Oh, yes I did. (Neck choice complete, too.)

[vikingred]

THE NECK

So, here is what I came up with for the neck.  Remember it's getting a black FR trem:

Style: Stratocaster®
Construction: Modern Construction
Scale: 25-1/2 in.
Neck Wood:

    Neck Meat™: Maple
    Fretboard Wood: Ebony (Black)
    Unique Choice Fretboard: FBXXXX

Right/Left: Right Handed
Nut Width: 1-11/16"
Neck Profile: Fatback
Radius: 10-16" compound
# of Frets: 22
Fret Size: GD6150 (Gold Color)
Tuner Ream: Gotoh/Grover (13/32" 11/32")
Inlays:

    Inlays: Cream Face Dots
    Side Dots: White Side Dots

Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: R3 Floyd Prep w/ Mounting Holes
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Finish: Vintage Tint Gloss
Scalloping: Full Scallop

Thinking out loud: 

1. Going to do a Fender waterslide decal on headstock (I know, I know).  Should be okay shooting/sanding layers of Mohawk Pre-Catalyzed Clear Lacquer - Gloss on top of the Warmoth vintage gloss finish to make the decal disappear, YES?

2. Maybe would be better/cooler/smarter/more badass to use black vintage tuners instead of Gotoh/Grovers since it's getting a FR locking nut anyway?

3. The old FR R3/R4 debate.  I have both on other guitars, and I can't tell much difference.  They are both made for the 1-11/16" nut width, best choice is R3 just because I hate it when either E string is any bit too close to the edge of the board.

Thanks for thoughts and comments.  Cagey!  :dontknow:

 

[Logrinn]

Yes, black tuners instead of chrome would definitely be better, I think, especially since you're going with gold frets.

 

[Cagey]

Personally, I like hardware finishes to match. If it's gold, make it all gold. If it's black, make it all black, etc. Mixing and matching colors and designs changes the description from "Custom Build" to "Partscaster", which is at least slightly derogatory and the reason most home builds only go for 25%-30% of their build price.  But, that's just me.

Also, if it were me, I'd forgo the locking nut. There are no good arguments for using one these days and several reasons not to. Mr. Rose invented those back in the days before locking tuners and low-friction nuts existed, so they were a necessary evil if you wanted to use a vibrato bridge and stay in tune past its first use. Now, the ultimate setup would have an LSR nut and some locking tuners of some sort. That way you don't have the mechanical, comfort and aesthetic drawbacks of the locking nut. It also eliminates the need for "micro-tuners" on the bridge itself, which simplifies its design and fabrication, as well as substantially lowering its cost by half or more.

So, I guess what I'm advocating there is not even using a Floyd Rose design bridge unless you like the appearance of that much mechanical gimcrackery at the bridge end of the guitar and enjoy having to carry tools around just to spend 2 or 3 times as much effort changing strings. There are many bridges available now with two-point knife-edge fulcrums, so return to neutral (reliable tuning) isn't the issue most traditional vibrato bridges present.

The only argument left for the Floyd design any more doesn't even have anything to do with the Floyd design - range of motion. Floyds typically can dive to the point where the strings are practically falling off the neck, as well as pull up a whole step or more. But, that's not the Floyd giving you that, it's the cavity routing it's mounted in. You simply need clearance to rock the bridge that far. So, you find a luthier who's not afraid to do woodwork, and modify the body to give you that clearance with a simpler bridge. Of course, if you do that, you lose the initial cost savings a simpler bridge brings to the party, but on the plus side, life gets a whole lot easier moving forward.

 

[Nando Vallart]

Correct me if I'm mistaken Cagey, been 10 years since I've used a vibrato bridge, but I think as the Floyd's nut is locken you can pitch down untill the strings are lousy... without it, I get the impression that if you pitch down too much the strings can go out of the nut, specially a roller nut... Am I wrong?

 

[vikingred]

Correct me if I'm mistaken Cagey, been 10 years since I've used a vibrato bridge, but I think as the Floyd's nut is locken you can pitch down untill the strings are lousy... without it, I get the impression that if you pitch down too much the strings can go out of the nut, specially a roller nut... Am I wrong?

This was my first thought.  I like to do some crazy whammy stuff once in a while, and it's likely that without a locking nut, strings would/could pop out.  And, I grew up on Floyd's, using the tools, etc.  Love the fine tuners on the bridge.  Rarely break strings.  So it's not an issue for me.

As for matching hardware, it will all be black.  But there are no options for black frets at Warmoth.  So silver/nickel colored frets are standard, but the EVO gold frets are pretty subtle, and I think would pop/blend more with the golden brown koa top.  Standard silver frets wouldn't be a terrible distraction/clash as they are so mainstay common but I do think gold would look better than silver even with black hardware.  I disagree on the parts-caster look due to gold frets, Cagey.  Your post above somewhat contradicts what you said in this post.

Pics of gold frets on ebony board from that thread:

Need to try to photoshop something together.  But may be hard to find full ebony neck with gold frets.
Just trying to get this right.

 

[Cagey]

I didn't mean the gold frets would make it look like a partscaster, I meant if you had black tuners with gold hardware other places, like the bridge, for instance. For some reason, I had it in my head that everything else was gonna be gold.

On the Strat of mine you pointed out, everything was gold.

As for strings falling out of nut slots, the fear is greater than the reality. I've never had it happen.

If you want a full ebony neck with gold frets, they will make one. Pricey little rascals, but just sublime. That would look great on that body. I have one here that in retrospect I wish I'd have put gold frets on. It's going on a guitar that like yours, has all black hardware but the body is finished in such a way that gold frets would have been a nice touch.

