Koa Semi-hollow Carved-top Tele - Finished!

aguyinaustintx

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Photographs of the finished guitar appear at the end of this post. Here's an audio clip featuring the guitar, from the piece "Irreplaceable You" by The Brian Bhalla Trio:

Audio clip

Version 2 of this design has been completed, and can be seen at https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=31025

My design philosophy is that guitars are fundamentally wooden instruments. I use clear finishes and try to avoid the use of plastic parts. The pickup covers on this guitar, for instance, were replaced with wooden ones. The knobs and truss rod cover were made from wood as well. I can see why this isn't done on commercial guitars, as it adds a considerable amount of labor. A detailed description of the build follows.

Having a closed back complicated the build. Warmoth warned that it would not be easy. Semi-hollow Warmoth bodies do not seem to be designed with this in mind. Holes for the pots and switch had to be thinned from the inside for the controls to fit after the body was built -- Warmoth said they could not do this.

Warmoth does not offer necks with only the headstock finished, so the finish had to be done elsewhere. Wilkins Guitars applied an amazing finish, the term "perfection" comes to mind. Wilkins also converted the neck joint to use ferrules and machine screws, which I really liked. Warmoth's approach is to use different sized wood screws and a neckplate. The screws go in at an angle on the contour heel, and wind up looking misaligned.

David King (dknob.com) made the pickup covers, knobs, and TRC. He normally runs the grain of the covers 90 degrees to the neck for added strength, but he accommodated my request to run them with the neck grain. He matched the pau ferro board for this project. I thought about leaving them unfinished, but decided to finish them myself with spray can poly over a shellac seal coat. It took me several tries to get it right. Warming the poly by immersing the can in warm water did the trick, completely eliminating orange peel.

Sealed Bourns pots were used for the controls, as conventional pots could accumulate dust from the open f-holes. Because of the polymer casing, soldering components to the case was not an option. The tone and treble bleed components were left “floating” between the pots, sealed in a blob of 2-part polymer (pictured on page 2).

Archival non-acid paper was used to create a label, mounted inside the body. It was printed on a consumer ink-jet printer. Wood glue was used to affix the label, spread evenly and completely to avoid bubbles. The top f-hole was masked with blue tape before inserting the label. South Austin Music leveled and polished the frets and setup the guitar.

A Hiscox guitar case was purchased for the guitar. The case was a bit too long for the guitar, so a custom insert was built to fit snuggly between the end of the headstock and the edge of the case. The insert was made by wrapping self-adhesive velvet flocking liner around custom-cut Kaizen foam (pictured on page 3).

I like the way the guitar sounds unplugged as well as amplified. It sounds more like a solid body guitar than a Gibson ES 335, but not exactly like a solid body. I suspect that's because the 335's laminate top is more resonant than Warmoth's carved top, and because the 335 has more internal volume. Unplugged, it's loud enough for unaccompanied practice. Amplified, it can be made to sound twangy on low-gain settings, and has a nice growl on distortion settings. The 0.015mF tone capacitor has a varied sweep to it, from a neutral sound to a midrange hump to a high-cutoff effect. The volume control has an advanced treble bleed circuit, similar to the one used on Fender American Telecasters. There is no treble roll-off as the volume is turned down. The schematic is shown on page 2.

I am very happy with the end result, the effort seemed well worth it.
 

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tenor.gif
 
It turns out there isn't enough vertical clearance inside the body to install the tall Switchcraft 3-way switch that's normally found in Gibsons. If it could be installed, it should just barely clear the bottom. The L version of the switch doesn't have enough thread height. Countersinking the switch hole from underneath would do it, but there's no control cavity opening cut into the back. Countersinking from the top won't work, because that would cut through the koa veneer. Simple -- just route the hole from inside the closed body! ;) I have a plan. Any guesses?
 
Pull a dremel bit, shaft-first, through the switch hole from inside the body, and then get it in the collet?
 
