9.5"-14" or 10"-16"? Which compound radius would you recommend?

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I have a Fender with a straight 9.5" neck which I'll replace with a Warmoth and I'm torn between the standard 10"-16" and the 9.5"-14". I've never played in a compound radius before. I'm afraid the 16" will be too extreme.
 
its not worth the upcharge IMO so I would stick with 10-16. If you want to feel 9.5-14 and make your own judgement, any American deluxe American elite or ultra after 2010 has a 9.5-14 compound.
Thank you. There's also the advantage of there existing some 10"-16" in stock, too. Do you think the 16" makes it hard to do chords higher in the neck?
 
Action can be slammed on any radius if the fretwork is perfect- which is not how your neck will arrive. You will want to do a final level and tweak. Also depends on bridge/neck geometry.

I say avoid the upcharge and go with 10-16, it’s not massively different.
 
No way lol, just a minor worrying. I assume that flat of a radius helps keeping the action very low, right?
Yeah its not an issue. Action depends on many factors but the theory of compound radii is that you can get lower than straight radius without having bends choke out.
 
I only have a 10 to 16 I doubt I could tell the difference, but maybe I could.
 
At the money frets it's the same, and up high it's more comfortable. Have no fear.
 
Thank you all, I'm going with the 10"-16". There's also the choice between fret sizes. My Fender is their typical jumbo frets. Which Warmoth is more similar to Fender's, 6150 or 6105?
 
Thank you all, I'm going with the 10"-16". There's also the choice between fret sizes. My Fender is their typical jumbo frets. Which Warmoth is more similar to Fender's, 6150 or 6105?
6150 frets are closer to most modern Fender frets. 6105 frets are a little bit skinnier.
 
I have a Fender with a straight 9.5" neck which I'll replace with a Warmoth and I'm torn between the standard 10"-16" and the 9.5"-14". I've never played in a compound radius before. I'm afraid the 16" will be too extreme.
If I put a half dozen guitars in your hand with different fretboard radii you likely wouldn't notice any difference except at the most extreme ends of the spectrum. Yeah, a 7.5" and a 16" are going to feel a bit wonky next to each other. Going from a 9.5" to a 16"... eh, not so much. There's a really good diagram in this TDPRI thread that shows just how little real world difference there is: https://www.tdpri.com/threads/string-height-and-understring-radius.730022/ Of course, feel is measured in hundredths of a millimeter but even for the most ridiculous of radius changes just give it fifteen minutes and you'll forget.

The real difference is in bent notes. A smaller radius will fret out sooner, sometimes making even a full step bend impossible. This is really why the compound radius was developed, as I understand it. The flatter the board up high, the more room there is for the string to vibrate when it's bent.

Another positive that's not often brought up is that a flatter radius up high allows you to use a flatter radius at the bridge. If you've ever tried to use a pick on a violin you know why that's a good thing. :LOL:
 
If I put a half dozen guitars in your hand with different fretboard radii you likely wouldn't notice any difference except at the most extreme ends of the spectrum. Yeah, a 7.5" and a 16" are going to feel a bit wonky next to each other. Going from a 9.5" to a 16"... eh, not so much. There's a really good diagram in this TDPRI thread that shows just how little real world difference there is: https://www.tdpri.com/threads/string-height-and-understring-radius.730022/ Of course, feel is measured in hundredths of a millimeter but even for the most ridiculous of radius changes just give it fifteen minutes and you'll forget.

The real difference is in bent notes. A smaller radius will fret out sooner, sometimes making even a full step bend impossible. This is really why the compound radius was developed, as I understand it. The flatter the board up high, the more room there is for the string to vibrate when it's bent.

Another positive that's not often brought up is that a flatter radius up high allows you to use a flatter radius at the bridge. If you've ever tried to use a pick on a violin you know why that's a good thing. :LOL:
Charts like that are fine but in real life I notice significant difference between 9.5" and 12". The threshold for differences based on feel is a very subjective and personal thing, but it matters a lot for some. Tradeoffs are inevitable, and bending on a 9.5" sucks compared to a 12" and higher, indeed.

If your Strat pickups are designed for a certain radius, the string-to-string balance could be off with a radically different radius - but, maybe not.
 
Another positive that's not often brought up is that a flatter radius up high allows you to use a flatter radius at the bridge.
It is essential that a progressive radius (wrongly called compound) is maintained, leading to a flatter radius at the bridge, being not just allowed but required for proper set up.

Ergo, a 9.5-14" radius would need about a 16" radius at the bridge. A 10–16" neck would need somewhere around an 18" radius at the bridge.
 
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