 

[swarfrat]

That's gonna look so sweet routed for a Mahler,sustainiac and 13 pin jack!! Kidding

 

[vikingred]

How would a roasted maple neck with vintage gloss look?  Can't find any examples.  I would order it roasted maple, vintage gloss, ebony (black) fretboard.  Would that work?

 

[Cagey]

I doubt you'll find any finished roasted Maple as roasting it is usually done so it doesn't need finishing. But, out of a curiousity born of the surprise roasted Swamp Ash gave when clear coated, I rubbed some naphtha on a roasted Maple part I have here and I've attached it for your review. As it works out, wetted roasted Maple sorta looks like raw Maple with a vintage tint finish.

 

[vikingred]

Ok the latest iteration of neck ideas.  The cost is the same as the body, about eight bills including shipping.  Yowch.

Style: Stratocaster®
Construction: Modern Construction
Scale: 25-1/2 in.
Neck Meat:

    Shaft Wood: 3A Birdseye Maple
    Fretboard Wood: Ebony (Black)
    Unique Choice Fretboard: FBXXXX

Right/Left: Right Handed
Nut Width: 1-11/16"
Neck Profile: Fatback
Radius: 10-16" compound
# of Frets: 22
Fret Size: GD6150 (Gold Color)
Tuner Ream: Vintage Style (11/32")
Inlays:

    Inlays: Cream Face Dots
    Side Dots: White Side Dots

Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: R3 Floyd Prep w/ Mounting Holes
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Finish: Vintage Tint Gloss
Scalloping: Full Scallop

 

[vikingred]

I doubt you'll find any finished roasted Maple as roasting it is usually done so it doesn't need finishing. But, out of a curiousity born of the surprise roasted Swamp Ash gave when clear coated, I rubbed some naphtha on a roasted Maple part I have here and I've attached it for your review. As it works out, wetted roasted Maple sorta looks like raw Maple with a vintage tint finish.

I am custom ordering the neck from Warmoth.  So, I can select roasted maple and vintage gloss.  Just wondering if the vintage gloss lacquer will penetrate and stick?  Also looking at 3A birdseye maple and vintage gloss--with the black ebony fretboard in either case.  Hard to imagine which would look better installed on that body, though.

 

[Cagey]

Vintage tint is used on regular Maple because the wood is normally almost white and the effect sought is that of aged lacquer, which normally turns an amber color.

Judging by what the naphtha did to the roasted Maple here, if you did decide to finish a piece of roasted Maple I suspect it would come out kinda dark using a vintage tint gloss. Might be better off with a clear gloss. But, not having done or seen either one, it's tough to say. Either way, the wood is still Maple, so whatever finish works with raw Maple will work with roasted Maple. The roasted stuff is just lighter and not prone to distortion due to environmental changes.

I will say this - that roasted Maple will burnish up super-slick. You'd be hard pressed to find a neck that feels/plays as nicely.

In any event, there's little point in spending the money on roasted Maple if you're going to put a finish on it. Not that it's terribly expensive, but it is more than regular ol' hard rock Maple.

As for matching that body, If I wanted a finish, I think I'd go with clear over regular Maple neck meat and a black Ebony 'board. Also, you don't need to "unique choice" black Ebony. It's all just black. I don't know why they even offer the choice.

 

[Cagey]

Something else that might look good on that body would be one of the new Brazilian Ebony necks. For instance, this one is African (black) Ebony over Brazilian Ebony...

Only $275 to start. Burnish that baby up front and back, install some gold frets and threaded inserts and that would be a helluva thing. How many kids on your block have an all Ebony neck?  :laughing7:

 

[Nando Vallart]

I don't think that you need to vintage tint it, the roasted maple is already in the color you would get with it...
It's like doing the work doubled to have the same results...

 

[Nando Vallart]

And I would definetely would it:

http://www.warmoth.com/Showcase/ShowcaseNeck.aspx?Body=1&Spotlight=1&Path=Spotlight&i=SN20944#.WDG7rrIrLIU

 

[vikingred]

Something else that might look good on that body would be one of the new Brazilian Ebony necks. For instance, this one is African (black) Ebony over Brazilian Ebony...

Only $275 to start. Burnish that baby up front and back, install some gold frets and threaded inserts and that would be a helluva thing. How many kids on your block have an all Ebony neck?  :laughing7:

Dude, that looks awesome.  Stuck on getting a full scallop though, and don't want to send out for frets, so I need to order from Warmoth.  Don't see those available for custom order.  :icon_scratch:

 

[Cagey]

They must have just run out. I knew it had to be a custom build, so I checked the builder yesterday. Oh, well. If you really like the idea, maybe give them a call to find out when more will become available.

 

[vikingred]

FINAL NECK CHOICE - JUST ORDERED.

Style: Stratocaster®
Construction: Modern Construction
Scale: 25-1/2 in.
Neck Wood:

    Shaft Wood: Mahogany
    Fretboard Wood: Ebony (Black)
    Unique Choice Fretboard: FB2400

Right/Left: Right Handed
Nut Width: 1-11/16"
Neck Profile: Fatback
Radius: 10-16" compound
# of Frets: 22
Fret Size: GD6150 (Gold Color)
Tuner Ream: Vintage Style (11/32")
Inlays:

    Inlays: Cream Face Dots
    Side Dots: White Side Dots

Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: R3 Floyd Prep w/ Mounting Holes
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Finish: Clear Gloss
Scalloping: Full Scallop

Reasonable price.  Should be stellar on that body.  I like a warmer tone (better Mahogony than maple, eh). Ordered the black FR and the tuners as well.  Prolly 5-6 weeks I'd estimate - or a lot longer.  Which means I get to stare at the body for hours and grope it.

 

[rgand]

That should look really good. Nice selection. Looking forward to seeing that.

 

[Cagey]

I agree - gonna be very sharp!