neck radius
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SustainerPlayer
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line6man said:
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Ace Flibble
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"There is no best... but get this one because it's the best"? :icon_scratch:
If getting the lowest action is what concerns you then you need to pick a radius which matches the type of bridge you're going to use and you need to select fretwire which matches how you like to play.
For example, a tune-o-matic bridge works best with a 12" radius fretboard, Floyd Rose systems use either 10" or 14" depending on year/brand and Strat-style bridges which have six separate saddles can be adjusted to fit anything but tend to be easiest to set up with 9.5" or close to it. Big frets can make faster play feel easier as your fingers don't come into contact with the fretboard wood, but in theory you may need a little more bow to the neck which can make the action at the higher frets higher than you may like. Low frets are very easy to get a low action with with a straight neck, but you might not like the slower feel if your play style requires a faster, lighter touch.
Bear in mind too that the string gauge and tuning you'll use will play some part in restricting how low your action can go. Bigger strings need more room to clear the frets in front of them and usually the lower you tune the more space is needed too. .009 strings tuned to E Standard is easy to get very low action with while .012 strings tuned to Drop B is considerably harder (not impossible, but harder).
So there's lots of things to think about, more so than just the radius. For what it's worth, the guitars I have that have the lowest action are all 12" radius. As it so happens, my Warmoth necks with compound radius boards all have what I find to be uncomfortably inconsistent action, too high in some places and too low in other places. But then, many people here will tell you that the compound radius boards are the best option possible.
Ultimately you need to go with whatever you are most comfortable with. Speed and precision in guitar playing are both products of comfort. If you are in any doubt about what to go for, go with whatever is closest to your current favourite guitars, or whatever you've played on for the longest time. If you're used to normal Strats, that's probably a 9.5" radius.
If getting the lowest action is what concerns you then you need to pick a radius which matches the type of bridge you're going to use and you need to select fretwire which matches how you like to play.
For example, a tune-o-matic bridge works best with a 12" radius fretboard, Floyd Rose systems use either 10" or 14" depending on year/brand and Strat-style bridges which have six separate saddles can be adjusted to fit anything but tend to be easiest to set up with 9.5" or close to it. Big frets can make faster play feel easier as your fingers don't come into contact with the fretboard wood, but in theory you may need a little more bow to the neck which can make the action at the higher frets higher than you may like. Low frets are very easy to get a low action with with a straight neck, but you might not like the slower feel if your play style requires a faster, lighter touch.
Bear in mind too that the string gauge and tuning you'll use will play some part in restricting how low your action can go. Bigger strings need more room to clear the frets in front of them and usually the lower you tune the more space is needed too. .009 strings tuned to E Standard is easy to get very low action with while .012 strings tuned to Drop B is considerably harder (not impossible, but harder).
So there's lots of things to think about, more so than just the radius. For what it's worth, the guitars I have that have the lowest action are all 12" radius. As it so happens, my Warmoth necks with compound radius boards all have what I find to be uncomfortably inconsistent action, too high in some places and too low in other places. But then, many people here will tell you that the compound radius boards are the best option possible.
Ultimately you need to go with whatever you are most comfortable with. Speed and precision in guitar playing are both products of comfort. If you are in any doubt about what to go for, go with whatever is closest to your current favourite guitars, or whatever you've played on for the longest time. If you're used to normal Strats, that's probably a 9.5" radius.
S
swarfrat
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compound is cool - now if we just had our choice of radii. I really want to try a 7.25 - 10" compound.
thank you for the replies. i have a warmoth strat neck with the compound radius, i really like it but it is inconsistent high around third to seventh fret, buzz around twelve to fourteenth fret drives me crazy. that is why I wonder if a straight radius would be better,plus I do a lot of bends
Cagey
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Sounds like you need fretwork, not a different radius. Even on new guitars/necks, the frets are rarely perfect. As they wear from use, things get worse. Of course, the closer you have the strings to the fret (lower action), the sooner and more easily the problem shows up.
llmtelecaster
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I was using the compound radius necks for a while but I've gone back to using straight 9.5's on my strats. It's what feels most comfortable to my hands. And I don't do any crazy 2-1/2 bends or anything so the straight radius works just fine for me. No problems fretting out. Not knocking the compound radius, but it just isn't for me anymore.
Jumble Jumble
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You can do a 2 1/2 bend on a 9.5 anyway. Gilmour does 2 steps on a 7.5 all the time.
Neo Fender
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With a Warmoth compound radius (10" - 16") neck, is it possible for the neck to be thicker at the nut vs. at the heel?. In other words with regards to dimension, does a compound radius neck begin with a 10" radius and less "shoulder" is removed as the CNC milling machine moves toward the heel, or (for example, a rosewood neck) more slab is allowed at the nut... Know what I sayin' ? :tard:
Simply, on a c-shape compound radius neck, what's the thickness at the first fret and twelth fret?
Simply, on a c-shape compound radius neck, what's the thickness at the first fret and twelth fret?
Neo Fender
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I did. Differences in radius were not listed as a factor, so I'll assume it isn't. Thanks.
Cagey said:
Strat Avenger
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Jumble Jumble said:
You certainly can, however sting action must be higher than with a flatter or compound radius.
The whole idea is playing comfort and low action while retaining the ability for wide bends.
I like my compound radius neck, however I get just as much enjoyment on my straight-12s.
Jumble Jumble
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Oh I see. Yeah, I don't have a particularly low action on my 9.5s. I guess it's average.
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