Roadhouse Build thread
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bagman67
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rgand
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Thank you. By all means take any ideas that will help you with your own build(s).Rick said:
Thanks, Ian. One of those on the bottom of a clear plastic knob might do the trick.Bagman67 said:
I did order some of these to try. They might be the hot ticket if they're large enough to look right on there. If they don't do it, I'll attack those clear ones with some of that mirror paint. The specs show them at 1" across so it'll depend on how they look on.
49peterbilt
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:kewlpics:
Are you using Rosewood or Ebony for your fingerboard??
Are you using Rosewood or Ebony for your fingerboard??
rgand
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The full-sized Bourns 500K pots arrived. They feel just like the one I decided against because I didn't like the feel. They are almost free-wheeling with a slight metal on metal feel to them. On this build I'll use the mini pots I accidentally ordered (I ordered 2 a couple years ago to see what they were like and '2' turned out to be 2 packs of 6. It seems that the '6' they talked about wasn't the shaft size). They do have a good smooth feel to them, though. Next time I order pots I'll order CTS, I guess.
Speaking of pots, I ordered two 500K stacked concentric pots to try on something. I never used them because they have a center detent to them. I checked them with a multimeter and wide open, they're 500K and closed they're at 0. The detent is almost exactly 250K. I guess they'll work but I can't imagine why they would have a detent halfway up. That would take some getting used to. Maybe I'll try them on the Bobber as an experiment. Maybe not. Hell, I don't know. I need to get this one done first.
OK, enough rambling. I'm still waiting on the grounding lugs to start wiring.
Speaking of pots, I ordered two 500K stacked concentric pots to try on something. I never used them because they have a center detent to them. I checked them with a multimeter and wide open, they're 500K and closed they're at 0. The detent is almost exactly 250K. I guess they'll work but I can't imagine why they would have a detent halfway up. That would take some getting used to. Maybe I'll try them on the Bobber as an experiment. Maybe not. Hell, I don't know. I need to get this one done first.
OK, enough rambling. I'm still waiting on the grounding lugs to start wiring.
Cagey
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The last time I restocked pots I ordered a pile of CTS pots, and they've turned out to be just the opposite - too stiff for some users. I've had to replace pots twice for customers who were dissatisfied. Usually, the Bournes pots are the stiff (or smooth, depending on your desired feel) ones, the Alphas are so loose they feel worn, and the CTS are just right. So, who knows? It seems to come down to the grease they used to lubricate the armature. If you open up a stiff pot and clear most of it out, they feel better. Loose ones? I don't know, as I'm not sure what grease wouldn't be detrimental to operation over time.
There's essentially no power dissipation requirement in this application, so 2 watt pots would seem excessive, but they're mechanically large enough to take the abuse guitars see. Not sure smaller ones you have would last as long. I know they're a helluva lot easier to break on installation - be careful torquing on the mounting nut. It's easy to snap the threaded barrel.
There's essentially no power dissipation requirement in this application, so 2 watt pots would seem excessive, but they're mechanically large enough to take the abuse guitars see. Not sure smaller ones you have would last as long. I know they're a helluva lot easier to break on installation - be careful torquing on the mounting nut. It's easy to snap the threaded barrel.
rgand
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Thanks for that input, Kevin. I remember buying Bourns pots that were smoother than these. I don't mind a light touch to turn but they should feel smooth. These feel like they don't even have grease in them. Have they changed or something in recent times? I may take one apqart to see.
Anyway, if I break one of those little guys, I have a potload of them. :laughing11:
Anyway, if I break one of those little guys, I have a potload of them. :laughing11:
rgand
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All the necessary parts have arrived. I transferred the moiunting screw pilot holes to the body. I drilled the opposite corners first then used drill bits to keep the PG aligned while I drilled the others.
Then I drilled the holes in the PG to size and counter sunk them.
Next I mounted the PG and neck to make sure everything is as it should be. I put the knobs on to see how they look.
I also test drove the other neck (destined for the Bobber) to see if I wanted that one on instead but the RM/RM neck won out. The other one was nice but it added too much with two colors of wood instead of one.
