Problem with neck fitting in Warmoth LP body

[GoDrex]

The holes on my neck got stripped very fast and no one ever used anything but a regular screw driver. I wonder if it's because of mahogany being soft? I had one hole repaired and when I got it back another one was stripped (I forgot to mention this in my epic rant hahaha ).

 

[JamesL]

Carvin do bolt/glue type necks.

No they don't... Trust me, I know Carvin Gear.

 

[blue313]

whack the fret down with a rubber or plastic mallet

So long as the fretboard doesn't have a hump, reseating it is a good bet.  Dont go real hard or at an angle or you'll dent the fret. 

a little spot level and setup from your tech should take care of the high fret. I would take it to a reputable tech and have it checked out.

If that doesnt work this is the only other sane option.

 

[dbw]

The holes on my neck got stripped very fast and no one ever used anything but a regular screw driver. I wonder if it's because of mahogany being soft? I had one hole repaired and when I got it back another one was stripped (I forgot to mention this in my epic rant hahaha ).

Mahogany feels pretty hard to me.  Korina, poplar, and basswood are soft

 

[GoDrex]

Well I haven't had any trouble with maple necks stripping. But my mahogany neck got stripped after having it for a couple weeks. And the neck was not removed that much.

 

[Wana_make_a_guitar]

Carvin do bolt/glue type necks.

No they don't... Trust me, I know Carvin Gear.

Really, i though they said they do it on the site.

 

[-CB-]

I was trying to set a low action
The 18th fret is higher than 17th and 19th fret. Now when I bend a full step on the 16th fret, the string touches 19th fret and suddenly note jumps a half step higher.

You haven't provided the right information.

1.  What is the string elevation at fret 12
2.  Has the nut been properly set up.
3.  What is the neck relief at fret 7 or 8
4.  What string elevation do YOU consider low?
5.  What is the fretboard radius
6.  Have you used a straight-edge or rocker to fully determine that the fret(s) are high?

Fretting out is a mathematical inevitability, based on scale length, fretboard radius, string elevation, and the amount you want to bend.

Answer those questions, and then we can  fix it.

 

[JamesL]

my friend's the manager at the one here in Hollywood and I see him take necks off all the time... so I dunno..

 

[dbw]

Well I haven't had any trouble with maple necks stripping. But my mahogany neck got stripped after having it for a couple weeks. And the neck was not removed that much.

Huh??  The neck doesn't strip, the body does.  The neck doesn't have threads.

 

[stubhead]

The neck doesn't have threads.

I don't even understand this discussion - of course there are threads in the neck, that's what holds it on. Until you strip them. Hundreds of thousands, even millions of people have screwed necks on without stripping the threads out. I personally drill out the holes in the body if the screws don't fit through them freely, so I can make sure I can feel the screws tightened to the right degree in the neck. But people strip screwholes, wood doesn't do it on it's own.

 

[dbw]

Maybe my memory is going but I put together my third warmoth a few weeks ago and I"m pretty sure the bolts just side right into the neck.

 

[guitlouie]

Uhhhh,  I have got to side with stubby on this one.  Unless you are talking about something else, there would be nothing to really hold the neck in place if the screws were not grabbing some wood in the neck. 

 

[stubhead]

There are no bolts - there are wood screws - it's not really a "bolt-on" neck, it's a screw-on neck. The screws cut threads into the neck wood, which holds it on. Unless you keep turning them and strip the threads, or crossthread them when you re-attach the neck after adjustments or fitting, by not knowing how to re-tighten woodscrews by backing them off till they find their first threads.

http://www.amazon.com/Make-Your-Own-Electric-Guitar/dp/0953104907/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1225014715&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Player-Repair-Guide-3rd/dp/0879309210/ref=pd_sim_b_5
http://www.amazon.com/Building-Electric-Guitars-Hollow-Body-Semi-Acoustic/dp/3901314075/ref=pd_bxgy_b_text_c
http://www.amazon.com/Constructing-Solid-Body-Guitar-Complete-Technical/dp/0881884510/ref=pd_sim_b_5
http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Guitar-Construction-First-Time-Builder/dp/1574241257/ref=pd_sim_b_4

I learned something from each of these books, and I disagree with something in each - I get 'em out of the library, using the inter-library loan program, it costs me nothing (Maryland....) Of all of them, the Erlewine is the only one you HAVE to have. Some basic woodworking background is a necessity in my opinion, as is a procedural turn of mind - i.e., the "cure" for stripped neck screws is NOT a tube of superglue....   Warmoth is somewhat in the unenviable position of a chainsaw manufacturer - how were they to know you'd carve up the neighbor's kids? :icon_scratch: