"absolutely black strat" project

[blackofe]

Marko, black headstock is cool, isn't it!

today i'm gonna coat it.  :icon_scratch:

btw, how to polish it then?

 

[bagman67]

Once you've got lots of coats of well cured lacquer, it's wet-sanding time - start with 600, and go through the grades to 1200 (or higher, if you like, but you may run up against diminishing returns).  Put a few drops of dishwashing liquid in your water so it lubricates better and won't load your paper.  Once you've got a nice, even matte finish, you start with some swirl-remover (see your local auto parts store), and then a final glaze (also from your auto parts store).  Try searching on posts from Tonar for the word "meguiars," and that will get you the specific product names you need.

 

[blackofe]

Once you've got lots of coats of well cured lacquer, it's wet-sanding time - start with 600, and go through the grades to 1200 (or higher, if you like, but you may run up against diminishing returns).  Put a few drops of dishwashing liquid in your water so it lubricates better and won't load your paper.  Once you've got a nice, even matte finish, you start with some swirl-remover (see your local auto parts store), and then a final glaze (also from your auto parts store).  Try searching on posts from Tonar for the word "meguiars," and that will get you the specific product names you need.

thanks, Bagman67. btw, "lots" - how many are they? i read in the rothkoandfrost's instruction, that after 3 clear coats it might be sanded and polished (after full drying, of course). is that so?

i saw here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tS06BUbg_M) the following step sequence:

1. sanding (from 500 to 2000).
2. Meguiars Meguiars Medium Cut Cleaner (a drill and Polishing Pad).
3. Meguiars Meguiars Swirl Remover (a drill and another pad).

will it work?

 

[bagman67]

"Lots" in this case means "enough coats to lose the edge of the decal in all that deep, luscious lacquer."


I can't speak from a position of experience about the validity of your polishing schedule, but it sounds pretty reasonable.  For so small an area, though, I'd probably do it by hand. 


I have had good luck with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze products, but have applied by hand following a regimen of wetsanding.  I shudder to think of what a buffing pad attached to a motor could do in my novice hands.  If you're experienced using that tool, you'll probably have a better touch than I.

 

[blackofe]

oh! i got it! Meguiars Meguiars Mirror Glaze Liquid Cleaner Wax?

and you know, probably i won't go with a drill. Quickie - Clean Results Microfiber Dusting & Polishing Cloth or PRECISION Polishing Cheese Cloth would be enough?

btw, after 3 coats:

probably they are not enough - i can see the decals' edge.

 

[Cagey]

Not only that, there's clearly a lot of orange peel to that finish. Needs a few more sanding/recoating cycles, at least. That'll also get rid of the edge of that decal. Just be careful during the sanding steps not to sand into the decal - you're past the point of fixing it. You'd have to start over.

 

[bagman67]

Okay, memory failed so I had to go look what I have in the man cave.


First the wet-sanding, then:


Meguiar's No. 9 Swirl Remover 2.0, followed by Meguiar's No. 7 Show Car Glaze are the products I've been using, applied with a microfiber applicator pad, then buffing with a microfiber cloth or a well-worn t-shirt.

 

[blackofe]

...applied with a microfiber applicator pad, then buffing with a microfiber cloth or a well-worn t-shirt.

that is rock-n-roll! :headbang:

 

[blackofe]

Not only that, there's clearly a lot of orange peel to that finish. Needs a few more sanding/recoating cycles, at least. That'll also get rid of the edge of that decal. Just be careful during the sanding steps not to sand into the decal - you're past the point of fixing it. You'd have to start over.

if i won't sand the decal - how is it gonna shine?

i'm gonna make 3 additional coats tonight (in 24 hour after the last).

people say, that after the lacquering i need to wait more time than 1 day - somebody waits for up 2 months. is it right?

and btw they recommend defat between coats (using alcohol). i'm afraid i missed that step. :icon_scratch:

you know, i can't stop. it seems to me that my next attempt would be better, and i'm looking at my tele am standard. it's black with rosewood fingerboard, but while maple headstock. what about to make it black, too..  :glasses9:

 

[bagman67]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9DDpmyPZZA

 

[blackofe]

Bagman67, here's my incomplete collection:

later, an LP trad pro (black, obviously) and the subj of this topic were added.

 

[Cagey]

Not only that, there's clearly a lot of orange peel to that finish. Needs a few more sanding/recoating cycles, at least. That'll also get rid of the edge of that decal. Just be careful during the sanding steps not to sand into the decal - you're past the point of fixing it. You'd have to start over.

if i won't sand the decal - how is it gonna shine?

i'm gonna make 3 additional coats tonight (in 24 hour after the last).

people say, that after the lacquering i need to wait more time than 1 day - somebody waits for up 2 months. is it right?

and btw they recommend defat between coats (using alcohol). i'm afraid i missed that step. :icon_scratch:

you know, i can't stop. it seems to me that my next attempt would be better, and i'm looking at my tele am standard. it's black with rosewood fingerboard, but while maple headstock. what about to make it black, too..  :glasses9:

I probably could have worded that better. You'll have to sand the decal, but what I meant was don't be too aggressive. The printing on there is on the surface and is extremely thin, so it'll be easy to sand through and wreck the decal, at which point you'll be inventing new cuss words.

You do have to wait for the lacquer to completely cure before you buff it out, but 2 months would be over-doing it. Two weeks is usually about right.

I know what you mean about not wanting to stop. A little success is very encouraging and gives you all sorts of ideas and permissions to do things you might not have done otherwise.

 

[blackofe]

three more layers.

i'm just afraid, that it's too thick now.. i would prefer, if it looks kinda vintage..

 

[Cagey]

I doubt it's too thick, but it definitely needs some sanding steps. You're getting orange peel on top of orange peel. You need to take some 400 grit after it, put on a coat, then sand again, then another coat, then sand again, switch to 600, then maybe 800, then maybe 1000, then buff it out. Also, it looks like you're spraying from too far away or making too fast a pass (or both) so you're just misting the thing. That's what's giving it that beaded, orange-peel surface. You need to get it just a tad wetter, and the clear coat will level out a bit on its own.

 

[swarfrat]

I actually like maple boards. But dude - that one sticks out in that pile. You got to do something about that! And you're missing a 12 string.

 

[Death by Uberschall]

Bagman67, here's my incomplete collection:

later, an LP trad pro (black, obviously) and the subj of this topic were added.

I think you should look into getting a black guitar to complete your collection.  :icon_jokercolor:

 

[blackofe]

before:

after:

now assemblying and tuning are waiting for me.. again..

 

[bagman67]

Looks nice!

 

[Cagey]

I agree. Too bad about the extra hole in the head, but he could always run in a little screw and pretend it has a purpose.

I had an extra hole drilled in my head once. But, once I bled out it healed up and I'm more or less fine now. I'm still waiting for my right lung to re-grow, though. I'm sure you've heard that old saying "two lungs are better than one" <grin>

 

[AutoBat]

Looks like a fine place to put a graphite string tree.
This build is coming along nicely.