What do you like/dislike about your Warmoth, and what would you change?

[Torment Leaves Scars]

Just like the question asks.  ccasion14:

Likes:

The body-  It looks totally "Metal."  Not to mention, it's not a common body style.  I see very few "Star" guitars, especially produced by major companies.  The only one I've seen that is similar is ESP's "Gus G" model.

The neck-  It's a work of art.  It's gorgeous.  The finish is absolutely stunning.  I have honestly NEVER seen a neck on a guitar that's more gorgeous than the neck on my guitar.  Not to mention, I love the radius of the neck, plus the jumbo frets.  Not only is it beautiful, but it's comfortable, and fast.

The weight/balance-  It's perfectly balanced while standing.  The neck doesn't sag at all.  I neither have to hold the neck down while playing, or up while playing.  It's also comfortable while sitting.  I'm right handed and I play with the guitar on my left leg, as it's a more natural position.  The main "cut" at the bottom rests nicely on my left leg, while the "cut" in the rear rests nicely between my legs, with the top "spike" hanging comfortably over my right leg.

The feel-  It feels like a Fender.  I love the feeling of a Fender, and this one feels EXACTLY like one.  What's even cooler is that it doesn't look anything like a Fender, yet feels like one.  Even though the neck has more of an Ibanez-style profile/radius, it still manages to feel like that of a Fender.

The sound-  It's very bright, more than likely due in part to the woods (alder body, maple/maple neck).  This guitar sustains for DAYS...definitely a good thing for Metal!  It can sound thick while running both pickups, warm while running only the neck pickup, and very screechy when running only the bridge pickup.  The guitar sounds fantastic on the clean channel, too.  By looking at the guitar, you would not expect it to sound real nice on a clean channel.  I, myself, did not expect it to sound good on a clean channel when I chose the parts for it.

The color combo[/i]-  IMO, the very light maple neck looks nothing short of classy up against the Candy Blue finish, and the abalone face dots just really pull everything together.  Not to mention, the stainless steel frets just SHINE!  Topped off with the gold hardware, and it just looks flat-out, AWESOME.  IMO, silver or black hardware would have really cheapened the look of the guitar.

Dislikes:

The heal-  Even with the contoured heal, I find it tough to get to the really high frets.  The heal is large and blocky.

The shape-  I have to be VERY careful about where I go with this guitar, because it's VERY easy to whack the back "point" on things.  I make sure to stay in open rooms where there aren't objects I'm going to run into where the body could get damaged.  It was also IMPOSSIBLE to find a case to fit this guitar, other than a generic coffin case, and the guitar would just be moving around too much in one of those.  It simply wouldn't be safe enough for my pride and joy.  I had to drop an addtional $300 on a custom case.

The "bridge pocket-  This is the one thing I absolutely HATE with every fiber in my body.  I HATE that the body is not deep enough for a floating tremolo.  At "full pull," the tremolo sticks out further than the rear of the body, meaning I have to leave the springs in the rear exposed.  IMO, it makes the guitar look cheap, unfinished, and very "kit-like."  A spacer would be needed between the body and a cover.

[size=14pt]What I'd Change:

The frets-  I'd probably go with 24 frets instead of 22 frets.

The finish-  This one's a "maybe."  Sometimes I wish I went with something that would look more aggressive, sort of "reptile-ish," like the green/yellow burst.  I think that would look amazing on a guitar of this shape.  Maybe I'll do that with the next one, if I decide to go with another "Star" in the future.

The "bridge pocket-  See "Dislikes."

 

[Kostas]

I want binding on my LP & strat but they don't do it with SS frets.
I want contoured heel in all my guitars. Sadly most of the showcase items don't have it and they refuse to do it even in unfinished bodies.
I want a thick back shape but not as thick as the FAT they offer. I wish they were more open in neck back shapes without paying lot's of money.
I want all the headstock shapes, all woods and 13 angle necks availiable in Vintage Modern construction.

I like everything else in the guitars I've made from Warmoth parts. Quality is excellent.

