First Warmoth Build - Parts on the way...

JF

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Howdy all.  Long time player, first time Warmoth Project guitar builder. 

I've owned several "nice" guitars (multiple Jems, a JS, a Yamaha RGZ, American Strat, Floyd Rose Classic Strat (US), ESP Les Paul, muliple fujigen RG's, Soloists, an N4, Charvel Pro Mods, an Ibanez 7620, and a Washburn 24 fret tele), played in a few regional bands, and have a hobby recording rig.  I've also done all of my own repairs (plugging and re-drilling/mounting ripped out bidge posts for example and basic fret work) and setups since 1992.

After years of having these guitars and feeling like something "just wasn't right", in 2009 I attempted my first custom project - which was a nightmare process.  I dealt with a guy named Patrick Sims, and it was by far the worst consumer experience I ever had.  The project was a swirled Ash Universe style guitar, that I never received.  I ultimately got an neck and alder Jem body out of the deal, assembled them with no major issues, and sold the guitar.

Well, flash forward to 2013 and I'm ready to give it a go again and try to build the "perfect for me" guitar that I think takes all of the elements from the guitars I liked best and combines them.

I'd been considering a "build to order" body, but had been eyeing this maple body soloist (pic attached hopefully).  I ended up pulling the trigger on the body first wave of components yesterday, and the final build will go as follows:

- 1 piece quilted maple Soloist with quilted laminate top, routed for Strat neck pickup and wood mounted bridge humbucker, full neck heel, 3/4" side jack, Strat Tone hole #1 (where I'll place my volume pot), routed for a Floyd with angled neck pocket.  I will make the appropriate body/neck pocket adjustments to allow the bridge to rest flat on the body with action of about 3/64" from 12-22ish. 

- Next wave in 2 weeks (when the wife releases funds :icon_tongue:), Strat Warmoth Pro Q-sawn maple 22 fret neck, with ss6100 frets and pau ferro board, 1 11/16" R4 nut, Black Floyd Rose, and black d-tuna.

Hardware will be all black, and I will be doing an orange/amber dye job, finishing it off with multiple coats of tru oil as the top coat.  Pickup considerations are Suhr Aldrich w/SSV or Duncan Custom Custom/Screamin' Demon wSTK-10, manged via 3 way toggle.  I'm sure I'll tweak pickups after I hear how bright it turns out.  I'm on the fence about adding a second volume (I will not be using a tone control), and coil tap.

Sorry for the long post - just trying to set this up for future updates and "in process" pics! :rock-on:
 

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Between the Jackson's and newer Charvels I've had, I've really grown to like the compound radius.  In general I prefer flatter radii, but I do like a little tighter arc in the lower frets.  10-16" compound will be what I go with, and possibly the SRV profile.  I'd like something a little fatter, and I occassionally wrap my thumb around the top, so the assymetrical profile works.  I've also owned 2 US wolfgangs, which I really enjoyed, so that profile option is in play too.
 
Should clarify - aesthetically I'm going for a look similar to the "legendary" George Lynch REH video orange quilt strat... :party07:
 
Sounds like a good plan.

I'm not sure I'd put an oil finish on something as nice as a Soloist (or anything, for that matter. It's not a very robust finish) but it sounds like it's too late to get a Warmoth finish and lacquer chips/scratches if you so much as look at it wrong. On the other hand, oil is relatively simple to do, albeit time-consuming to get good results.

Don't forget to get stainless or gold frets on whatever neck you decide on.

I'll look forward to seeing how this comes out.
 
Thanks for the feedback.  I was planning on ss frets just for wearability, but had thought about gold too. 

Before committing to this project, my other option was a "build to order mahogany/unique choice Koa" with gold hardware (Suhr Reb Beach clone).  I think gold frets with that would have been great...but since I couldn't decide which way to go, I let my kids decide, so...maple it is!

