Green Paisley B-Bender Tele

mayfly said:
DangerousR6 said:
Prett cool mayfly, and Tonar is absolutely correct, Zinsser is awesome stuff. Got a can of it myself, but I got the 100% wax free... :icon_thumright:

The stuff that I used is 100% wax free as well... I'm guessing they changed the label.
:icon_thumright:, They may have. And if  I remember correctly it won't work with nitro unless it's the "dewaxed" kind...But seing as you are covering it with the paper I would guess it wouldn't matter.. :dontknow:
 
So is there going to be a huge backplate where the b-bender is? And that body looks really nice, too bad about covering it haha, but the paper will make this thing look so awesome.
 
rapfohl09 said:
So is there going to be a huge backplate where the b-bender is? And that body looks really nice, too bad about covering it haha, but the paper will make this thing look so awesome.

Well, I guess 'huge' is all in your personal experience  :glasses10:

Yea, the backplate will be large.  The body does look good dosen't it?  knots and all!  Oh well, soon to be paslefied.
 
Gentlepeople,

More photos of tonight's activities.  The heavy lifting is now done.  One note:  Alder is a lot harder than swamp ash!  Check out my router burn marks  :doh:

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Alfang said:
Dang May, that takes....them round things, you know, that bounce, oh yeh balls
Brass ones at that!


The B-Bender has officially made my project list.  After a little more router practice.. :laughing7:
 
ok folks, this is where we are at.

After routing, I level sanded the entire body:

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Then I applied another coat of sealer, this time getting all of the routed cavities as well:

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Then another level sand:

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and then the final coat of sealer

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The last coat did not absorb nearly as well as the previous coats - which tells me that the pores are getting filled.
The plan is to let this harden for a week or so, then do the final level sanding and roughen up the surface for the glue to adhere.  Then it will be time to put the paper on...
 
Well, I don't want to blow it by having the paper peel off because something was not dry....
 
mayfly said:
Well, I don't want to blow it by having the paper peel off because something was not dry....

I think Eric said someone understood that putting it into the oven is a good idea, put it but in a low temperature  :icon_jokercolor: :toothy12:  :laughing7:
 
Bullseye dries really quick, but I guess it can't hurt to wait... what kind of glue is correct? Wallpaper glue?(!?) Then the glue dries, then nitro over the top, huh.... The paper's already shiny, so a matte finish may be the way (is there such a thing as matte nitro? :icon_scratch:)
I love these whack ones the best, BTW. Any monkey can just screw together bits.... :guitaristgif:

The only problem, of course, is just how limiting Telecasters are musically:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDuee6blvj8&feature=related

2:35: J.S. Bach's version of "Autumn Leaves".... kids, don't try this without adult supervision.
 
stubhead said:
The only problem, of course, is just how limiting Telecasters are musically

I know:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCK7oHgmv7M
Bare Knuckle Pickups Piledriver: inspired on the original Broadcaster's pickups
 
stubhead said:
Bullseye dries really quick, but I guess it can't hurt to wait... what kind of glue is correct? Wallpaper glue?(!?) Then the glue dries, then nitro over the top, huh.... The paper's already shiny, so a matte finish may be the way (is there such a thing as matte nitro? :icon_scratch:)

I'm undecided between two different glues:  a tolex glue that I used on the test body, and good old Tightbond III that I used on the test board that I sent to Tonar.  The issue with the tolex glue is it has a very very aggressive tack.  This means that you better get it right the first time because there is no adjustment afterwards.  The tolex glue also stays a little soft, where the tighbond gets dry dry which I think will stabilize the paper better.  My original test block was done with Tightbond II, and it is very hard to get the paper off of it - even with a knife.

Speaking about the test body, the results from the boy test are in!  Here's a summary:

- wrapping the paper around the edge of the body is a bad idea - it will peel there.
- the flat surfaces hold up well, but the lacquer is prone to aggressive fingernail scratching
- it will peel on the flat, but you have to work at it to get it to peel.
- when the paper peels, the glue still holds the back of it - the paper just separates  :eek:
- the lacquer really stabilizes the whole thing and hardens up the paper nicely.

Regarding the gloss etc - I'm just going to leave that up to Tonar.  He's the man.
 
I really friggin like the body with just the sealer! This project is looking so awesome. Theres another strat around here that has a sealer coat on it and it looks so good. Imma have to do that with my next build.
 
My question was sort of - what glue under nitro? - if tolex glue "stays soft" it sounds like it might be releasing gases undeneath the nitro for some time, not a real swell scenario.  :eek:
Do the dyes on the paper not run under nitro? "Somewhere" - Vintage Guitar Magazine, maybe - I read that Bill Crook had some problems with the paper he was using for Brad Paisley's guitars, in that way.  :eek: :eek: I can track down the mag and quote if you want.
 
NonsenseTele said:
stubhead said:
The only problem, of course, is just how limiting Telecasters are musically

I know:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCK7oHgmv7M
Bare Knuckle Pickups Piledriver: inspired on the original Broadcaster's pickups
Daaaaaaaaaayum, that's pretty damn crunchy for a single coil...... :icon_thumright:

Now all he needs to add is a Floyd... :laughing7:
 
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