I like a much more rounded neck. If I could do 7.25"-11" then oh boy, sign me up!

(I know USA CG offers the 7.25-9.5, I haven't tried it but probably will eventually)

 

[Death by Uberschall]

In actuality a compound radius neck should have less chance of buzzing because as you move up the neck towards the bridge, the frets get flatter and slightly lower in height.

 

[simple]

Yep, I remember this post from the past too so I will repeat my previous comment.

I have many Warmoth necks and my best playing ones are with the Compound Radius. I don't do buzzing necks so if it were an issue, I wouldn't be of this opinion.

Both Eric and I have had the honor of being Return Managers for Warmoth we can tell you after selling thousands of them, the Compound Radius is very popular and we don't get returns for buzzing issues. I feel very confident recommending them since I have first hand experience myself on top of countless feedback from customers across the globe.

On a related topic, you may have noticed that we have been introducing new products into the Showcase faster than we can put up web pages of them like the Carved Top Tele, the chambered Explorer, Firebird and Thunderbird, the Deluxe 5 Z Body, the Deluxe 5 Iceman, etc. Well, get ready to see some new neck options for bass and guitar as well. I heard yesterday that new compound radius options will be offered. It is going to be a great year for new offerings from Warmoth!

 

[dbw]

Yep, I remember this post from the past too so I will repeat my previous comment.

I have many Warmoth necks and my best playing ones are with the Compound Radius. I don't do buzzing necks so if it were an issue, I wouldn't be of this opinion.

Both Eric and I have had the honor of being Return Managers for Warmoth we can tell you after selling thousands of them, the Compound Radius is very popular and we don't get returns for buzzing issues. I feel very confident recommending them since I have first hand experience myself on top of countless feedback from customers across the globe.

On a related topic, you may have noticed that we have been introducing new products into the Showcase faster than we can put up web pages of them like the Carved Top Tele, the chambered Explorer, Firebird and Thunderbird, the Deluxe 5 Z Body, the Deluxe 5 Iceman, etc. Well, get ready to see some new neck options for bass and guitar as well. I heard yesterday that new compound radius options will be offered. It is going to be a great year for new offerings from Warmoth!

Woot...  :toothy10:

 

[mayfly]

Yep, I remember this post from the past too so I will repeat my previous comment.

I have many Warmoth necks and my best playing ones are with the Compound Radius. I don't do buzzing necks so if it were an issue, I wouldn't be of this opinion.

Both Eric and I have had the honor of being Return Managers for Warmoth we can tell you after selling thousands of them, the Compound Radius is very popular and we don't get returns for buzzing issues. I feel very confident recommending them since I have first hand experience myself on top of countless feedback from customers across the globe.

On a related topic, you may have noticed that we have been introducing new products into the Showcase faster than we can put up web pages of them like the Carved Top Tele, the chambered Explorer, Firebird and Thunderbird, the Deluxe 5 Z Body, the Deluxe 5 Iceman, etc. Well, get ready to see some new neck options for bass and guitar as well. I heard yesterday that new compound radius options will be offered. It is going to be a great year for new offerings from Warmoth!

Woot...  :toothy10:

Ye Haw!  :headbang:

 

[nathan a]

Whoa! Awesome!

Also, you guys are killing me! I just bought my new neck!  :laughing7:

 

[Unwound G]

How about a redesigned narrower LP headstock more in line with vintage Standards ?  Just suggesting  :redflag:.

 

[stubhead]

These "luthiers" and "professional" techs aren't - either luthiers or professional. They're incompetent. Having said that, there's also a lot to be said for the straight radii, particularly, in my case, the ease with which you can play partial ring-and-little finger barres in the upper frets. However, that has nothing to do with conmen (who can't set up guitars & better not get near your frets) telling you lies to trick you into giving them your money - that's called "capitalism", which is a whole 'nother post (or two)*. :toothy12:


*(uh-oh)

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

What's great about the compound radius is it's an attempt at a "one size fits all" neck radius.  It's rounder at the nut for chording and flatter as you go up the neck for lead work.  Most of us aren't chording past the 12th fret or doing lightning fast leads on the first three frets.  I have one and it is the greatest feeling fretboard radius I've ever had.  I took it in for a setup, mainly for a nut lowering and to have the finish removed from the frets.  I asked for a fret level, but he insisted it didn't need one.  The action is super-low with no fretting out or buzzing.  I showed it to a Parker Fly player, who loves Teles, but never cared for the rounder Fender radius.  He said it was perfect for him.  I can understand it isn't for everyone and won't work great with a bridge that doesn't have individually adjustable saddles like a T-O-M or OFR.

