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Tonarcaster/ Tele Special

Hardwood really doesn't compress or displace easily. If you don't destroy your fastener, you'll split the wood. But, something's gotta give. Two things can't occupy the same space.

In this application, the tuner screws are really just easily placed locator pins, not fasteners. The tuners are held in by the hollow shoulder bolts from the top. So, they don't need to be ultra-tight, just firm enough to keep the body of the tuner from turning due to torque from the string. You'll notice on Sperzels, they don't use screws at all, they actually use locator pins. But, they require more precision when drilling the holes for them, so you need a template or a jig or some precise way of marking the centerlines for those holes.
 
Max said:
Yeah, I think my problem was that I used a bit that was the same size as the shaft minus thread.

Too tight a shaft and as the length of the screw went in, the tension on the screw increased to a point where it stayed put within the shaft, leaving the exposed end breaking off? That makes sense. Did you use a power tool to screw it in or hand held screw driver?
 
OzziePete said:
Max said:
Yeah, I think my problem was that I used a bit that was the same size as the shaft minus thread.

Too tight a shaft and as the length of the screw went in, the tension on the screw increased to a point where it stayed put within the shaft, leaving the exposed end breaking off? That makes sense. Did you use a power tool to screw it in or hand held screw driver?
I haven't put a screw bit in my drill yet for this exact reason. I hope I don't get snowed in today. I've got an appointment wednesday with the guy doing the fretwork.
 
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Death by Uberschall said:
No pick guard required, just paint it up.  :occasion14:

I thought it was already painted up? A TV white sort of transparent finish by Tonar?  :icon_scratch:
 
That thing on the table was a pickguard mockup.  The actual one should be done this week if I order some quick shipping.
 
Max said:
B3Guy said:
Max said:
That's the plan, Pete! It will be under a pickup ring, so I will need to be careful.
there's one thing I've learned in my woodworking experiences:
if you're nervous, go old-school and leave the power tools behind. it may take more time, but using a file/rasp will keep you from removing too much too quickly with a dremel.
Rasp seems to be the way to go. I'm going to remove less than 1/8" total.

+1, I was going to say you might want to stay away from the power tools with this one. I can't wait to see this finished Max.


Edit: Just realized I didn't open this to the latest page, so scratch that :laughing7:
 
Max said:
That thing on the table was a pickguard mockup.  The actual one should be done this week if I order some quick shipping.

Who is doing the custom pickguard for you?
 
Here it is with my pickguard test, lousily photoshopped. I'm starting to be more confident I'll like it.
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Max said:
Here it is with my pickguard test, lousily photoshopped. I'm starting to be more confident I'll like it.
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Lookin good.

I like that finish.
Is that black grainfill and a semi-opaque white?

Perhaps there is a thread on it out there.
 
Watershed said:
Max said:
Here it is with my pickguard test, lousily photoshopped. I'm starting to be more confident I'll like it.
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Lookin good.

I like that finish.
Is that black grainfill and a semi-opaque white?

Perhaps there is a thread on it out there.

IIRC, it's a brown grainfill with white. Tonar can chime in. I'll find the thread that covered try 1 :P
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=10292.0
White wash, and brown grain fill over it.
 
I like it a lot better with the guard, looking good.

It's a white wash lacquer then a very light beige lacquer wash like Gibson did on the TV Yellow finishes. The grain filler was Jasco natural oil filler with some Raw Umber and Red Universal Colorant to tint it up. Clear coat is Val Spar gloss nitrocellulose, which should yellow up very nicely as it ages.
 
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