Homemade Half-moth Jazzmaster

I see. That's fine. It's just a bit unusual to start finishing when there's routing to be done that will leave exposed edges.
 
Cagey said:
Interesting.

Also, I notice there are no screw bosses in the control cavity. How are you planning to cover that?

Here ya go!
cwb-067.jpg
 
Beautiful!

Now, if you have an aircraft bit handy, you can drill the claw mounting screw holes relatively flat, which would lower the spring height and allow you to countersink the trem cover as well. Or, maybe just bend the claw's rear flange so it sits lower. Of course, you'll have to make yet another a template, but how cool would that be?
 
Cagey said:
Beautiful!

Now, if you have an aircraft bit handy, you can drill the claw mounting screw holes relatively flat, which would lower the spring height and allow you to countersink the trem cover as well. Or, maybe just bend the claw's rear flange so it sits lower. Of course, you'll have to make yet another a template, but how cool would that be?

:eek:ccasion14: I was thinking the same thing! At least this template would be a lot easier than a custom shape. Darned thing took me almost an entire day to get right. Of course I should have planned the control cavity a little better, with some flare outs to support the cover screws. Oh well, just another lesson learned from this project!

As an aside, I scored a nice 8/4 piece of cherry and a nice board of flame maple the other day. I'm already thinking about the next project. I'm thinking a carved-top LP....but that may be a bit too ambitious for a relatively new builder like myself. Thoughts?
 
Cagey said:
Now, if you have an aircraft bit handy, you can drill the claw mounting screw holes relatively flat...

Just for clarification Cagey, do you mean a really long bit? Or is there some tool that can drill around corners, so the hole is perfectly squared?
 
Outside of a dental drill motor, I don't know of any that will get tight enough (in this application) to drill perpendicular. Too much head on them. But, an aircraft bit is essentially just a really long (typically about 12", anything less is not helpful) twist drill where only the last 3" or so are fluted. It allows you to lay the drill motor down so its body doesn't force a higher angle of attack, as the motor's not hitting anything.

They're not terribly expensive, and are handy for other things as well. For instance, if you need to drill or open up clearance holes between pickup or control cavities. They look like this...

7011815_hr4c.jpg

... probably not the best picture, but you get the idea.
 
Ah...perfect. Thanks Cagey! Now I have another excuse to go to the hardware store!

I learn something new every day here.  :sign13:
 
Depends how studly your hardware store is. Chances are you're going to have a hard time finding them in any kind of retail place, unless they specialize in that sort of tool. You're better off ordering online, but watch the prices close! You don't need Cobalt or anything like that; HSS is fine for woodwork. If they're charging any more than $10/ea, they're way off.
 
Good for you! I'm glad that worked out. Especially without the waiting! <grin>
 
I know it's been a while...so sorry!

I finished the build on Thanksgiving Day, but have been too gosh darn busy to post anything.

Anyway, here's the updates:

Got the control and pickup cavities foiled up
cwb-067.jpg


Soldering gear. I used a double push-pull pot arrangement to split out the individual coils and switch from series to parallel. The soldering took forever, and was really tedious.
cwb-068.jpg


Here she is in her final home
cwb-069.jpg



cwb-070.jpg


I lost a pickgaurd screw in the carpet when assembling, and didn't have a spare. Finally found it a few weeks after this picture.
cwb-071.jpg


Done!
cwb-072.jpg


It sounds great...I can get a wide variety of sounds, from single coil Stratty type spank, to full blown LP-like PAF tones. Plays like butter too. I really love the neck, and the body contours fit really well. I love the contoured heel. I really can't see playing another bolt-on without it anymore. Also, this my first Wilkinson trem. What a great piece of engineering... much better than the 6-point or a Floyd.

This has been one of the most rewarding and educational projects I've ever done. I'm just about to start work on my second. I can't wait to apply the lessons I've learned from this one!

Let me know what you think of her!
 
She's a beauty.  Great work.  You must be very proud of your accomplishment.


And I can relate to your sentiment - nothing fires me up to attack another project quite like succeeding at the last one, with some learning done along the way.
 
OUTSTANDING!! Great work!! That's really something to be proud of. Are you happy with how it plays and sounds?
 
Hey thanks a lot guys! Couldn't have done it without all the great advice I've gleaning off this board, and you fine people!

It plays amazingly well. Very comparable to my strat, but "tighter" if that makes sense. I think a lot has to do with the Wilkinson trem, which I absolutely love. The only minor thing that annoys me is the string spacing. Both "E"s are really close to to fretboard edge, and sometimes I bend them over the side if I'm too overzealous. Not sure if it's because of the Wilkinson spacing, or the nut, or both. I mostly notice it in the higher frets, so I would assume the bridge spacing may be a micro-hair too wide.

I get all sorts of tones out of it. I think it does cleans a little better that saturated distortion tones. Maybe it's because of the StewMac Golden Age 'buckers. It's gets a little loose/floppy sounding when applying any heavy distortion to it. I certainly wouldn't use it for metal, but it's fine for cleaner Zeppelin tones, and it does clean jazz excellently...very smooth.

 
A plentiful supply of wonderfulness in this build! :glasses9:

How did you fill the gap between neck joint ad body in the end (or haven't you)?
 
Back
Top