Homemade Half-moth Jazzmaster

Sorry for the lack of recent updates. Wife had surgery, so I haven't been able to make it down to the shop recently.

Last time I was there, I started the neck pocket rout. Followed the StewMac directions to the letter (wrapping the template with trim tape until the neck fit snugly) and still ended up with my first cut 1/8" wide on either side of the neck. Best we can figure is that the template flexed or slipped while making the cut, despite being clamped down. It is still kind of a mystery to me how it happened.

Fortunately the cut was only 3/16" deep. I'll be cutting a piece of yellowheart to glue into the bad rout, and will start over again next time. It was kind of a bummer....everything had been going perfectly until this mistake. Oh well. It's not unfixable at this point.
 
6stringer said:
Last time I was there, I started the neck pocket rout. Followed the StewMac directions to the letter (wrapping the template with trim tape until the neck fit snugly) and still ended up with my first cut 1/8" wide on either side of the neck. Best we can figure is that the template flexed or slipped while making the cut, despite being clamped down. It is still kind of a mystery to me how it happened.

This is quite normal. The StewMac template is HUGE, and IIRC, I needed over a dozen layers of tape to get a proper fit. What I did was put in a piece of masking tape and trim it neatly with an exacto knife, and then repeat, until I could get my neck to fit snugly. I then routed on scrap to test the fit, and added tape if necessary.
 
line6man said:
This is quite normal. The StewMac template is HUGE, and IIRC, I needed over a dozen layers of tape to get a proper fit. What I did was put in a piece of masking tape and trim it neatly with an exacto knife, and then repeat, until I could get my neck to fit snugly. I then routed on scrap to test the fit, and added tape if necessary. 

That's true experience. I'm not sure what StewMac was shooting for with that template, but it's way off standard. The Fender spec calls for 2 3/16" heel width, which is what Warmoth adheres to, even though Fender is notoriously loose about it. Fender's stuff is sloppier than teenage sex.
 
Okay, I know it has been a while. I had to take a break because of work, family, and honestly, I got pretty discouraged after screwing up the neck pocket. Everything had been going perfectly up to that point!

Well, the only thing to do was get back on the horse. So two weeks ago I started back in on the project. I decided to order an additional neck template from stewmac and double-up. @Line6Man - I agree....I had to wrap about 10 layers of tape until the neck was snug in the template. With two stacked templates, I was hoping to avoid any flex that might be happening to the templates during routing.

When I cut the pocket too wide, I had gone about halfway down the pocket cut. I still had another half of the pocket depth to work with. I stacked the templates, and used my Dad's clamping jig to hold everything as solidly as possible.

Success! In the following picture you can see that the top half of the pocket is too wide. The bottom half was VERY snug.....a little too snug! I used a small chisel and sanding stick to shape it until the neck fit perfectly.

cwb-052.jpg


Here you can see the gap between the body and the neck:

cwb-053.jpg


My plan is to use some type of filler to fill in the gap. Any suggestions? I'm considering wood putty, yellowheart sawdust mixed with titebond, or even epoxy, but having no experience with fixing this type of flub, I'm at a bit of a loss.

I also routed for the pickups. Two 'buckers. I've got some Golden Age overwounds to put in when the time comes. After the pickup rout, I took the two body halves apart and routed a wiring channel between the pickup routs and then to the control area. I had to carefully avoid the chambering as I did this.

cwb-054.jpg


Next steps:

1) Drill for inserts in the neck
2) Drill holes in the body for the neck screws. Anyone know how to do this so the holes will match up with the existing neck holes when the neck is in place? I thought of rubbing some pencil lead around the neck holes, slapping it on, then hoping the lead transfers to the body so I can get a fix on them, but that seems crude, and I would like to be as precise as possible.
3) Glue the body together
4) Drill for the bridge (VS100) inserts
5) Rout for a recessed bridge and trem springs.
6) Rout the control cavity
7) Rout the body edges and cut the contours
8) Use "some type of finish" on the body. Still not sure. Maybe tung oil then a finishing wax

Please give me any input you can. This is only my first and I have almost no idea what I'm doing.....but you guys sure help! Thanks!
 
