Neck relief on 10-16 neck?
- Thread starter johh
- Start date
It's no different than any other neck - there's no logical reason you would have different reliefs on different radii. Fender recommends .010 but many others including Erlewine and the guys at Pensa's shop recommend straight, no relief - and I've found that if my frets are very good, totally straight allows you to get really low without much buzzing. There is some personal preference involved though.
I have been playing for 35 years & I have always known that any guitar needs a certain amount of relief & this depends on a few variables. String size,neck radius, how the person plays. SRV used .013 Eric Johnson about .008. For strings to ring out from the upper registry evenly all the way down the neck thre has to be a certain amount of relief. Especially on a strat. I was just wondering if there was a good starting point on a 10-16 compound radius neck. But I have already been tinkering & have found that .009 is a good spot. No relief & open chords will not ring out like they should! I have never seen any pro, famous or not not use some relief! I use to work in music stores fixing guitar changing pickups & setting up it has been some years & I am not familar with this type of neck is all. I know I could figue it out I was just looking for a good starting spot from some one who knew!
http://fender.com/support/stratocaster.php
Neck Radius Relief
7.25" .012" (0.3 mm)
9.5" to 12" .010" (0.25 mm)
15" to 17" .008" (0.2 mm)
http://fender.com/support/stratocaster.php
Neck Radius Relief
7.25" .012" (0.3 mm)
9.5" to 12" .010" (0.25 mm)
15" to 17" .008" (0.2 mm)
mayfly
Epic Member
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Sorry to be contrary, but I've found that the old saw about needing a bit of relief is not really true - especially if you have nice leveled frets. I've always setup my Rickenbackers to have zero relief - absolutely flat. You can get nice low action and still keep that chime and ring - important for a 12 string.
With my W's, I've found that I need to have a tiny bit of relief (maybe about 0.05). But then again I don't level the frets on the W's - Just use them right out of the box. With leveled frets I imagine you can run it straight and be happy.
BTW, I play 10-46 wire and whack the thing pretty hard.
With my W's, I've found that I need to have a tiny bit of relief (maybe about 0.05). But then again I don't level the frets on the W's - Just use them right out of the box. With leveled frets I imagine you can run it straight and be happy.
BTW, I play 10-46 wire and whack the thing pretty hard.
Unwound G
Hero Member
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I agree with mayfly. A good fret level job on a Compound Radiused fretboard negates the need of a deliberate neck relief. Another important aspect to consider is the size of frets on the neck. The bigger the fret wires, the lesser neck relief is required after a good fret level.
mayfly
Epic Member
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- 8,834
I just thought about another thing - older guitars with old style compression (i.e. not dual rod) truss rods will need some relief so that you're not constantly adjusting it with changing weather. Dual rod truss rods (like on my Ricks and W's) are not as sensitive with humidity changes and therefore just plain don't move around.
I was reminded of this after setting up my bass player's Jazz Bass last winter, only for her to complain in the spring that there was a big ass back bow in the neck (oooops). After that, I put some relief in the neck so that she does not constantly bug me about it :evil4: :headbang:
I was reminded of this after setting up my bass player's Jazz Bass last winter, only for her to complain in the spring that there was a big ass back bow in the neck (oooops). After that, I put some relief in the neck so that she does not constantly bug me about it :evil4: :headbang:
+1 IME it depends on how much a player digs in and the overall construction of the neck. Manufacturer's specs, especially large manufacturers, have to err on the safe side due to variances. Two pieces of maple, cut from the same block, can act differently in two different guitars played by different players in different environments.mayfly said:
I generally start at dead flat with a good fret job. Give it a good three days to acclimate and then re-adjust. I rarely come in at manufacturers specs after a good level/crown/dress.
Keyser Soze
Senior Member
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- 206
Playing style is also a significant consideration. Someone who plays like Robin Trower (a very light touch for such a big sound) might be able to have a very low action without any relief. But if you are the kind of player who really bangs the strings around some relief may be necessary to get a reasonably low action.
A string in motion forms an ellipse, relief allows the neck to better conform to that type of shape - keeping the two as close as possible without any unnecessary contact.
I'd suggest starting out dead straight then play it for a week or so to let it settle in, then start adjusting the action downward to suit you tastes. If you cant get the action low enough without too much buzzing then you may need to add a little relief.
A string in motion forms an ellipse, relief allows the neck to better conform to that type of shape - keeping the two as close as possible without any unnecessary contact.
I'd suggest starting out dead straight then play it for a week or so to let it settle in, then start adjusting the action downward to suit you tastes. If you cant get the action low enough without too much buzzing then you may need to add a little relief.
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