treyhaislip
Junior Member
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Great thread, good read and good info!
Burnishing Raw Necks
- Thread starter Cagey
- Start date
Timmsie95
Hero Member
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Cagey said:Here's another example of what this burnishing does. This is a Canary on Canary neck...
I broke the corners on the headstock with some 220 grit, then everything got treated to a progression of 400, 800, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grits. Thing is slicker'n snot, and there's no finish. Plus, it doesn't mar like satin finishes do.
I know this is a few years old, but this makes me so happy, it's ridiculous. I'm doing this on a raw jackson neck that I have as soon as my micro mesh gets here...
PeterTSkelton
Junior Member
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I'm going to be doing this to my new Maple and Padouk necks as soon as I can lay my hands on the requisite papers. I specifically ordered the maple neck with no finish, warranty be damned, and the Padouk Warmoth will warranty without any finish, so I'm looking forward to a pleasant evening or two to be spent sanding these two down to a shine.
A stint spent as a wood turner showed me exactly how beautiful a finish you can get even on the softest of woods by successive and progressive application of fine mesh sandpaper, so I am particularly excited to set about my guitars with the stuff
A stint spent as a wood turner showed me exactly how beautiful a finish you can get even on the softest of woods by successive and progressive application of fine mesh sandpaper, so I am particularly excited to set about my guitars with the stuff
TonyFlyingSquirrel
Master Member
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As smooth as cream corn going down!
PeterTSkelton
Junior Member
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Well I just finished up with the maple neck. As delivered it was OK. I specifically ordered an unfinished neck as I don't like finished necks, and as received and assembled onto the nearest willing donor it felt pretty good, although if you just ran your hand or fingers along it you could feel that it wasn't very smooth.
I bought a pack of 400-1500 grit sanding cloths from amazon, two sheets each of 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1500 grit for less than $10, it'd be rude not to really.
I broke one sheet of each grit in half to get a piece about the size of my hand and set to work. No B-movies for me, I actually sat and listened to a podcast about brewing (my other main hobby) and went through the grits. No water or naphtha or anything, just a couple of minutes work with each grade of paper, wiping off the paper and neck periodically.
Even after just the first sanding with the 400 grit, there was a tangible improvement. Now after getting all the way down to 1500 grit, the back of the neck shines and feels super smooth.
The final finish reminds me very much of my finished pieces back when I used to turn wood. In those days, I'd sand down the pieces on the lathe to about 400-600 grit depending on the wood, then the final steps were to buff the pieces on cloth wheels with polishing compounds, with a final application of carnauba wax from a terry cloth polishing wheel. Obviously this requires much more equipment than some sandpaper, but the final finish was ultra smooth and incredibly durable.
I can't wait now to set about the padouk neck. Padouk is one of my favorite woods, and I know from experience just how beautiful it looks and feels when you give it a really high grade finish. Any other necks I buy from Warmoth will also get this treatment, its just that good.
I bought a pack of 400-1500 grit sanding cloths from amazon, two sheets each of 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1500 grit for less than $10, it'd be rude not to really.
I broke one sheet of each grit in half to get a piece about the size of my hand and set to work. No B-movies for me, I actually sat and listened to a podcast about brewing (my other main hobby) and went through the grits. No water or naphtha or anything, just a couple of minutes work with each grade of paper, wiping off the paper and neck periodically.
Even after just the first sanding with the 400 grit, there was a tangible improvement. Now after getting all the way down to 1500 grit, the back of the neck shines and feels super smooth.
The final finish reminds me very much of my finished pieces back when I used to turn wood. In those days, I'd sand down the pieces on the lathe to about 400-600 grit depending on the wood, then the final steps were to buff the pieces on cloth wheels with polishing compounds, with a final application of carnauba wax from a terry cloth polishing wheel. Obviously this requires much more equipment than some sandpaper, but the final finish was ultra smooth and incredibly durable.
I can't wait now to set about the padouk neck. Padouk is one of my favorite woods, and I know from experience just how beautiful it looks and feels when you give it a really high grade finish. Any other necks I buy from Warmoth will also get this treatment, its just that good.
Stewmac sells abrasive polishing cloths. 3M polishing papers. The big sheets are easy to use, stretched taut over the neck (still on the guitar and strung) and pulled back and forth like polishing a bowling ball or a shoe. They start at 400 grit, and go to 600 and then 1200. By this time its shiny. Maybe 5 minutes. Then the grit jumps to 4000, 8000, 12,000. This is too shiny, approaching the feel of clearcoat. 2000 grit is just about perfect. I did two roasted maple necks and I have a goncalo one waiting. It's amazing what a polish that roasted maple will take!
seattlesteveo
Newbie
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- 22
Just burnished the necks on my 2 builds, roasted Maple and Padouk, and love the results. Used 600, 1200 and then 2000 grit. They both came out super smooth and feel great when playing them. I would recommend this process for any neck that doesn't require a finish. So glad to have joined the forum and found this thread. Thanks!
ghostrider25
Senior Member
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- 267
This thread deserves a bump!
I did this process for 3 of my necks yesterday which I had previously smoothed out with 0000 steel wool. I thought that the steel wool did a great job and I couldn't imagine how it could possibly be any smoother.
Man, was I wrong.
I'm pretty sure these necks are the 3 smoothest things I've ever touched in my entire life!
I took the process out to 3000 grit. At 2000 it was still amazing, but for me the shine didn't really come on strong until the next step up to 2500. And at, 3000, it just left me speechless.