I'm doing some background work today on finish options as this will be first "real" finish attempt (other than a previous tru oil body, and a half-assed attempt at an EVH stripe job on a Kramer Focus I had as a kid).  A lot of people are advocating the durability/ease of repair of the tru oil, and I had good luck with it first time out.

And to be honest, the Tru Oil seems less intimidating and will maybe have that breathability that's closer to bare wood.
 
here's the big pics of your body:
SL286A.jpg
SL286B.jpg


Oh, and stainless steel frets are amazing. You want them.
 
JF said:
And to be honest, the Tru Oil seems less intimidating and will maybe have that breathability that's closer to bare wood.

If your wood starts breathing, STAB IT! AGAIN AND AGAIN AND AGAIN! Don't stop until it's just a pile of toothpicks, then squirt lighter fluid on them and toss on a lit match. Then go get a shovel and bury the ashes, then bury the shovel someplace else. Move to a different county, and never speak of it.
 
Cagey said:
JF said:
And to be honest, the Tru Oil seems less intimidating and will maybe have that breathability that's closer to bare wood.

If your wood starts breathing, STAB IT! AGAIN AND AGAIN AND AGAIN! Don't stop until it's just a pile of toothpicks, then squirt lighter fluid on them and toss on a lit match. Then go get a shovel and bury the ashes, then bury the shovel someplace else. Move to a different county, and never speak of it.

Ha, nice!  Thanks for the pics AutoBat - I thought I'd be able to pull those out of my "watch list" for future use, but apparently they go away once the item's purchased.

After at looking at a bunch of color samples today, I'm questioning my "orange" thoughts.  Watched a video of a guy doing a "nuclear burst" - which I'd never recalled seeing before - and it looked really nice.  Mahogany red and lemon yellow Transtint I believe.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeERvZ8ca3o
 
JF said:
Ha, nice!  Thanks for the pics AutoBat - I thought I'd be able to pull those out of my "watch list" for future use, but apparently they go away once the item's purchased.
As far as I know the images are archived forever (or at least many years) as long as you know the item number, yours being SL286.
 
Oh ok.  When I tried to pull up the images, I got a message saying that the item was not longer available and could only see the small image in my watch list.  Weird.  Good to know for the future.  Thanks!
 
JF said:
Oh ok.  When I tried to pull up the images, I got a message saying that the item was not longer available and could only see the small image in my watch list.  Weird.  Good to know for the future.  Thanks!
The sales page is very much gone, but if you open a picture link to a current body & substitute your item number it appears.
 
Good to know.  Thanks!  Latest update looks like its in Oregon and should land on my door Monday. 

My birthday is next week and my son asked me what I wanted - I said how about some more guitar parts!  We'll see if mom comes through.

Any good recommendations where to purchase Transtint Dye?  Woodcraft has it and will ship to me (no local branch).
 
Came in the mail last night...


Got my orange trans tint dye and tru oil from Woodcraft this weekend, just going to pickup some Bullseye shellac and get started.  Neck is coming next week...
 

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Started the job tonight.  Its turning out exactly like I'd hoped.  I may have to sand back a few fuzzy's, but this is essentially how'd I like it to stay:
 

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I have it hanging to dry at the moment. 

I did notice that the wood got "fuzzy" in some spots.  I mixed the transtint with straight water (2 cups to .5oz color, which was the recommeded dilution, scaled down).  I'm guessing this is why some people use a denatured alcohol/water mix.

Should I:

Sand it back down to 220-300, then apply a final dye coat taking care to avoid raising the grain? 

Or

Leave the fuzzies and just start the clear coats?

I love the look of it - but am not sure how the fuzzies will impact the next finishing steps.
 
Cleanup the fuzzies - if you leave the grain raised, getting a uniform, glossy finish will elude you for a long time.
 
I agree with Bagman, you really wanna get the grain down to get that glossy finish at the end.
Looking schmick though, love it  :headbang:
 
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