6stringer said:
Here you can see the gap between the body and the neck:

cwb-053.jpg


My plan is to use some type of filler to fill in the gap. Any suggestions? I'm considering wood putty, yellowheart sawdust mixed with titebond, or even epoxy, but having no experience with fixing this type of flub, I'm at a bit of a loss.

I'd be REALLY careful about putting anything glue/putty/sticky stuff in that neck pocket.  I'd personally just leave it as is, but I know that might be nigh-unto intolerable if it's big enough.  Still, the neck pocket is the last place you want to have to dig & scrape out extra filler.

6stringer said:
Anyone know how to do this so the holes will match up with the existing neck holes when the neck is in place?

Ooooh! Ooh! (raises hand) I know! Pick me! Pick me!

1) Get 4 nails, cut the heads off, make them short enough to slip (pointy end out) into each of the screw holes.
2) wrap a bit of tape around the end of the nail that will go into the screw hole (to prevent damage & to keep it from getting stuck in there).
3) fit the neck into the pocket as precisely as possible, then press down firmly but gently, making a small indentation right under each hole.
4) use a drill press to make holes where each of the indentations are from the nails.
5) TAKE THE NAILS OUT OF THE NECK BEFORE YOU PUT IT TOGETHER!  :icon_jokercolor:

(I can't remember who posted it, but it's one of the many neat tricks I've learned on here).

6stringer said:
8) Use "some type of finish" on the body. Still not sure. Maybe tung oil then a finishing wax

Sounds like a good plan - that pretty wood deserves a nice oil finish!
 
@IHNPTS: ...and that's exactly what I did. Thanks for the tip!

Well, it's been a while since I've updated this thread. Things just seem to get busier all the time. Sorry folks.

But I HAVE made progress:

Routed out for the bridge pickup:
cwb-054.jpg


Routed out the wiring channel for the pickups:
cwb-054s.jpg


Glued up the body:
cwb-055.jpg


Meanwhile, with the body in glue-up, I installed brass inserts in the neck (Thanks Cagey for your info on doing this!):
cwb-055s.jpg


Here's a shot with the neck attached after the glue-up was done:
cwb-056.jpg


Routed for the Wilkinson VS100 bridge:
cwb-057.jpg

cwb-058.jpg


Routed the control cavity:
cwb-059.jpg


Routed the roundovers:
cwb-060.jpg


Heavy sanding in the contour areas:
cwb-061.jpg


This shot was taken after the first hand-sanding and Tru-Oil treatment:
cwb-062.jpg


Remaining items:
Finish body with Tru-Oil
Mount bridge and pickups
Drill holes for control knobs
Shape control cavity cover
Wiring
Initial fret leveling/crowning/beveling
Initial setup

 
That's really shaping up now; it must be very rewarding after all the work you've put in. Truly inspiring stuff.
 
Thanks Cagey and Pete! Oh, and I forgot to mention... the body is down to 4 lbs. 10 oz. Quite reasonable IMO.
 
Two nights ago, I sanded lightly with 400 grit and applied a thin layer of Tru-Oil and set it aside to harden a bit. Last night, I hit it with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and rubbed a good deal of Tru-Oil into it. The grain is really starting to pop out already:
cwb-063.jpg

cwb-064.jpg

cwb-065.jpg

cwb-066.jpg
 
Interesting.

Also, I notice there are no screw bosses in the control cavity. How are you planning to cover that?
 
That's easily fixed. Just glue in block to hold the screws or inserts.
 
Cagey said:
Interesting.

Also, I notice there are no screw bosses in the control cavity. How are you planning to cover that?

Darnit.....I was hoping you wouldn't notice. Yes, I still need to route a shallow surround for the control cavity cover plate. I was just anxious to see what the Tru-Oil would do to the wood. It's on my list for tonight....if I can get to it!  :icon_biggrin:
 
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