 

[erogenousjones17]

The few things I don't like like about my Warmoth are my own fault. I wish I had ordered a '59 roundback instead of a standard thin contour. I wish I had gotten smaller frets. And I wish I had done a better job on the finish (that much I will fix some day).

But those things just give me all the more reason to build another! 

 

[Jusatele]

Actually I researched a lot before ordering my body, and spent a few months on that while researching my neck, and I love it, if I had to change anything it would be the little scratch I put in the body first time I played it.

 

[ORCRiST]

The "bridge pocket-  This is the one thing I absolutely HATE with every fiber in my body.  I HATE that the body is not deep enough for a floating tremolo.  At "full pull," the tremolo sticks out further than the rear of the body, meaning I have to leave the springs in the rear exposed.  IMO, it makes the guitar look cheap, unfinished, and very "kit-like."  A spacer would be needed between the body and a cover.

Woah, dude. Easily fixed! (Assuming I understand your complaint correctly...)

Just get a smaller/shorter sustain block. If you're joe-metal, I'm surprised you haven't upgraded your block
to something else to begin with. Anyways, I think the stock block on my Schaller FR was like 42/43mm
and protruded out the back of my strat body. I wanted a brass block so when I ordered it, I got the 37mm
version, and presto! - problem solved.

How thick is the 'star' body, is it thinner than a average guitar body for some reason, and do you have the Floyd
in a top mount or a recessed rout?

Also, did you shim your bridge saddles to match the necks' compound radius? Not needed, but those of
us that have love it.

(see page 6): http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=12723.0

ORC

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

The "bridge pocket-  This is the one thing I absolutely HATE with every fiber in my body.  I HATE that the body is not deep enough for a floating tremolo.  At "full pull," the tremolo sticks out further than the rear of the body, meaning I have to leave the springs in the rear exposed.  IMO, it makes the guitar look cheap, unfinished, and very "kit-like."  A spacer would be needed between the body and a cover.

Woah, dude. Easily fixed!

Just get a smaller/shorter sustain block. If you're joe-metal, I'm surprised you haven't upgraded your block
to something else to begin with. Anyways, I think the stock block on my Schaller FR was like 42/43mm
and protuded out the back of my strat body. I wanted a brass block so when I ordered it, I got the 37mm
version, and presto! - problem solved.

Also, did you shim your bridge saddles to match the necks' compound radius? Not needed, but those of
us that have love it.

(see page 6): http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=12723.0

ORC

I didn't build the guitar.  I had it sent out to California, and Neal Moser actually did the build.  I was surprised he took on the job.  Someone from another forum suggested contacting him to see if he'd do it, and surprisingly, he took on the job!  I got the impression that it's not something he normally does, as he seemed a little apprehensive at first.  Whatever the case, he did a PHENOMENAL job!

To answer your question, I've never heard of doing these modifications.  I certainly need to look into them!  I am using a Schaller-Floyd tremolo.  I guess I'm more concerned about the "finished" look than anything else.  What types of changes will occur with the shorter sustainer block?  Will it throw it out of tune easier, or effect playability?  Just curious as to what the trade-offs are going to be, and if I'll need to have the guitar set up again....

 

[ORCRiST]

I didn't build the guitar.  I had it sent out to California, and Neal Moser actually did the build.  I was surprised he took on the job.  Someone from another forum suggested contacting him to see if he'd do it, and surprisingly, he took on the job!  I got the impression that it's not something he normally does, as he seemed a little apprehensive at first.  Whatever the case, he did a PHENOMENAL job!

To answer your question, I've never heard of doing these modifications.  I certainly need to look into them!  I am using a Schaller-Floyd tremolo.  I guess I'm more concerned about the "finished" look than anything else.  What types of changes will occur with the shorter sustainer block?  Will it throw it out of tune easier, or effect playability?  Just curious as to what the trade-offs are going to be, and if I'll need to have the guitar set up again....

