Mahogany Jaguar *completed* Pics pg 5-6

tylereot

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Sorry, no Warmoth parts, but I think some of you might be interested in a Mahogany Jag build I'm doing.
Since the photo, we did the tummy cut and the forearm cut, and it's starting to look like a guitar!  Chamfer the edges tomorrow.
'bout time to talk to Ken at Roadhouse about The Sound.
The parts line up!

Parts-laid-out-8-13_zps66d74654.jpg
 
tylereot said:
Sorry, no Warmoth parts, but I think some of you might be interested in a Mahogany Jag build I'm doing.
Since the photo, we did the tummy cut and the forearm cut, and it's starting to look like a guitar!  Chamfer the edges tomorrow.
'bout time to talk to Ken at Roadhouse about The Sound.
The parts line up!

Parts-laid-out-8-13_zps66d74654.jpg


NIfty nifty!


I'm flying solo this weekend -  Mrs. Bagman and the bairn are visiting family out of town.  I can come over and help/provide moral support if you want.


Bagman
 
Baggy!  We're routing at 6:00 am tomorrow if you want to join us.  Give me a shout: 510 364-7696.
 
'bout time to talk to Ken at Roadhouse about The Sound.
The parts line up!

:icon_thumright:

Have winder, will travel. I have actually set aside parts for this project. Glad to see it on the bench!

 
Excellent, thanks, Ken.  It's going to need three pups, just so's ya knows...

With the Big Router, we did the roundover this morning, and finished the pool.  My pal REALLY dislikes doing a swimming pool route for the pickups.  Thinks it somehow isn't going to sound as good as having more wood in contact with the pickups.  Odd point of view for a guy with science degrees.
I'm also going to cut out the spaces between the body cavities.  Wiring is going to be complex enough without running wires through little holes.
Roundover-Done-9-13_zps91999351.jpg
 
There's never any wood in contact with the pickups, so tell him to STFU. But, do it under your breath, so he doesn't hear you. He clearly has a nice router <grin>

You definitely want to route channels rather than drill holes for your wireways. That whole design is a big enough pain in the ass without fighting with wire routing.
 
Cagey said:
There's never any wood in contact with the pickups, so tell him to STFU. But, do it under your breath, so he doesn't hear you. He clearly has a nice router <grin>

You definitely want to route channels rather than drill holes for your wireways. That whole design is a big enough pain in the ass without fighting with wire routing.

Amen.  I took that advice from you on the Bass VI build, and was very happy I did. 
I don't believe Mark has ever built a guitar with jag pickups, but he's done a lot of strat-type layouts.  He's used what looks like surgical tubing between the wood and the pickups.  He knows full well that the wood and pickups won't ever actually touch.
But then, I couldn't find a guitar in his shop with a pickguard, either.
 
A nifty neck alignment tool...

Neck-alignment_zps1ad5f02d.jpg


Unfortunately, the big 3/4" roundover bit took a little more off the back of the neck pocket than we figured, so it's a bit tight for a neck plate.  Going with the ferrule approach.
 
Finish work today, my favorite part.
We'll call this a beauty mark...
Body-rosewood-filler_zps3ed3ea00.jpg


Chocolate mess....
Body-chocolate-mess_zps364416a4.jpg


Sanded out the filler, layered up mahogany red and medium brown stain.  Sanded back just a touch.  Two coats of vinyl sealer, and this is the first sloppy coat of Behlen nitro, applied with a brush.
Body-first-coat-lacquer_zps07230a6d.jpg
 
Thanks, Hannaugh!  I'm starting to think: Copper pickguard, brass screws, and a matching copper plate/screws in the headstock.  A little steampunk.
 
Ya got my interest in this build too  :icon_thumright:

Keep them pic's coming .... please  :icon_biggrin:
 
I couldn't resist a quick mockup this morning.  Gotta tell ya, I LOVE this Behlen lacquer.  I've been brushing it on heavy, and the stuff just hardens up.  This is about ten coats.  I then level sanded it back a bit this morning, and am going to try thinning the lacquer down a little so it's not ALL about sanding out brush strokes when it's done.

Mockup-9-11-13_zps9a3cb703.jpg


This pickguard probably won't stay, but I got it cheap enough to just use it for a template.

Here's the back after about 10 coats...
Body-back-ten-coats_zps4d04cb2c.jpg
 
Looking good, Tyler.  I like how you've repurposed that mike boom stand.  Very clever!


Bagman
 
That's moving along nicely!

Since you don't have a color coat on there and you have 10 heavy coats of lacquer, you can afford to be a little more aggressive while level sanding. That surface looks pretty uneven, even though you're not trying to accentuate the finish with those pictures.

When you sand, you need to get it level before you put on the next coat(s). That means you need to sand with something flat, so you only hit the high points. Best thing is a common rubber sanding block, such as this...

Rubber-Sanding-Block-300.jpg

They're usually about $6-$7. You need that because if you try sanding by hand, the paper will follow the surface, and best case is you'll follow the flaws and not accomplish much other than removing the entirety of the finish rather than just the high spots. Worst case is you make the surface wavy. You won't see it while sanding, but by the time you get to polishing, it'll be very obvious. Also, be sure and get the hard rubber version of that block; they make a hard plastic one that's not suitable for this kind of work. It's designed more for flattening small drywall repairs.

Blocking it gets rid of the high spots created by the "orange peel" effect spraying sometimes creates, or brush strokes from brushing on a finish.

When you're sanding with the block or a D/A, things will start to look like this...

RemovingOrangePeel.jpg

The white spots are the low points. If you have a brushed finish, you'll see lines instead of spots. When you wipe the sanding dust off with some naphtha, you'll see where the depressions still shine, while the high points are dull, like this...

ReflectingOrangePeel.jpg

Another shot of the same thing...

OrangePeelVsLevel.jpg


This one shows the difference between halfway there and completely level

When blocking, you want to get to where the surface is uniformly dull. I use 320 grit, but that's just me. I like to go slower. Some guys use 220, which is probably fine enough. Of course, around the edges of the body where it's rounded over, you'll need to do that by hand, but be calm and smooth about it. The pressure you apply gets amplified by the smaller contact area, so it's very easy to take too much off.

Once you're happy with how much finish you have on there, you start doing the same thing, but with progressively finer grits of paper. Something along the lines of a 600/800/1000/1200/1500/2000 progression, then you can start with the buffing compounds, and finally a polish.

Nobody will believe you did the finish yourself.
 
Thanks, guys.
Yeah, Cagey, I went through all of that (and a LOT more) with the acrylic lacquer on the Bass VI.
By comparison, this Behlen stuff is hard as glass already.  It's also really cool in that every coat melts down the brush strokes of the previous coat.  With the acrylic lacquer on the bass VI, it just kept building upon previous flaws that had to be sanded out.
Body-polish-1_zps8a354d91.jpg
 
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