7/8th P90 Plank of Possibility
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rockandroller
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Went across the river into Minnesota and visited Menards today. ... They had Minwax transparent blue oil finish on sale, and I considered thst for a few minutes til i noticed it was pretty much 'Wedgewood' blue (I already have a wedgewood blue strat, which I have to keep as it has an original psychedelic painting on it)..
They also had the poplar bleaching powder, which I bought since it was as only six bux!
Reading the instructions, its a pretty fiddly process (simple, but a lot of steps of messing around with hot water). But it would be nice to bleach some of the green/gray tone out, so that the entire body could be more uniformly amber.
After spending an hour in the store today reading the fine print on dozens of labels of various stains and polys, oil and water based... Im thinking the simplest rout will just be to try to bring the overall tone of the body into something more beige/amber like the neck...
They also had the poplar bleaching powder, which I bought since it was as only six bux!
Reading the instructions, its a pretty fiddly process (simple, but a lot of steps of messing around with hot water). But it would be nice to bleach some of the green/gray tone out, so that the entire body could be more uniformly amber.
After spending an hour in the store today reading the fine print on dozens of labels of various stains and polys, oil and water based... Im thinking the simplest rout will just be to try to bring the overall tone of the body into something more beige/amber like the neck...
rockandroller
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Speaking of the Neck, it fits really nice, like every Warmoth!
rockandroller
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The fretboard is considerably more 'amber' in tone, so my strategy revolves around tinting the body a bit more in that direction.
The color contrast best demonstrated here...
The color contrast best demonstrated here...
rockandroller
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My plan is to take the top half of the trem cavity and just apply some amber stain, and see how that works over the darker greenish-grey parts...
If it comes out 'more muddy green than amber', my plan B involves taking the bottom half of that cavity and testing the acid bleaching technique .. and IF bleaching works; the finish strategy then becoming "bleach, then dye, then wipe-on top oil"...
If it comes out 'more muddy green than amber', my plan B involves taking the bottom half of that cavity and testing the acid bleaching technique .. and IF bleaching works; the finish strategy then becoming "bleach, then dye, then wipe-on top oil"...
rockandroller
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PS, i guess i can do stain / bleach testing in the pickup routes too... Nobody will see them after the pickguard is mounted...
rockandroller
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Did a little stain test in pickup cavity ( no bleach, just stain) and it seems pleasant enough. But then I realized that this oil based Varathane product is not a "micro porous" stain and would probably inhibit the Polyx-oil from getting a good bond. Switching to a SamaN Water-based Wood Stain (on its way here from Quebec, since nobody sells it locally)
saman.ca
Water based stain - SamaN - Stains and varnishes
You’ve been thinking about staining your cabinets and some moldings for a long time? Simplify your life with SamaN's water based wood stain. Trust yourself completely; with its unique reactivating formula, you won’t leave any marks and the wood grain won’t be raised. Our high-performance and...
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rockandroller
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There's my Quebec water dye test; quite promising as the grey-green parts end up just looking a darker brown. Reddish brown tone similar to the Canary... I think "close enough for rock and roll".
rockandroller
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Aaaannnnddd... KAHLER hard tail arrived today!
With the neck and pickguard in place you can see the intonation point is just about the edge of the pickguard
With the special 'long fork' saddles they sent me, the bridge can sit back a couple mm further than I originally estimated
Meaning I wont have very much pickguard to trim!
But that's getting ahead of things, have that Esquire on the bench now to assemble first!
With the neck and pickguard in place you can see the intonation point is just about the edge of the pickguard
With the special 'long fork' saddles they sent me, the bridge can sit back a couple mm further than I originally estimated
Meaning I wont have very much pickguard to trim!
But that's getting ahead of things, have that Esquire on the bench now to assemble first!
rockandroller
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Well, the SamaN waterbased stain has done a good job of evening out the mineral streaks
The final coats of oil finish should bring out a bit more of the woodgrain (this poplar is quite fine-grained)
I wanted to do the first coat of Osmo today, but discovered that my 2/3rds empty can of Osmo Polyx-Oil has "gelled" (oops). Toyed with the idea of ordering some Rubio Monocoat, but I couldn't find any definitive info that it would work over top of this stain (they made a big point of insisting on bare wood). Anyway, I found an alternative wipe on top coat product, should be here next week...
The final coats of oil finish should bring out a bit more of the woodgrain (this poplar is quite fine-grained)
I wanted to do the first coat of Osmo today, but discovered that my 2/3rds empty can of Osmo Polyx-Oil has "gelled" (oops). Toyed with the idea of ordering some Rubio Monocoat, but I couldn't find any definitive info that it would work over top of this stain (they made a big point of insisting on bare wood). Anyway, I found an alternative wipe on top coat product, should be here next week...
ragamuffin
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Looks great!
JohnnyHardtail
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I didn’t expect stained poplar would look as good as that. It’s a minor miracle.
rockandroller
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Well, the SamaN water based stain performed pretty much as advertised: they claimed it would not raise the grain and 95% of this body stayed smooth. There was a very slight grain raising in the end grain, nothing that didn't "dust off" when I feathered it back with the 3M 0000 steel wool pads. This after a couple of days of drying indoors.
Today I wiped it with a tack cloth and then applied the first coat of "Tried and True" Original Wood Finish (polymerized Linseed and beeswax) and was happy to observe that there wasn't the slightest hint of the underlying stain running. I wiped on the thinnest possible coating, waited an hour, then wiped it dry to remove any excess (it was pretty much completely dry).
Now a 24 hour wait, then another dust off with the 0000 wool pad, then the same 'thinnest possible coat', wait an hour, then wipe dry again and wait another 24 hours.
After that, maybe a third coat, maybe not...
Very bad lighting, but here it is after wiping dry the first coat, actual color is a bit redder than shown, and the TaT adds some nice ambering
Today I wiped it with a tack cloth and then applied the first coat of "Tried and True" Original Wood Finish (polymerized Linseed and beeswax) and was happy to observe that there wasn't the slightest hint of the underlying stain running. I wiped on the thinnest possible coating, waited an hour, then wiped it dry to remove any excess (it was pretty much completely dry).
Now a 24 hour wait, then another dust off with the 0000 wool pad, then the same 'thinnest possible coat', wait an hour, then wipe dry again and wait another 24 hours.
After that, maybe a third coat, maybe not...
Very bad lighting, but here it is after wiping dry the first coat, actual color is a bit redder than shown, and the TaT adds some nice ambering