I did two roasted maple necks and a canary. The maples came out a little smoother which probably has something to do with the way the grain is on the canary. The wood experts can probably provide a good explanation on why that is. That being said, the canary is still a 95 on a smoothness scale of 1 to 10.
If you haven't done this to your raw neck yet, you don't know what you're missing!
:headbanging:
I did this process for 3 of my necks yesterday which I had previously smoothed out with 0000 steel wool. I thought that the steel wool did a great job and I couldn't imagine how it could possibly be any smoother.
Man, was I wrong.
I'm pretty sure these necks are the 3 smoothest things I've ever touched in my entire life!
I took the process out to 3000 grit. At 2000 it was still amazing, but for me the shine didn't really come on strong until the next step up to 2500. And at, 3000, it just left me speechless.
I did two roasted maple necks and a canary. The maples came out a little smoother which probably has something to do with the way the grain is on the canary. The wood experts can probably provide a good explanation on why that is. That being said, the canary is still a 95 on a smoothness scale of 1 to 10.
If you haven't done this to your raw neck yet, you don't know what you're missing!
:headbanging:
arealken
Senior Member
- Messages
- 226
A certain guy who does guitar work here and lives in Michigan burnished my Warmoth Rosewood /Ziricote neck, and also did new frets.
Not only does the neck now have a eye popping beauty I never new existed, but after the fret work, the guitar is far and away one of the best playing guitars I have ever had.
Not only does the neck now have a eye popping beauty I never new existed, but after the fret work, the guitar is far and away one of the best playing guitars I have ever had.
monchavo
Junior Member
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- 59
I am about to pull the trigger and go for it on my Warmoth neck collection. This will be quite an undertaking.
Maple - I have two Warmoth maple backed necks, both on Teles, both with Maccassar ebony boards. One is a regular and the other a Wolfgang.
Goncalo Alvez - I have a delicious Strat neck with a Pau Ferro board and 6115 stainless railroad sleepers on.
Canary - I have a delicious Canary Jazzmaster neck (with red blotches all over it - utterly gorgeous). It's already smooth af, I can't wait to feel what it's going to be like after this process
Lastly
My beloved all rosewood neck which was a $400 ultra-extravagance and is yet to find a suitable body. rrrrrrgh!!!
Cagey, I bought the Starke Matador brand (!?!) instead of 3M, hoping they'll do the trick.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009QZEQKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
thanks
Maple - I have two Warmoth maple backed necks, both on Teles, both with Maccassar ebony boards. One is a regular and the other a Wolfgang.
Goncalo Alvez - I have a delicious Strat neck with a Pau Ferro board and 6115 stainless railroad sleepers on.
Canary - I have a delicious Canary Jazzmaster neck (with red blotches all over it - utterly gorgeous). It's already smooth af, I can't wait to feel what it's going to be like after this process
Lastly
My beloved all rosewood neck which was a $400 ultra-extravagance and is yet to find a suitable body. rrrrrrgh!!!
Cagey, I bought the Starke Matador brand (!?!) instead of 3M, hoping they'll do the trick.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009QZEQKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
thanks
Michaelga
Junior Member
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- 164
I am currently finishing my maple neck with rosewood fingerboard in Tru oil now. I just discovered this thread. Since I've already applied five layers of Tru oil, if I burnish the neck down to 2000-grits, will there still be some finish left to seal the wood? Should I coat the neck with something to keep it from absorbing moisture?
Michael
Michael
Cagey
Mythical Status
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It would end up raw, so you'd still need to apply a hard finish.
Also, if you do this you'll need to add some steps starting with a coarser grit paper to get the tru-oil off. Probably start with a 220, then go to a 320 or 400 before following through with the 600 on up. Otherwise those finer papers will load up so fast you'd just be wasting time and paper.
I think, though, if you're going to finish it, you may as well keep going the way you are and go after it with some Scotchbrite at the end. Maybe let the oil cure for a couple weeks before you do. That'll end up pretty smooth.
Also, if you do this you'll need to add some steps starting with a coarser grit paper to get the tru-oil off. Probably start with a 220, then go to a 320 or 400 before following through with the 600 on up. Otherwise those finer papers will load up so fast you'd just be wasting time and paper.
I think, though, if you're going to finish it, you may as well keep going the way you are and go after it with some Scotchbrite at the end. Maybe let the oil cure for a couple weeks before you do. That'll end up pretty smooth.
stratamania
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If you are doing Tru-oil on the neck there is no need to burnish it.
Depending on how many layers of tru-oil are used it can be anywhere from matt to shiny. Either way, it is not sticky and is very playable.
In between layers of tru oil, the lightest touch with some 600 is enough to take off any marks. If I want a shinier result after a final light coat of tru-oil which is left to dry, I rub it with a cloth (old cotton lint free T shirt will do) you can also apply at this stage a light coating of Birchwood Caseys Gun Stock Wax and buff it with the same cloth.
So basically either burnish or do a finish. But you can't do both (at least not on the same neck)
Depending on how many layers of tru-oil are used it can be anywhere from matt to shiny. Either way, it is not sticky and is very playable.
In between layers of tru oil, the lightest touch with some 600 is enough to take off any marks. If I want a shinier result after a final light coat of tru-oil which is left to dry, I rub it with a cloth (old cotton lint free T shirt will do) you can also apply at this stage a light coating of Birchwood Caseys Gun Stock Wax and buff it with the same cloth.
So basically either burnish or do a finish. But you can't do both (at least not on the same neck)
TonyFlyingSquirrel
Master Member
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I Tru Oiled my baritele neck with just enough to grain fill & level, & it's stood up quite well over the past 5 or 6 years here in the Pacific Northwest without so much as a truss rod adjustment.
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