Oh man, building them yourself is half the fun! But I realize not everyone is comfortable doing that - I considered having someone assemble
mine at first as well, but am glad I did it all in the end.  :icon_thumright:

Absolutley no changes occur... except that if you think it sustains good now, you ain't heard nothin' yet! (oh, and the whole "I dont have metal
sticking out the back of my body anymore" thing.) Especially if you throw in some Raw Vintage tremolo springs plus the brass block, it sustains even more...

The saddle shims allow the action to be set lower and picking in general (especially sweep-picking) is easier and more 'natural'; if speed is your thing, you'll love it. The shims are stupid easy to install (as is the sustain block), and the only thing you'd want to change is to lower the action. If you decided to do all three (highly recommended) you'd probably want to do another set-up - but its not "required"...and nowhere near as involved as a 'first time' setup.

http://www.floydupgrades.com/catalog/index.php
http://www.axcessories.com/products.asp?cat=25
http://www.rawvintage.com/eng/item_springs.php

ccasion14:

ORC

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

I didn't build the guitar.  I had it sent out to California, and Neal Moser actually did the build.  I was surprised he took on the job.  Someone from another forum suggested contacting him to see if he'd do it, and surprisingly, he took on the job!  I got the impression that it's not something he normally does, as he seemed a little apprehensive at first.  Whatever the case, he did a PHENOMENAL job!

To answer your question, I've never heard of doing these modifications.  I certainly need to look into them!  I am using a Schaller-Floyd tremolo.  I guess I'm more concerned about the "finished" look than anything else.  What types of changes will occur with the shorter sustainer block?  Will it throw it out of tune easier, or effect playability?  Just curious as to what the trade-offs are going to be, and if I'll need to have the guitar set up again....

Oh man, building them yourself is half the fun! But I realize not everyone is comfortable doing that - I considered having someone assemble
mine at first as well, but am glad I did it all in the end.  :icon_thumright:

Absolutley no changes occur... except that if you think it sustains good now, you ain't heard nothin' yet! (oh, and the whole "I dont have metal
sticking out the back of my body anymore" thing.) Especially if you throw in some Raw Vintage tremolo springs plus the brass block, it sustains even more...

The saddle shims allow the action to be set lower and picking in general (especially sweep-picking) is easier and more 'natural'; if speed is your thing, you'll love it. The shims are stupid easy to install (as is the sustain block), and the only thing you'd want to change is to lower the action. If you decided to do all three (highly recommended) you'd probably want to do another set-up - but its not "required"...and nowhere near as involved as a 'first time' setup.

http://www.floydupgrades.com/catalog/index.php
http://www.axcessories.com/products.asp?cat=25
http://www.rawvintage.com/eng/item_springs.php

ccasion14:

ORC

Where do the shims go?  Wouldn't a shim cause "lift" instead of just the opposite?  With my neck, I have a space between the neck and the body (Am I being confusing?).  With the tremolo lower into the body, wouldn't it have an effect on the playability because of that?  Right now, the bottom edge of the bridge is exactly level with the body.

You really have me convinced on wanting to do these things, or at least seriously look into them.  This guitar plays great as is, but if the potential is there to make it even better, I'm all for it!  :headbang1:

 

[DocNrock]

+1 on the shorter brass block on the Floyd.  All of my trem guitars have them.

Regarding what I don't like, I really wish Warmoth had neck-thru options.

 

[swarfrat]

Dislike -
It's still missing a neck!

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

+1 on the shorter brass block on the Floyd.  All of my trem guitars have them.

Regarding what I don't like, I really wish Warmoth had neck-thru options.

I was going to say the same thing, that I wish Warmoth offered neck-through options.  I certainly would have gone that route.

I looked at the tremolo on my guitar, and I can't figure out how I would actually get a brass block in it.  It looks like it's all one piece with the bridge itself.   :icon_scratch:

 

[pabloman]

The screws are underneath the saddles. The bridge would have to be taken apart. If it wasnt shimmed for the compound radius now would be the time to do it. It will have to be setup again too.

