"absolutely black strat" project

[bagman67]

Hmmm.... that's a Warmoth finish already in place on the headstock, yes?  You may want to lightly sand the headstock (320 grit) and then give it a blast of shellac (Zinsser Bullseye in rattle-can will do) to give the lacquer something to bond to that it likes. 


Generally, shellac is a good intermediate layer to put between an established finish and a new one that may or may not be compatible with the old one.  It works and plays well with others.


So:


Sand the black finish
Shellac
Waterslide decal
Lacquer
More lacquer
More lacquer
Still more lacquer
Wait a few weeks
Rub out the lacquer.

 

[Cagey]

You need some sanding steps in between lacquer coats in order to level the finish to the decal. Otherwise, you'll still see the edges of the decal. You want it to be embedded in the finish. Somewhat fine paper. 320 grit is good, and don't be too aggressive. You're basically trying to get the finish off the decal but not the base surface so the surrounding base gets as tall as the decal and hides the edges.

 

[blackofe]

Bagman67, Cagey, thank you!

well, it's getting more and more complicated..  :icon_scratch:

 

[blackofe]

and then give it a blast of shellac (Zinsser Bullseye in rattle-can will do) to give the lacquer something to bond to that it likes.

is this it: Zinsser 12 Oz. Clear Soft-Gloss Spray Shellac? ???

 

[bagman67]

That can is what I use.

 

[blackofe]

That can is what I use.

just bought it. and got sandpaper 400, too. i'm ready . just waiting for the decal itself. :doh:

 

[Cagey]

just bought it. and got sandpaper 400, too. i'm ready . just waiting for the decal itself. :doh:

You should be aware that the finer the paper's grit, the more easily it "loads up". That is, the particles that are cut off the finish stick in the open spaces between the abrasive particles, which limits their ability to cut any more. Once it does that, you stop cutting so much as scuffing and burnishing, which doesn't leave a good surface on the finish. So, take advantage of the paper's ability to stay in one piece when it's wet. You don't have to soak things, but some fluid is a Good Thing. Unclench fitty cent for a gallon of distilled water.

Also, decals are very fragile and the images are very thin and live on the surface of the film. Don't be too aggressive with your sanding, lest you wreck the decal itself. If you have to start over, it's more work than starting from scratch.

 

[blackofe]

thanks, Cagey! i'll try to be careful. though it's my first experience.

so you recommend more sandpaper? and often to replace it by a new one? how about 600 or 800?

 

[Cagey]

If you lubricate or wet the paper, it'll last a lot longer than it normally does dry, so you may not need more. In fact, it's highly unlikely. Later on in the process, when you get to the finishing stages, you may want something finer. You need some very good light to see how the surface looks. If it appears smooth, it may be time for buffing. The risk is that if it's not smooth enough to buff, you'll buff too much and burn through the finish. It's a judgment call that's tough to make without having destroyed a finish or two to know where the limits are.

 

[blackofe]

i've bought sandpaper 600 tonight. just in case.

 

[Cagey]

You might even want to go a bit finer, say 1000 grit. The finer you sand the surface, the easier/faster/safer it is to buff it out.

 

[blackofe]

You might even want to go a bit finer, say 1000 grit. The finer you sand the surface, the easier/faster/safer it is to buff it out.

i didn't see 1000 in lowe's. probably i need to dig ebay?

 

[Cagey]

No, Lowe's wouldn't have it. They serve a different market. Easiest place to find that sort of thing is usually at a well-stocked automotive supply store.

 

[blackofe]

got it! i'm gonna autozone

 

[blackofe]

tried to create something creative . but it looks ugly.

to find a professional artist?..

 

[blackofe]

i'm ready to ruin my black beauty. :cool01:

 

[blackofe]

i've overlimited my picture tank here - so, i'll try to use flickr (never did it before).

so, here's the decal i've received recently:

and this is the neck ready to be decaled:

 

[blackofe]

Hmmm.... that's a Warmoth finish already in place on the headstock, yes?  You may want to lightly sand the headstock (320 grit) and then give it a blast of shellac (Zinsser Bullseye in rattle-can will do) to give the lacquer something to bond to that it likes. 

Generally, shellac is a good intermediate layer to put between an established finish and a new one that may or may not be compatible with the old one.  It works and plays well with others.

So:

Sand the black finish
Shellac
Waterslide decal
Lacquer
More lacquer
More lacquer
Still more lacquer
Wait a few weeks
Rub out the lacquer.

i've printed it and taped it on my wall. thanks, Bagman67!  ccasion14:

 

[blackofe]

here we go!

 

[m4rk0]

Great!!! I love black fender headstocks!!

(I am a fan of contemporary strats:

I call this one the aprioricaster: