Tom P.'s eBay Project

[SustainerPlayer]

It's a bumpy road. Good to see you're hanging on.

Reminds me to go on with the Charvel-body myself.  :toothy11:

 

[Corey P.]

Well this is a pretty insane journey - glad you're sticking with it.  Have you gotten any work done on the body in the mean time?

 

[TomPerverteau]

My plan is to get the headstock done so I can attach the neck to the body & string it up. If I get a good range of intonation adjustment, that will mean my bridge landed in the right spot and I can move on with the body.

 

[TomPerverteau]

Having second thoughts about the painted "binding." Does anybody know if routing for a real binding on this body would jeopardize the glue joint holding the top?

 

[Jumble Jumble]

Wow! Has anything happened in between those last two posts?

 

[Cagey]

Having second thoughts about the painted "binding." Does anybody know if routing for a real binding on this body would jeopardize the glue joint holding the top?

I just went looking through the Showcase, and there are a number of bodies that are chambered that also have inlaid binding on them, so apparently Warmoth doesn't worry about it. I'd say that gives you permission to not worry, either.

 

[TomPerverteau]

Yes, I have worked on the headstock from time to time. I have been struggling to get a masked/painted "binding" to come out acceptably. My striping tape doesn't like the sharp curves.

I started to think it might be easier to just do a real binding. My budget is a lot more generous these days, so I could easily buy the proper router bit for a nice black binding. The binding itself is dirt cheap from StewMac.

The body is actually what Warmoth calls "hollow," and not "chambered." That's why I have a concern about routing through the glue joint around the edge of the body that holds the top on. Also, can I run that router setup around the carved-top body and keep it flat?

 

[DangerousR6]

With the body being hollow, I don't think I'd even attempt to try routing for binding on the body...

 

[Cagey]

The body is actually what Warmoth calls "hollow," and not "chambered." That's why I have a concern about routing through the glue joint around the edge of the body that holds the top on. Also, can I run that router setup around the carved-top body and keep it flat?

I just went through the builder and they'll put real binding on hollow (vs. chambered) Teles and VIPs, so I still wouldn't worry about the glue joint. The binding isn't that thick in the first place, and judging by the wall thickness you can see in the pictures, there's plenty of wood there.

As for routing something with a carved top, that does sound tricky. Stew-Mac makes an attachment for the Dremel tool that's designed to cut for binding on archtop instruments...

I've not used one, But I can see where it could work if you were very careful, the concern being that there's not much to hold it square.

 

[pabloman]

That's not really for archtops. Its more for router base clearance issues. The do have an archtop jig though. Its just a vertical drawer slide but it works.

 

[Cagey]

I don't know... they advertise it as being "great for archtops". And base clearance issues are the defining problem with cutting for binding on archtops. I know the one you're talking about, and it looks like it's designed more for acoustics. I'm not sure you could get it into the tighter curves you find on electrics.

 

[pabloman]

The guys at a local shop here use it. It's funny because it looks home made. 

 

[TomPerverteau]

I have a Black & Decker die grinder that uses standard 1/8" bits just like a Dremel. I wouldn't have to buy or borrow a router if I got that Dremel tooling. I'm leaning towards doing it this way.

Thanks for the research, info, and advice!

 

[TomPerverteau]

OK, I'm never going to paint a binding again! This is my second attempt, better than the first. I used the best pinstripe masking tape I could find, from Eastwood Corp.

Pretty heinous. Hopefully it will clean up some with the buffing. I'm done painting on the headstock! Need to move on to the body.

 

[AutoBat]

I just read the 15 pages again (probably for the 4th time).  You've got great dedication to this project. I really want to see it finished!

 

[AGWAN]

I would have hand painted that binding on with a brush.

but then I possess certain artsy skills

 

[TomPerverteau]

I stepped back & looked, and thought, "I could have done better with a brush!" Just like Sprinkiles said. That was the most difficult masking I have ever done.

I peeled the tape too early. Peeling too late can be disastrous as well. I know I can get a clean line if I peel at the right time. So I changed my mind; I'm going to re-do it AGAIN! This thing is taking years. Why get into a hurry now?

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

My finish skills are horrible, so maybe someone could chime in if this is a good idea or not, but if you sprayed a layer of clear on top of the white, would that make that line cleaner?

 

[pabloman]

If it was me I would paint the binding area first. Mask off where I wanted the binding and then shoot the white. It would be much easier to mask. Burnish the edges of the tape with a blunt object too. When you peel off the tape make sure you are peeling quickly and pull it kind of back over itself. You want a big tearaway angle. Good luck.

 

[TomPerverteau]

I did start out doing the black first...years ago! I think I'm back to the idea of just doing a real binding. I'll order that Dremel attachment, router bit, and binding tomorrow.