Seraph-inspired thinline/semi-hollow

[Cowbell Fever!]

Very nice! Looks beautiful.

 

[stratamania]

It has turned out well in the end. A good recovery  :icon_thumright:

 

[ragamuffin]

Thanks guys! I've started assembly but realized that I didn't countersink the toggle switch hole quite deep enough; I guess we've got to go a little deeper.

 

[ragamuffin]

She's fully assembled and easily the most gorgeous guitar I own. Electronics worked perfectly the first time and the pickups sound great. But... she won't intonate properly... not even close... I'm not sure how this happened.

Anybody have any advice? I have all the saddles set all the way back and they're too sharp. Is there a t.o.m. with further travel?

 

[Cowbell Fever!]

which bridge do you have? I believe the Gibson "Nashville" has more travel than a standard tune o matic
I cant tell from the picture, but I have seen some guitars with tuneomatic saddles turned back wards for further adjustment also.

 

[ragamuffin]

which bridge do you have? I believe the Gibson "Nashville" has more travel than a standard tune o matic
I cant tell from the picture, but I have seen some guitars with tuneomatic saddles turned back wards for further adjustment also.

It's a TonePros Nashville style. I'm thinking I might be able to solve this with a Hipshot "Tone a Matic", which has both further saddle travel AND bridge post travel, but I need to take some measurements and don't have access to my guitar right now https://docs.hipshotproducts.com/4TM060.PDF

 

[Cowbell Fever!]

Not a math wizard, but that looks like it has a bit more travel.

 

[ragamuffin]

Not a math wizard, but that looks like it has a bit more travel.

Oh it's definitely more, the question is if it's enough

 

[ragamuffin]

I'm not sure how I did this and I thought I double/triple checked when locating the bridge, but it looks like I place it about a half an inch too far forward. Looks like the Hipshot might just barely work but I'm not 100% sure

 

[Cowbell Fever!]

Oh Geez! Maybe you could modify the route and drop in a vintage Gibson harmonica bridge?

 

[stratamania]

After all that finish work...I almost hate to say this but you may need to consider this body a learning experience for the next one.

 

[Sadie-f]

I'm not sure how I did this and I thought I double/triple checked when locating the bridge, but it looks like I place it about a half an inch too far forward. Looks like the Hipshot might just barely work but I'm not 100% sure

Ouch, maybe this isn't so much a problem as an opportunity to fix something in the machine shop?

What's the bridge? Can you add photos showing the bridge from pov of the bottom, maybe a couple of angles?

Meantime, accept she's not properly intonated, and enjoy playing that beauty.

 

[stratamania]

Meantime, accept she's not properly intonated, and enjoy playing that beauty.

If it is that far out it would be obviously out of tune so how can someone enjoy playing it? 

 

[Sadie-f]

Meantime, accept she's not properly intonated, and enjoy playing that beauty.

If it is that far out it would be obviously out of tune so how can someone enjoy playing it?

Depends on how far up the neck you work, obviously not ideal for shredding. Could also tune for correct at the 5th or 7th etc fret.

As Stephen Stills said, "love the one you're with"

[Edit] I intonate carefully, and it's good to know the instrument is setup "right" on the other hand, I do it with a regular tuner and honestly I don't know how many cents it's good to. I do know it's not perfect, because on learning here about strobe tuners I picked up an app and it's cool to be able to get down to sub cents. It's also cool to see how much a note varies from pitch as sustain rings out and various harmonics come and go.

I'm an accomplished cook and I can generally outperform most of the restaurant chefs in the not small nor pedestrian city where I live. This doesn't keep me from enjoying going out for a meal, I also like diner food .

This winter I've been playing a wound 3rd, I'm certain that changed the intonation of my G, I didn't sweat it. Many days I just pick up the guitar and play, don't check tuning unless it's out enough that I notice.

A Fender I own has the nut set so high, tuning is off at first couple frets. I could correct that, however I'll probably be selling it and again, it's liveable in an axe I don't play that often

 

[ragamuffin]

Ouch, maybe this isn't so much a problem as an opportunity to fix something in the machine shop?

What's the bridge? Can you add photos showing the bridge from pov of the bottom, maybe a couple of angles?

Meantime, accept she's not properly intonated, and enjoy playing that beauty.

Hey Sadie the current bridge is a TonePros TP6A, a pretty standard Nashville style. What would you suggest doing in a machine shop?

 

[ragamuffin]

After all that finish work...I almost hate to say this but you may need to consider this body a learning experience for the next one.

I get what you're, but I'd rather hack/route things up a bit than have this body just sitting around unplayable

 

[Sadie-f]

Ouch, maybe this isn't so much a problem as an opportunity to fix something in the machine shop?

What's the bridge? Can you add photos showing the bridge from pov of the bottom, maybe a couple of angles?

Meantime, accept she's not properly intonated, and enjoy playing that beauty.

Hey Sadie the current bridge is a TonePros TP6A, a pretty standard Nashville style. What would you suggest doing in a machine shop?

Ok, I see that bridge is aluminum, that will limit some options.

Basically I'd be thinking extend the structure. If it were steel or brass, I'd cut away the rear wall, saving screws and saddles, cut a 1/2" extension of the wall, and solder or braze it in place.

Can't braze or solder Al (well, you can but it would be hard to make pretty). So you could do the same thing, but repurpose the two rear set-screws to use a socket head cap screw to bolt on the extension.

Unfortunately, at that point your strings contact point is cantilevered against the height adjusting screws and they might not be very good at holding that much side-load. Also, they might be okay.  However, worst case you get your height where you want it and install a wood shim that would support that cantilever at the correct height.

Another option is machine an entire new bridge mechanism, not counting the leveling screws and replace what you have with something that's longer.  You could reuse the screws and saddles.

If that description is as clear as mud, I could sketch something.

 

[mayfly]

ooo crap that sucks.  Yes I'd be tempted to get Dangerous Doug to make a custom bridge that locates the saddles 1/2" southwards. 

 

[teleme01]

sounds simple but couldnt you peg the holes and drill new ones?  like you would do with small pickguard holes ? 

 

[stratamania]

sounds simple but couldnt you peg the holes and drill new ones?  like you would do with small pickguard holes ?

The TOM is recessed. Probably it would require filling the holes and the recess and then making a new recess and holes. At which point it will need a refinish.


@Sadie-F. It was a rhetorical question, it will not play in tune, not something I could live with.

Food is different and a broader range of sweet or sour may still be palatable but for me if something is slightly out of tune musically it is just out of tune.

After all that finish work...I almost hate to say this but you may need to consider this body a learning experience for the next one.

I get what you're, but I'd rather hack/route things up a bit than have this body just sitting around unplayable

I am sure you could do something with it to make it work especially after the time spent on it so far.