Floyd Nut on Straight Radius

[rorycosgrove]

Hey guys, I'm planning a build in the future, and I noticed that Warmoth doesn't prep for Floyd nuts on straight radii above 10". I love having a Floyd Rose, but I'd also like to have a 14" radius. Warmoth seems to imply that the nuts themselves won't fit a flatter radius, but I own 2 Floyd guitars with 12" and 14" radii, and I've seen many others. The thing that I don't understand, is if perhaps Warmoth doesn't stock the locking nuts to fit those radii, why don't they still offer the option to have it prepped? Can this be selected as a custom option?

-Rory

 

[Cagey]

According to the Floyd Rose site, all Floyd Rose original and professional locking nuts are 10" radius.

Without calling to find out, I suspect Warmoth is simply building to spec. To move off that would make them liable for a non-standard setup when it didn't work. Some guitar manufacturers may be willing to do things differently, but then it's on them. They're building guitars, while Warmoth is fabricating parts.

 

[rorycosgrove]

Ok, thanks. So then how would manufacturers (like Epiphone and ESP, in my case) go about doing that? Are they custom ordering different nuts from Floyd Rose, or perhaps manufacturing they're own?

-Rory

 

[DavyDave53]

Most Floyds on new guitars are licensed.  That means that they pay Mr. Floyd to make their own Floyds.  So licensed Floyds will differ from manufacture to manufacture.

 

[SustainerPlayer]

According to the Floyd Rose site, all Floyd Rose original and professional locking nuts are 10" radius.

No - look again. They list the R9 with 15" radius.

But they seem to be in conflict with their own information.

http://www.floydrose.com/pdf/FloydRose_PartsCatalog.pdf

On page 25 in their parts catalogue they list R3 as 12" and R10 (not R9) as 15". I believe their catalogue to hold the right info. At least I have had a guitar on the bench with OFR and nut with 12" radius. (guess that must be the R3?). But shoot them a email.

 

[SustainerPlayer]

Most Floyds on new guitars are licensed.  That means that they pay Mr. Floyd to make their own Floyds.  So licensed Floyds will differ from manufacture to manufacture.

Actually Floyd roses patents has expired. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Floyd_Rose#Patents
The last one in 2010.

But yes. There are many takes on the double locking system. Ibanez has some serious competitors.

 

[rorycosgrove]

Most Floyds on new guitars are licensed.  That means that they pay Mr. Floyd to make their own Floyds.  So licensed Floyds will differ from manufacture to manufacture.

Oh I know about those. Both of mine are Original Floyds (ok well one is a Korean original and the other is a 1000 but they both say "Floyd Rose" so they're not the licensed ones). So is it really that hard to build a Warmoth with a 14" and Floyd nut? The majority of Floyd guitars I've seen have 12+ radii, seems like it should be a bit easier

-Rory

 

[crash]

I think your best bet would be a 10-16" compound radius.  I am rebuilding my Ibanez which has a 17" radius.  I am using an R10 which has the 15" radius.  Most Ibanez necks use an R2 which is a 10" radius and most Ibanez necks are 15-17" radius.  They simply just don't match up.  I never understood that.

 

[rorycosgrove]

I think your best bet would be a 10-16" compound radius.  I am rebuilding my Ibanez which has a 17" radius.  I am using an R10 which has the 15" radius.  Most Ibanez necks use an R2 which is a 10" radius and most Ibanez necks are 15-17" radius.  They simply just don't match up.  I never understood that.

That's what I don't understand. It's almost as if the nut radius doesn't matter, which doesn't make much sense to me. The 10-16 is my best option through Warmoth, although I'm a bit anxious about it. Can anyone tell me how quickly it flattens? I expect it would be somewhat even, reaching 13.5 around the 12th fret?
The only reason it worries me is cuz I'm quite used to playing on my 14", to the point where my 12" is a bit uncomfortable to bend on. I never really noticed the advantages for rhythm playing on a curvy radius that everyone talks about, but I'd like to be able to do some pentatonic bends in F# 2nd fret position without trouble ya know

-Rory

 

[SustainerPlayer]

The good Jumble Jumble here made a calculator. It is prefilled with standard Warmoth specs. Just press "Calculate Results".

http://www.jumbleguitar.com/neckRadius.html

 

[rorycosgrove]

The good Jumble Jumble here made a calculator. It is prefilled with standard Warmoth specs. Just press "Calculate Results".

http://www.jumbleguitar.com/neckRadius.html

Ah thanks, that's a useful tool. Pretty much as I expected though. Worst case scenario I'm sure I could get used to the 10-16", I was just hoping that a custom guitar would be exactly the specs I want

-Rory

 

[Cederick]

That's what I don't understand. It's almost as if the nut radius doesn't matter, which doesn't make much sense to me. The 10-16 is my best option through Warmoth, although I'm a bit anxious about it. Can anyone tell me how quickly it flattens? I expect it would be somewhat even, reaching 13.5 around the 12th fret?
The only reason it worries me is cuz I'm quite used to playing on my 14", to the point where my 12" is a bit uncomfortable to bend on. I never really noticed the advantages for rhythm playing on a curvy radius that everyone talks about, but I'd like to be able to do some pentatonic bends in F# 2nd fret position without trouble ya know

-Rory

Hmmm... I have no problems bending on my compound neck, not even at the lower radius part

 

[rorycosgrove]

I think it's more an issue of what I'm used to. I've barely ever played on anything rounder than a 12" in my 6 years of playing. And for the last two years I've gotten most use out of the 14," so now even the 12" feels a little uncomfortable. I should also mention I'm using 10s. I tried a 9.75" radius Strat with lighter strings and that wasn't too bad. But if I'm getting a custom guitar I should be able to get pretty much exactly what I want.

I also got in touch with Warmoth. Spike over at the custom shop told me that he owns a guitar with a 17" radius and a 10" nut that plays fine. I guess the nut radius is not extremely important. I'm still waiting on an answer as to whether I could custom order a 14" neck with Floyd prep

-Rory

 

[crash]

Obviously, only you will be able to tell what you like and dislike as far as neck radius.  I can only give you my experiences.  I have many different radii: 7.25", 10-16", 12", 17".  After playing the 17" radius for many, many years, I was a little hesitant to go for the 10-16.  As soon as I played it, I took to it right away.  There was really no difference on the upper frets, and I found it easier to play chords on the lower frets.  Actually, I find the back contour a much bigger factor in playability.

I'm really surprised that you noticed that much of a difference between the 14" and the 12".  Was the back contour the same on both?

 

[rorycosgrove]

I'm really surprised that you noticed that much of a difference between the 14" and the 12".  Was the back contour the same on both?

No, slightly different. ESP Extra thin U on the 12" and Epiphone Speed Taper D on the 14". The Epi is slightly slimmer, about the same as a wizard I believe. But the profile doesn't bother me on anything, I only feel a difference in bending. I was surprised, too, that it could feel noticeable to me. I think it's just a matter of having played the one guitar so much more. Likely, I could adjust to a 10-16 the same way, but I think my ultimate preference will always be the 14"

-Rory