 

[toronado]

All in all, I'm very happy with my Warmoth Jazz Bass. The only thing I don't like about it is its neck heavyness. If I had known that back then I would have used other tuners (I have Schaller BMLs, they aren't on the light side either).
I was under the impression that most stock F-Brand JBs have the same tuners and I did not notice that there are double steel rods in Warmoth's neck (yes I know, its written on their homepage).
But I don't like to change the tuners now for Ultralites because all the drilled holes would be useless and uncovered. And I don't think there are light tuners who will fit exactly in the old drilling holes...
Any thoughts on that?

And another issue is the finish. Sometimes I wish I had used grain filler on the swamp ash back. But its ok.

 

[ORCRiST]

The screws are underneath the saddles. The bridge would have to be taken apart. If it wasnt shimmed for the compound radius now would be the time to do it. It will have to be setup again too.

Yeah, check out the floydupgrades.com link I posted above...

They have video's on there exactly how to take it apart, block installation, and reassembly.

Its really easy. Seriously.

Ok, what the shims do is this: imagine a half-circle. The half circle represents the curvature of your floyd's saddles, its radius.
You install two shims under each E string (high and low) and one shim under the A and one under the B string saddles.

This is the easiest I can explain it with a 5-minute sketch and digital camera...  

HTH,

ORCRiST

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

The screws are underneath the saddles. The bridge would have to be taken apart. If it wasnt shimmed for the compound radius now would be the time to do it. It will have to be setup again too.

Yeah, check out the floydupgrades.com link I posted above...

They have video's on there exactly how to take it apart, block installation, and reassembly.

Its really easy. Seriously.

Ok, what the shims do is this: imagine a half-circle. The half circle represents the curvature of your floyd's saddles, its radius.
You install two shims under each E string (high and low) and one shim under the A and one under the B string saddles.

This is the easiest I can explain it with a 5-minute sketch and digital camera...  

HTH,

ORCRiST

Ah, okay, so basically what happens is that with the shims, it's going to follow the same radius as the neck, and because of the shims, the strings will also be on that same radius as the neck, which will make all the strings the exact height off the neck.  In other words, the E strings won't be further away from the fretboard because of it....Am I getting this right?

BTW, great sketch, and thanks for explaining!  :icon_biggrin:

 

[ORCRiST]

Ah, okay, so basically what happens is that with the shims, it's going to follow the same radius as the neck, and because of the shims, the strings will also be on that same radius as the neck, which will make all the strings the exact height off the neck.  In other words, the E strings won't be further away from the fretboard because of it....Am I getting this right?

BTW, great sketch, and thanks for explaining!  :icon_biggrin:

You got it.

You're welcome! I started out wondering how to explain it all in words - then said "F**k it" and drew a picture. 

There is this thread as well, discussing the mathmatics of it all: http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=1983.0

But all you really need to know is: 6 shims total, 2 under each E saddle, 1 for the A saddle and 1 for the B  saddle.

:rock-on:

ORC

 

[pabloman]

Awesome :guitaristgif:

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

Ah, okay, so basically what happens is that with the shims, it's going to follow the same radius as the neck, and because of the shims, the strings will also be on that same radius as the neck, which will make all the strings the exact height off the neck.  In other words, the E strings won't be further away from the fretboard because of it....Am I getting this right?

BTW, great sketch, and thanks for explaining!  :icon_biggrin:

You got it.

You're welcome! I started out wondering how to explain it all in words - then said "F**k it" and drew a picture. 

There is this thread as well, discussing the mathmatics of it all: http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=1983.0

But all you really need to know is: 6 shims total, 2 under each E saddle, 1 for the A saddle and 1 for the B  saddle.

:rock-on:

ORC

I'm looking at the bridge on my guitar, and it looks like all the saddles are even with one another.  Because of this, wouldn't adding the shims throw off the height?  I'd actually be raising the action by adding the shims.  :icon_scratch:  Maybe there are already shims added.  :icon_scratch:

I'm not sure what radius the neck is.  There's not a whole lot of curve to it.

 

[ORCRiST]

Ah, okay, so basically what happens is that with the shims, it's going to follow the same radius as the neck, and because of the shims, the strings will also be on that same radius as the neck, which will make all the strings the exact height off the neck.  In other words, the E strings won't be further away from the fretboard because of it....Am I getting this right?

