Soloist in a PRS-style Dragon Breath stain pattern

docteurseb

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Got this carved top Soloist body couple months ago, it has a mahogany back and Warmoth was kind enough to make it 1 piece w/o asking for it. It also happens to be quite light which is perfect:
LE9t9YB.jpg

9Ro9cad.jpg


When I ordered it I wanted to try again the color scheme used here:
  https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=30158.0

In that prior build the test piece was a perfect match but the body turned out quite different:
1) the top I picked was too dark
2) it was my first dye job and I did way too much blending and two layers of finish instead of just one.

Although I was pretty disappointed when I got the body back, I've now come to like that finish too.
I still have that guitar and I'm updating it with a different neck for improved tuning stability.

This time around I wanted a light colored top with quilt figure as close as possible to the PRS (the angled tubular quilt figure just goes very well with a 'dragon breath' stain pattern).
I looked for months at Warmoth's selection of laminate tops and never found a good match.
Ended up shooting an email to Warmoth not really expecting much (usually what is in the showcase is what you get), and to my surprise Jeff and the shop's foreman actually located a piece of lumber that matched.

I'm hesitant attempting the same color again, instead I narrowed it down to couple options:

1) A more 'traditional' red/orange dragon's breath, can't really go wrong with that one:
EHwDGCTUwAAy_L0


2)Indian Ocean Sunset which adds purple and blue:
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czVhy1T3XnA&feature=emb_logo[/youtube]

It may not look spectacular on this video, but I saw one such guitar when visiting the PRS factory last summer and it was a jaw dropping finish.

I did a test piece last week-end:
0umppiY.jpg


With a clear coat it's much more interesting:
0HgZ0U8.jpg


With so many stains though it may be more difficult to get a really good dragon breath pattern and color blending.


4) Starting with a vivid red and going towards purple and dark blue could look great too. I'm thinking of a red like the PRS Graveyard II:
DSC02570-1_1024x1024@2x.jpg



5) Final option would be a black to light grey fade with light sand back (aka 'frostbite'):
EOQpJ7oXsAYG8Lo


I did backplates in that finish for my PRS and it's an easy one when done on a small and flat surface:
77FTfXl.jpg


I am however not confident enough in my sanding skills to achieve an even sanding on a curved top body.


As for the neck it will be roasted maple (1st time using one), fingerboard will be dark rosewood, ziricote, or ebony. Headstock veneer will be quilt maple dyed to match, or the same wood as the fingerboard.

Might take a while to see much activity here. If I order a neck with quilt maple veneer I would wait for it to arrive to stain both body and neck together, otherwise I can stain the body soon once I settle on a color scheme.
 
Man, you can't go wrong with any of those finishes. I find the fade pattern more dynamic than a burst. Looking forward to whatever you choose, there.
 
I definitely got to eventually appreciate the finish of the prior build.
While it wasn't the color I was expecting,  it still turned out as good as I hoped from a pure stain/dye job perspective.

For this body, given the black binding, a natural back, and roasted maple neck the choice of finish sort of narrows down to either the orange/red or orange/red/purple schemes.

IMO the red/purple/blue scheme would look best on a body with translucent red or dark color at the back and a cream/white binding for contrast. At that point a roasted maple neck wouldn't quite be a consideration anymore, I would instead go for a dark wood like wenge or Indian rosewood.
 
I have try both neck wood , wenge  hard like maple neck .

but  Indian rosewood on mahogany body tone too dark for my tastes. but I use low output vintage PU on that guitar .
 
Dark necks would be an option for the red/purple/blue scheme, I just don't see that color playing well with the black binding.
I'd also like to minimize weight whenever possible, roasted maple is very appealing ;-)
 
You've definitely got some good raw material there. You should be able to do something killer with that. Let your mind wander... :cool01:
 
Thanks !

Still debating which color scheme to use :laughing11:

The blue/purple/red/orange/yellow one is cool but maybe too wide of a color palette. It would look a little more 'natural' restricting it only to purple/red/orange with maybe just a slight hint of yellow. That's what Warmoth did on their Nebula Burst 40th anniversary dyes:
PS14726A.jpg

PS14730a.jpg


I'll try them all on a piece of curly maple on the coming days and see how they look in person.
 