For the next step, I wire it. After that, I'll cut the nut slots and mount the tone block springs. At that time, it's pretty much a done deal. String it up and adjust everything.
Then I drilled the holes in the PG to size and counter sunk them.
Next I mounted the PG and neck to make sure everything is as it should be. I put the knobs on to see how they look.
I also test drove the other neck (destined for the Bobber) to see if I wanted that one on instead but the RM/RM neck won out. The other one was nice but it added too much with two colors of wood instead of one.
For the next step, I wire it. After that, I'll cut the nut slots and mount the tone block springs. At that time, it's pretty much a done deal. String it up and adjust everything.
stratamania
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Good job :icon_thumright:
rgand
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Today I had some time and so I decided to prepare things for wiring.
I put a grounding wire underneath the bridge plate and ran that through the wiring hole into the pickup cavity. The instructions call for a ground wire soldered to a tone block claw but for cleanliness since I may not use a back cover, I used a soldered connector. I mounted the tension bar spring and one tone block spring. String sets 10-46 or smaller uses one spring and 11-48 or better gets two springs. I'll put 10's on this one so I located a good place to run a wire through the body, leaving room for the other spring claw if needed in the future. I took it apart again and drilled through into the pickup cavity. Then I ran the wire through and put everything back to make sure it all fits.
At this point I was ready to start soldering things up. Then I realized I hadn't decided on exactly what wiring I would do. I've done all kinds of different stuff: broadcaster wiring, series/parallel, coil splits. I have something fun in mind for the next couple guitars but never gave this one much thought. In the end I decided on simple: 1 tone, 1 volume, 3-way switch. Period. By then I was out of time so I printed off a wiring diagram and called it a day.
I have about 6 weeks before shoulder surgery so there's plenty of time to get this done without having to rush. Maybe Saturday I can get on it again.
I put a grounding wire underneath the bridge plate and ran that through the wiring hole into the pickup cavity. The instructions call for a ground wire soldered to a tone block claw but for cleanliness since I may not use a back cover, I used a soldered connector. I mounted the tension bar spring and one tone block spring. String sets 10-46 or smaller uses one spring and 11-48 or better gets two springs. I'll put 10's on this one so I located a good place to run a wire through the body, leaving room for the other spring claw if needed in the future. I took it apart again and drilled through into the pickup cavity. Then I ran the wire through and put everything back to make sure it all fits.
At this point I was ready to start soldering things up. Then I realized I hadn't decided on exactly what wiring I would do. I've done all kinds of different stuff: broadcaster wiring, series/parallel, coil splits. I have something fun in mind for the next couple guitars but never gave this one much thought. In the end I decided on simple: 1 tone, 1 volume, 3-way switch. Period. By then I was out of time so I printed off a wiring diagram and called it a day.
I have about 6 weeks before shoulder surgery so there's plenty of time to get this done without having to rush. Maybe Saturday I can get on it again.
BroccoliRob
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Hey, fresh that axe is lookin straight DANK. What does roadhouse mean in relation to dis project tho? Like Texas Roadhouse Steaktaurants (steak+restaurants)?
BigSteve22
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True that! Coming along nicely, Rob. :icon_thumright:Logrinn said:
rgand
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Thanks, guys.
The guitar needed to be called something. It's a bit smaller than the Telerauder and should be easier to wield when a crowd gets out of line at the local country bar/restaurant (roadhouse). :icon_biggrin:
It reminds me of the time I lived in a small adobe house across the parking lot from a country bar in Kingman. The outside wall facing the place had bullet marks in it. When an argument broke out in the parking lot, I just stayed away from the windows. Those boys knew how to disagree. :laughing11:
The guitar needed to be called something. It's a bit smaller than the Telerauder and should be easier to wield when a crowd gets out of line at the local country bar/restaurant (roadhouse). :icon_biggrin:
It reminds me of the time I lived in a small adobe house across the parking lot from a country bar in Kingman. The outside wall facing the place had bullet marks in it. When an argument broke out in the parking lot, I just stayed away from the windows. Those boys knew how to disagree. :laughing11:
BroccoliRob
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Sounds like a dope name, then - whatever gets you turnt, am i right? I might have the chance to try penguin meat this weekend and I am getting straight up PUMPED