Use the "L"-shaped bracket switch, along with what's sometimes called a "reach nut", which is basically what gets used on most Les Pauls. Looks like this...

w-sc-w05_main1.png

It's used to compensate for thicker tops, such as you'd find when using a wood top like on a rear route. Buys you about 3/16" more top thickness than you'd see when mounting on something like pickguard material. They're available in several finishes, so matching to other hardware isn't a problem. Kinda requires a special tool to tighten due to its toothed edge rather than the typical hex shape of nuts. These...

Adjustable-Guitar-Toggle-Switch-Wrench-SAE-Metric.jpg

...work best, although they're a tad pricey for a one-time use. Some people use these tools...

ESP_Multi_Spanner.jpg

...which work and are inexpensive. Just gotta be careful with them. You could mutilate the nut or scratch your finish.

 
Correct! Cudos on guessing the "mount the Dremel cutting wheel from the inside" solution. Nerve wracking, but it worked as planned. BTW, the issue wasn't the thickness of the top. It was not having enough clearance inside the body to angle the 3-way into position.

Here are some of the things I learned:
-Drilling backwards with a countersink bit will make a hole larger without any splintering
-Practicing on a scrap bit of wood of the same species helps
-Use a good cutting wheel. I used one from duragrit.com
-The Dremel must be held very steady, with one hand anchored on the body
-Keeping the countersink level is not easy

 

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If you end up needing to do it again you could also run a string through the hole and tie it to whatever part you need to pull into the hole, rather than try fidgeting it in there with your hemostat or whatever tool you're using there.
 
Thanks, Bagman7. I considered using a long length of heat-shrink tubing over the end of the spindle to fish it through, but the hemostat was quite easy given the proximity to the f-hole. If the hole was farther away, I would have gone with heat-shrink. Heat-shrink tubing can be made to grasp the end of a smooth shaft or spindle, whereas a string might slip off.
 
The pots have the same installation issue as the 3-way. The regular shaft ones are too short for the top (about 0.3" thick near the holes), and the long shaft ones are too tall to fit inside the body. Time to repeat the countersink-from-the-inside trick. This time, I used a Dremel Rotary Tool Drill Press to keep the countersink level. FWIW, the Dremel drill press tool is not nearly as accurate as a real drill press, although it's more accurate than hand-held work. I had to cut a few mm off the end of the cutting tool shaft, because like the long shaft pots, it was too long to fit inside the body.

I set the countersink depths so that the top is about 0.15" thick around the holes. This was just enough to for the regular size Bourns 95 series pots to fit. The 95 series are as smooth as butter. More importantly, they are completely sealed. This is important in a guitar with f-holes, since there's nothing to prevent dust from accumulating on the pots.

I'm still glad I went with a closed-back body, but it has definitely added complexity.

Next up, waiting for a few parts to arrive, including the wood pickup covers by dknob.com.

mbhalla-countersink.png
 

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Wow! That guitar is going to look fantastic!

I'd have to have the back opened for easier access, but I see why you wouldn't want it.
 
I guess I can see it. While wiring gets more difficult without easy access to a control cavity (production and maintenance shops would hate it), how often do you need it? Hopefully, only once - when the guitar is assembled. For years past that, what do you have? Basically a deliberate, organized blemish.
 
Exactly, Cagey. This is my first build with f-holes. In a previous project, I replaced the plastic control cover with one made from wood that I fabricated from peghead overlay veneers from StewMac to reduce the "blemish" effect. Also used magnets as fasteners.

The f-holes have been a challenge, and I haven't yet inserted the electronics. I'm using Bourn pots, smaller than most, so hopefully that won't be too difficult. Famous last words, right?
 
The wood pickup covers, knobs, switch tip, and TRC came in, and wow! Just wow. David (dknob.com) does great work. I requested unfinished pau ferro (morado) to match the fretboard. David purchased a pau ferro board to try and match the fretboard. As a special order, David ran the pickup cover grain lines parallel to the neck to match the fretboard's grain direction. Normally the grain goes perpendicular to the neck.


 

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