Man I really like that Indian Ocean sunset tone. Is that your own design or does Warmoth offer that?
 
docteurseb said:
Thanks !

Still debating which color scheme to use :laughing11:

The blue/purple/red/orange/yellow one is cool but maybe too wide of a color palette. It would look a little more 'natural' restricting it only to purple/red/orange with maybe just a slight hint of yellow. That's what Warmoth did on their Nebula Burst 40th anniversary dyes:
PS14726A.jpg

PS14730a.jpg


I'll try them all on a piece of curly maple on the coming days and see how they look in person.

Yes, I drive myself crazy every time trying to decide what look to go with. You have the best method right there, experiment on something else first. Years ago, I had to learn that the hard way.  :doh:
 
Purple is a natural transition color going from blue to red. The blue really makes the orange pop. I think it would be less exciting with the blue left off. I like it a lot.
 
Rgand said:
Purple is a natural transition color going from blue to red. The blue really makes the orange pop. I think it would be less exciting with the blue left off. I like it a lot.

I agree- sorry I was super confusing.
For some reason I saw the PRS video's Indian Ocean Sunset as going all the way from a bright yellow to very dark blue.
Whereas I saw the Warmoth one as going from a dark purple/violet to orange.

Looking at them again they all go to a dark blue (with maybe a hint of purple on my screen), I think I want to keep the darkest color the same as the Warmoth bodies and not add a dark 100% blue at the outer edge.
On the bright side of the color palette I prefer where Warmoth stopped (orange) though compared to PRS going to a brighter yellow.

Anyways, can't really go wrong ;-)
 
docteurseb said:
Rgand said:
Purple is a natural transition color going from blue to red. The blue really makes the orange pop. I think it would be less exciting with the blue left off. I like it a lot.

I agree- sorry I was super confusing.
For some reason I saw the PRS video's Indian Ocean Sunset as going all the way from a bright yellow to very dark blue.
Whereas I saw the Warmoth one as going from a dark purple/violet to orange.

Looking at them again they all go to a dark blue (with maybe a hint of purple on my screen), I think I want to keep the darkest color the same as the Warmoth bodies and not add a dark 100% blue at the outer edge.
On the bright side of the color palette I prefer where Warmoth stopped (orange) though compared to PRS going to a brighter yellow.

Anyways, can't really go wrong ;-)
I like your direction. Also to stop short of bright yellow. This will be spectacular.
 
Kind of wondering though if a Modern construction neck with roasted maple+RW fingerboard would actually really be lighter than a Vintage Modern one made of RW or Wenge+ebony fingerboard.

The added weight go the modern truss rod+side adjust might just offset any weight savings from roasted maple.
 
Looks like the Modern construction only adds  3-4oz:
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6XXcDiPcKc[/youtube]

It's not negligible at all if the goal is a lighter Strat, but between Modern neck with roasted maple+RW, versus Vintage Modern with denser Wenge+Ebony I think there's a good chance it'd be either a wash or that the Modern neck would turn out lighter.
 
what effect weighs of neck of made head heavy:  using Locking turns or not ( or what kind of Locking turns ) > what kind of wood > construction kinds

Wood weight can be different from tree to tree for same kind of wood and how dry it is .
MACASSAR EBONY
Average Dried Weight: 70 lbs/ft3 (1,120 kg/m3)

Wange
Average Dried Weight: 54 lbs/ft3 (870 kg/m3)

HARD MAPLE
Average Dried Weight: 44.0 lbs/ft3 (705 kg/m3)
 
Exactly and one reason why I've been moving away from Schaller locking tuners (or their Fender version). I first used them on a semi-hollow Tele body that was already ultra light and it ruined the build making it incredibly neck heavy.

Lately I've been liking the Gotoh 300/500 series locking tuners quite a bit.

I cut a few pieces of curly maple yesterday:
index.php


I dyed 6 of them earlier to test those different color schemes. I'll clear coat them and post pictures/videos when ready.

Based on what I got the red/orange/yellow dragon breath scheme, when done with a sand back, is my most favorite looking piece.
 

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