BTW, great sketch, and thanks for explaining!  :icon_biggrin:

You got it.

You're welcome! I started out wondering how to explain it all in words - then said "F**k it" and drew a picture. 

There is this thread as well, discussing the mathmatics of it all: http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=1983.0

But all you really need to know is: 6 shims total, 2 under each E saddle, 1 for the A saddle and 1 for the B  saddle.

:rock-on:

ORC

I'm looking at the bridge on my guitar, and it looks like all the saddles are even with one another.  Because of this, wouldn't adding the shims throw off the height?  I'd actually be raising the action by adding the shims.   :icon_scratch:  Maybe there are already shims added.  :icon_scratch:

I'm not sure what radius the neck is.  There's not a whole lot of curve to it.

Yeah, eyeballing it won't really tell (or show) you anything - both the radii of the bridge and the neck are very, very subtle.

No, they won't throw off the height as the adjustments are so fine. I can see the shims under my saddles, but then again
I installed them and know what to look for. There could be shims already installed, to know for sure ask your builder if you can.  :dontknow:

And FYI - this is a reallly subtle mod. Its like, you go the guitar store. You play a $1000 joe-average guitar. Its nice. Then for
shits and giggles, you pick up a $5000.00 axe out of its case. You know how you can just tell its in another league? Not by the price
tag on the headstock, but how smooth everything feels - how some licks that say, you might struggle with at home on your main axe
suddenly seem easier to play for no apparent reason? Its because of little details like saddle shims, not a night-and-day upgrade like
pickups might be, just...seemless. A very small part/tweak enhancing the overall whole. Best way I can explain it.    When I was building
my guitar I had a lot of time to consider and research every little aspect, how they interacted with each other, and how to spend more money
on it. LOL.

ORC

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

Ah, okay, so basically what happens is that with the shims, it's going to follow the same radius as the neck, and because of the shims, the strings will also be on that same radius as the neck, which will make all the strings the exact height off the neck.  In other words, the E strings won't be further away from the fretboard because of it....Am I getting this right?

BTW, great sketch, and thanks for explaining!  :icon_biggrin:

You got it.

You're welcome! I started out wondering how to explain it all in words - then said "F**k it" and drew a picture. 

There is this thread as well, discussing the mathmatics of it all: http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=1983.0

But all you really need to know is: 6 shims total, 2 under each E saddle, 1 for the A saddle and 1 for the B  saddle.

:rock-on:

ORC

I'm looking at the bridge on my guitar, and it looks like all the saddles are even with one another.  Because of this, wouldn't adding the shims throw off the height?  I'd actually be raising the action by adding the shims.   :icon_scratch:  Maybe there are already shims added.  :icon_scratch:

I'm not sure what radius the neck is.  There's not a whole lot of curve to it.

Yeah, eyeballing it won't really tell (or show) you anything - both the radii of the bridge and the neck are very, very subtle.

No, they won't throw off the height as the adjustments are so fine. I can see the shims under my saddles, but then again
I installed them and know what to look for. There could be shims already installed, to know for sure ask your builder if you can.  :dontknow:

And FYI - this is a reallly subtle mod. Its like, you go the guitar store. You play a $1000 joe-average guitar. Its nice. Then for
shites and giggles, you pick up a $5000.00 axe out of its case. You know how you can just tell its in another league? Not by the price
tag on the headstock, but how smooth everything feels - how some licks that say, you might struggle with at home on your main axe
suddenly seem easier to play for no apparent reason? Its because of little details like saddle shims, not a night-and-day upgrade like
pickups might be, just...seemless. A very small part/tweak enhancing the overall whole. Best way I can explain it.    When I was building
my guitar I had a lot of time to consider and research every little aspect, how they interacted with each other, and how to spend more money
on it. LOL.

ORC

Well, if I have a new block installed, I guess it would the time to find out if there are already shims in there.

BTW, your Strat is absolutely AMAZING.  Dare I even ask how much cash you've tied up into it?  :help: