Well, I have the 500k pot Warmoth sells, which is labeled as audio taper. That said, I don't really notice the same effect on my tone knob, which is the same (with the addition of a cap).
So i just finished my first build, and all is great, except for an issue with my sole volume knob. While it does technically work, about 80% of the volume swell takes place in the last quarter or so of the rotation (or the first quarter when turning the volume down). Does this sound like a...
I got some light-colored grain filler so that I could color itself and make varieties for both walnut and mahogany. I understand I'm looking for acrylics, but I'm a little in the dark about whether I should be looking for dye, paint, etc.
Any recommendations/advice?
The LMII Tru-oiling guide calls for using the Birchwood-Casey sealer before grain filling. Is this stuff functionally sanding sealer?
Furthermore, although I'm planning on using tung, not Tru-, wouldn't the sealer prevent the oil from penetrating?
I'm going to be getting started on a tung-oil project soon, and am curious what to do with the binding during the preparation sanding and the sanding between coats. I'm assuming the oil itself will wipe right off the binding without effect. Can you sand right over the binding or will it scuff it...
I'm trying to decide whether I should go red or natural, but I can't seem to find pictures of the red filler. Has anyone on here done it and have pictures I can see? Thanks!
I hit a stalemate in my design process and just can't pick one or the other. Somebody please throw me pros and cons to help me decide.
I'm planning a flat walnut top on a mahogany body. I'm also referring the Gotoh 510 listed here, not the others listed in the series.
Thanks!
Is the LPS body here really just the same as the LP body with the extra cut? Maybe my eyes are just playing tricks on me, but I'd swear the LPS is a little smaller all around.
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