tune-o-matic bridge with compound radius neck


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Since most of the tune-o-matic type bridges use a fixed saddle radius of 12",  doesn't using one with a Warmoth compound radius neck create some problems, especially the closer to the bridge end of the neck? If I'm understanding this right, the nut/bridge combination would yield a 10-12" radius cone at 25 1/2 inches, while the fretboard is 10-16", and would be a 10-18.5" radius at the bridge (I think Greg posted this somewhere else on the board). If a tune-o-matic don't allow height adjustment, then you cant match up the lie of the strings with the fretboard. Won't this create a lot of problems? And are there ways to compensate the bridge like different saddles or something? Just curious how this is handled, and if I'm missing something obvious.
I'll very shortly be in a similar situation:
        I've got a 7.25" total vintage neck coming, and i'll be using a tunomatic bridge. I know I've read that with the compoud 10-16 radius, it's not that big of an issue. But is this also true with the 7 1/4 radius?
This sounds like something that can get corrected by trimming the saddles.  The inner saddles to flatten the radius and the outer to increase the radius.

Problem with increasing the radius for 7-1/4 is that those end saddles are usually pretty low to start with...  You wont have problems on the playing side of the string, but the stoptail side might need a small groove cut in it to allow for the string to not hit the back end of the bridge (which can cause problems)
I was concerned with that as well on my Warmoth Les Paul.  I used a TonePros bridge though.  I just ordered the bridge from Tonepros with un-notched saddles so the setup could be done from scratch.
My Number One is a Warmoth LP with a compound radius neck and a 12" radius bridge. I got to tell ya, my set up feels great the way it is.
Well it's good to know it works because I have a Tune-O-Matic (TonePros) bridge that is going to have to work with the compound radius.

But I was also wondering if I could mix and match saddles from another odd Tune-O-Matic I have laying around to create a flatter arch to better accommodate the 18.5 radius.

I don't have the bridge in front of me to look at.  Does anybody know if they can be taken apart and reassembled that way?
the diference between a 12" radius and a 18.5" is only about .016" at the bridge that is 1/64", on the playing surface even at the highest frets you wont see more than .010-.012". that can make a noticable diference to some, but probably not a hinderence. people don't realize how subtle the diferences are in radius over 12". the 7-1/4 to 12 is much more pronounced at around .030 or about 1/32".

@jtroska, if you used a pair of sadles from the 2nd and 5th strings in place of the 3rd and 4th, then filed the 2nd and 5th on the bridge you are using to somewhere in between it will work out perfectly. tip use a radius gage.
it is posible that there is a better way if each saddle has a diferent heigh (ie. the 1st string is lower than the 6th the 2nd than the 4th 2nd than the 3rd) maybe you can mix and match without filing. i don't currently have a tuneomatic so i don't know myself. and yes i beleive it can be taken apart without to much trouble.
I was concerned about the same problem but Gregg is absolutely right... it's a non-problem when you're actually playing. 
I just checked the deviation by adjusting the bridge so that a straightedge ruler could rest flush against the outer E string saddles and the top 12 or so frets.  Then I placed the straightedge on the middle saddles to see how much lift it would have over the top frets.  The lift is so minute it can't possibly be significant.  I tried to snap some pictures to show you the deviation but it's just too tiny to capture with my simple camera.  I'd need some kind of magnifying lens to capture such a small detail.  And that's the worse case highest frets.  As you go down the fretboard, the difference will be even less significant.  I'm not worried about it after seeing that.  No need for filing.