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First Warmoth build, I think I'm going to need some help

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TimesNewRoman

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Parts finally arrived- right when promised. That was a tough 5 weeks though and Aarons video came right when I needed it.
Here are the particulars:

7/8 S-Style Guitar Body

Construction Chambered
Core Wood Walnut
Lam Top Wood Flame Koa
Control Cavity Rear Rout
Bridge Rout Type Hardtail
Binding and Edge Decorations Dark Wood Laminate Accent Line
Paint Category No Paint



7/8 Warhead Guitar Neck

Construction Modern
Shaft Wood Walnut
Fretboard Wood Purpleheart
Neck Back Profile Standard Thin
Fretboard Radius 10" - 16" Compound
Binding None
Fret Size & Material 6105 - Narrow & Tall (Nickel)
Inlay Shape Premium Dots
Inlay Material Abalone
Side Dots Abalone Side Dots
Headstock veneer to match the lam top koa
String Nut GraphTech Black TUSQ XL
Finish None

Hardware (everything black)

Hipshot hardtail bridge
Hipshot locking staggered closed tuners
Black barrel knobs
SD Vintage P 90’s

I know my fret choice will not be popular around here, but I hate fret work and didn't want to battle hard SS. What I didn't expect was that the neck needs no fretwork. Warmoth got it nearly perfectly level out of the box- 1/3 of two frets had TINY rocks. So I could have gotten SS. But it will be OK, it will be lightly used.

My original plan was to shellac the body and use polymerized Tung oil on the neck, but Warmoth stamped right on the neck that the warranty was void if the neck was not finished and oil finish doesn't count. Say what ? Is this peculiar to walnut ? Anyone know why the are they discouraging an oil neck finish ?

I'm going to try to drop some pics here :

unfinished front.jpgback.jpgmin spirits finish.jpg
The last one is "finished" with mineral spirits.
 
TimesNewRoman said:
Is this peculiar to walnut ? Anyone know why the are they discouraging an oil neck finish ?
Click to expand...
No, that applies to all woods that require a finish. As oil finishes can vary in type, thickness - coats applied etc there is a likelihood that it may be insufficient to meet Warmoth's warranty requirements of a hard finish.

The above said and this is not a recommendation, many, including myself, have used Tru-Oil without issue. But we do so as a personal choice, knowing about the warranty caution.

A fine set of parts you have.

Edit, here is a link with further information.
 
Last edited:
Wow, looks great! I wouldn't have expected to like the koa/purpleheart combo but it's very nice
 
Looking awesome, and yes walnut needs a finish. That being said, what good is a warranty anyway? Has anyone ever sent a defective neck back to warmoth? How many years before an unfinished defects? I am not endorsing going unfinished, just asking what sort of defects to expect.
 
Thanks ! Compliments from the likes of stratmania, ragamuffin, Rick and teleme01 mean something. I feel better that I'm on a good path.
Bruce et al, I had concern that the abalone with the wierd fretboard wood would look cheesy but I think it works. I'm working on some koa scrap experimenting with dyed shellac (keta powder), and I came up with a plum color (3 parts red one part blue) that I think will integrate the koa to the purpleheart a little better.

I'm going to press on with the oil neck because its easy, fool proof and feels the best. Rag's oil on walnut is so beautiful. I can't think of a scenerio where I would make a warranty claim anyway.
 
TimesNewRoman said:
Thanks ! Compliments from the likes of stratmania, ragamuffin, Rick and teleme01 mean something. I feel better that I'm on a good path.
Bruce et al, I had concern that the abalone with the wierd fretboard wood would look cheesy but I think it works. I'm working on some koa scrap experimenting with dyed shellac (keta powder), and I came up with a plum color (3 parts red one part blue) that I think will integrate the koa to the purpleheart a little better.

I'm going to press on with the oil neck because its easy, fool proof and feels the best. Rag's oil on walnut is so beautiful. I can't think of a scenerio where I would make a warranty claim anyway.
Click to expand...
Those guys are quite knowledgeable. Also, Stratamania has relocated back to his homeland in a bid to "reignite" the dormant skiffle craze.
 
Gorgeous. :cool:
I have a Soloist project with a koa top that I've barely started (need to complete two other guitars first).
 
If I remember correctly he may have even mentioned a rudimentary idea he had for a skating production called "Skiffle on Ice"
 
Finally able to start this. Had to finish these first :
tele 335.jpg

Started with 2 coats of black keta dye in water:
keta dye.jpg
Nice and uniform, but yikes, doesn't look like koa anymore. I am slightly comforted by the words of Ragamuffin "Trust the process". After 2 hours of hand sanding, it didn't look much different. Time for a tool purchase: cheap Skil random orbital sander that works great. Twenty minutes with this and 120, 180 and 220 grit abralon got me here :
Dye sanded.jpg
Which after a solar cure resin pore fill and sand back @ P220 looks like this :
first porefiller.jpg
Now I'm pondering whether to sand back more of the dye to get closer to the original koa look. Would appreciate advice whether I should do this or press on from here.

Dumbass question : There is a little sticker on the left side of the floor of the neck pocket- it has some thickness. Should I remove that or could it be some kind of shim that Warmoth added ?
 
TimesNewRoman said:
Finally able to start this. Had to finish these first :
View attachment 61776

Started with 2 coats of black keta dye in water:
View attachment 61777
Nice and uniform, but yikes, doesn't look like koa anymore. I am slightly comforted by the words of Ragamuffin "Trust the process". After 2 hours of hand sanding, it didn't look much different. Time for a tool purchase: cheap Skil random orbital sander that works great. Twenty minutes with this and 120, 180 and 220 grit abralon got me here :
View attachment 61778
Which after a solar cure resin pore fill and sand back @ P220 looks like this :
View attachment 61779
Now I'm pondering whether to sand back more of the dye to get closer to the original koa look. Would appreciate advice whether I should do this or press on from here.

Dumbass question : There is a little sticker on the left side of the floor of the neck pocket- it has some thickness. Should I remove that or could it be some kind of shim that Warmoth added ?
Click to expand...
Take sticker off, it's not a shim. I am not a fancy top person, but I think it looks good now. Maybe wait for raggamuffin or someone else that has done those with success.
 
Looks great! I would not have thought to put dye on a koa top, but after the sanding and resin it looks really good!
Yes, the sticker should come off (y)
 
I ordered in mid January and there was no Koa on the site. I really wanted it for this next (and last) build. I grew up in Hawaii and wanted to hold in my hands wood that had sprung from the loins of my homeland. So I had email exchange with Spike and begged him to scrounge around the shop and see if any stray nice pieces were laying around. Spike came through but the upcharge was ferocious. All I can say is that all of you who snagged one from recent release got amazing deals with stunning finishes.

I'm hoping I don't regret deciding to finish it myself, the Warmoth finishes are so good.
 
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