Some more stuff arrived:
Warmoth sent me a big ol' bag o' Gotohs! I know it has nothing to do with the neck joint, but it's a New Stuff Day. The gold ones aren't for this project. They are to replace some that went into the trade for the case.
Holes drilled in the neck,using the body as a drill guide.
I like to wax the threads of these screws at first. It makes it much easier to put them in, and helps keep the wood from splitting. Dragging them across an old candle works fine.
The bottom of the joint is where I got some gap-osis. The holes in the body were much smaller than they needed to be, so I enlarged them enough that the screws would slide through. That allowed me a bit of room for adjustment. I did some light sanding on the neck, too. I still got this slight gap. I think it must be the angle at which the neck sits in the joint. To see it in real life, it's miniscule and acceptable. I'll most likely call it good enough.
The sides, however, are tight like a nun! This is why I'm getting the neck mounted & nut installed. I'm preparing to locate the bridge. On a looser neck joint, getting the side-to-side string location can be dialed in simply by loosening the screws, yanking the neck in the right direction, and tightening 'er back up. Not the case with a joint this precise. The bridge location is critical side-to-side! Having the neck & nut where they are gonna be will tell me exactly where to put the bridge.
Planning for installing the nut:
I stole this photo from the Warmoth site. This is how they make a tilt-back headstock neck for a Floyd nut. Very nice!
I'm not so lucky! My neck was originally made for a standard nut. Not a very clear photo, but this obviously ain't gonna work!
There are two ways I thought of to install the Floyd nut on this neck. One is pretty easy because it only involves right angles. I could hog the neck away until I got down to where I have a .612" (the size of the nut) "shelf" perpendicular to the end of the fretboard. Then I would make a .612" block out of maple tall enough to put the nut at the correct height, and glue it in. Simple, right? But that's a whole lot of material to be removing from the area where necks tend to break! Sure, putting the block in would probably make it strong enough, even with all the end grain-to-end grain gluing. But this idea still makes me a little uneasy.
The other way involves a 13-degree angle (the tilt of the headstock). Looking at Warmoth's photo, it's easy to imagine the piece I am missing. I would just make that piece from maple and glue it on. I wouldn't remove ANY material from the neck. In fact I wouldn't do anything to the neck until I was actually gluing the part on. A square block is much easier to make, but I'm leaning toward doing it this way instead.
ccasion14:. 