 

[Keyser Soze]

Here's a quote from another well respected guitar maker, Ken Parker, from an interview with ToneQuest Magazine.

TQR:      How did you arrive at the fretboard radius for your guitars?

On any stringed instrument where the string spacing is wider at the bridge than it is at the neck, the surface of a correct fingerboard is a cone and not a cylinder. It’s a section of a paper coffee cup, not a soda can. In that event, the arc on the fingerboard is different everywhere. It changes.

TQR:      You’re saying it should change, ideally…

It has to change…in order for it to be correct. The big manufacturers have never used conical surfaces – they never have. One of he reasons to refret a guitar is to flatten the end of the fretboard so it doesn’t fret out when you bend strings. They fret out because they’re too curved up there and if they are built correctly they won’t fret out.

http://www.tonequest.com/articles/article23.htm

Ken's not a big fan of the term 'compound radius' for somewhat pedantic (but technically accurate) reasons.  But he does understand that a conical neck is best for the electric guitar.

Whether 10-16, or any other variation on the same theme, is 'best' depends more on the style of the player and the shape of his hands.  Personally I find it much more difficult to play 'thumb over' on anything above a 12" radius.  So although I have three Warmoth 10-16 radius necks, they do present me with some limitations, and I wish Warmoth would offer other conical options, say a 7 1/4"-9 1/2".

 

[stubhead]

The compound radius is what repairmen were doing anyway. When they refretted a highly curved Fender neck, they'd use bigger frets and level the centers flatter so that bent notes wouldn't fret out. Warmoth's contour is just an acknowledgement of what the best tech guys had been grinding into Van Halen's, Beck's, McLaughlin's guitars for years. When you play a straight 12" neck for a year then level the frets exactly to the wear pattern, it's going to come out shaped to the musician's playing methodology.... if I want a 11" to 13" radius neck, it's easier to get to from a straight 12 than from a compound. I'm not even sure what I like - it's whatever I play to - I've leveled my scalloped 12" to 16" radius boatneck thrice now (dog bless 6100's), and it's not even consistent from side to side - but each string path is straight, cause that's how just it works when you level 'em with the Majik Marker/inked-twice method. I put a straight-12 on Gleamo but the SS frets are so hard they won't tell me what they want, yet.

I think it's stone-cold nutty to Plek a factory guitar, when the seller doesn't even know the string gauges or playing style of the (prospective) buyer? NO new guitar is as perfect as it can be, till you set it up for YOU.... a seminal reason the entire "old ones are better" meme got traction is because the old ones are fixed by now to function optimally.

(The ones that didn't get broken cause they sucked, that is.) :headbang:

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

There's a big difference between Luthiers, and "Screwthiers".  The latter being, guitar players who desire to be luthiers, but lack the mentorship and discipline training from an actual luthier, and are skill minimally with the most basic tools needed to just get by with a basic setup, which is still subjective.

A well performed proffessional setup is the result of many cumulative trial and error attempts with failures and successes under supervision and hopefully the master luthier has taken over when he's noticed a potential catastrophe, and has used this as a teachable moment in what could have been a fatally ir-reversable situation at the repairman's expence.

Just because an aspiring guitar player desiring to become a luthier can operate a screwdriver, does not him a luthier make.

 

[imminentG]

All that luthier crap aside, I'm certainly looking forward to these new things Warmoth will offer for their necks.

Despite what anyone can say about how good or bad or "right" a compound radius might be, there is simply no disputing that, well, there is much dispute.

My only real concern is it's compatability with Kinman pickups' staggers.
Other than that, I notice that playing and bending in the upper registers is and has always been a pain in the ass on the gibson neck I've played for a few years. It always seems to feel like I don't have enough space or room to do incredibly much with the B or highE. As the kind of guitarist who likes to be exhert complete control and squeeze the last drop of vibrato out of any note on the fretboard, this has been the everpresent and proverbial thorn in my side.

I guess what I'm asking is, could this possibly have something to do with the fretboard radius or maybe even the neck contour? It had only recently entered my mind that this might not happen on a flatter radius or perhaps a wider nut spacing.

Any feedback is appreciated.

 

[rockskate4x]

Bending DOES have alot to do with back contour actually. If you get a boatneck or some other chunky contour, you will have more leverage to bend the strings, but no matter what the contour it is good to have a flatter radius on the high frets for this sort of thing.