The Grain Filler Thread

I have decided to go with swamp ash for the body of my next build. It should get interesting since I am not experienced in finish work.

I want a solid color, but obviously need a smooth surface to apply it to.
 
DangerousR6 said:
Firebird said:
Tonar8353 said:
Im curious if using a sealer like bullseye before gainfilling mahagany is going to make it less likely to sand out of the pours??

With traditional fillers the advantage of sealing prior to grain filling it twofold, many grain fillers tend to color the wood to some extent so if the surface is sealed then the natural color of the wood changes less.  This is really important when using dark grain filler where one only wants the dark color in the deep grain of the wood. The second advantage is it helps but does not eliminate the filler from shrinking in as bad as it does on unsealed wood.  Unsealed wood draws moister out of fillers so the materials tend to shrink more dramatically than when it is setting on a seal surface.

The best way to seal wood prior to filling is with wash coats meaning heavily thinned.  A wash coat tends to flow down into the pours better and soak into the wood more deeply so that it has a more effective sealing action.

I have a related question to this, but just on a different wood type.  I have Timbermate grain filler and I was testing it on a small piece of wood, but I didn't like how much it tinted the wood and also tinted darker in some spots.  It filled the grain just fine, but I was wondering for a Goncallo headstock could someone get away with just using Zinsser's sanding sealer.  The chunk of wood isn't the same tint or pore quality of Goncallo, but using a small chunk of cotton fabric around a few cotton balls I was able to apply several thin layers which made the shallow grain dissapear alltogether.  To test this I applied grain filler on half and nothing on the other half. It wouldn't work on most woods, but it seems like you can apply a few thin bonding layers and sand down, then build up more layers without a grain filler.  If this method is bogus, I could very well apply the method that you just said Tonar.  I also would like to add that the Timbermate has a smell that is closely related to dookie. :laughing7:
Not sure why you would even want to do that to Goncalo, it doesn't need a finish. truthfully I wouldn't do anything to Goncalo unless for some odd reason I wanted say a headstock face to match a painted body... :dontknow:

Believe me, I am having an internal battle over it, but the idea was to finish just the face of the headstock to seal in some thin chrome vinyl decals.  I am glad that I am testing these materials out on scrap and test decals before applying to the headstock.  I am finding that shellac loves wood, but hates my decal and won't build up over it.  I may have to consider poly as the decal manufacturer suggested.  Whatever the case may be, it's not going on my headstock until it looks right or I can do it right.  :-\
 
Street Avenger said:
I have decided to go with swamp ash for the body of my next build. It should get interesting since I am not experienced in finish work.

I want a solid color, but obviously need a smooth surface to apply it to.
my first build was swamp ash and I did a stain, even then I did many a coat of filler, that stuff just soaks it up and I was using a thin clear filler.If you are going to go solid color paint I would use a thick filler and be patient. Hardest thing to do is let the filler dry enough to sand, noting ruins a job faster than bits of it lifting out and scratching the rest of the surface.
 
I used Bartley Wood Filler purchased from ReRanch for my last Swamp Ash build, also works well on Mahognany, etc. ReRanch is currently of of stock, apparently the Bartley company has been sold.  Below is an explanation from another supplier...

"On January 4th 2010, the company that made Bartley productions went out of business. Despite assurances from the new owner that Bartley Stains and Filler would be available, they have not resumed manufacture of this product. We are replacing the Bartley product with Behlen Pore-o-Pac."

If you go with a DIY nitro finish you'll need a good filler for Ash, etc. And probably little or no filler for a well made Alder body. Once the body is prepped with filler, sand and seal is applied followed by a ReRanch white primer base for solid colors. The primer can also serve as a spot filler, sands level easily.
 
crystalac is really thin and takes a while to dry, you will need to let it dry 3 or more days or it will load up and gouge itself. Not a good choice for a real open grain like swamp ash'
yes not natural, Poly based is it not?
 
While talking to my luthier this week, he suggested an epoxy grain filler. I can't remember the name right off hand, but he said it's available at ACE Hardware, and that he has had very good results with it.
 
Street Avenger said:
While talking to my luthier this week, he suggested an epoxy grain filler. I can't remember the name right off hand, but he said it's available at ACE Hardware, and that he has had very good results with it.
Uhhhhhhhhhhmmmmmm.........Z-poxy perhaps... :dontknow:
 
The LMII Tru-oiling guide calls for using the Birchwood-Casey sealer before grain filling. Is this stuff functionally sanding sealer?

Furthermore, although I'm planning on using tung, not Tru-, wouldn't the sealer prevent the oil from penetrating?
 
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