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Why all you Sperzel Trim locker users break strings

stubhead

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I just put a Warhead boatneck on my criminally-neglected "Mustang-shaped" guitar - neglected because the standard thins are bad for my hands, and I can't fool around on that. But the Sperzels - I can see exactly why/how they could break string after string after string - and it's obvious that you-all were Reading the Instructions.

There's any number of things where you need to do the Right Thing, not what they Tell You to Do.

What the instructions say is to pull the string tight, lock it, and twirl the button up to pitch. The problem there is that you will often end up with the string tension pulling straight across the little beveled hole. Snap! Snap! Snap! You need to leave enough string to at least get the hole over on the opposite side, 1/2 turn or even better 3/4 of a turn. The string needs to pull against the backside of the tuner post, not directly across the edge of the hole. Voila! Viola? It's like, force vectors & molecules and other smart-people stuff.

You might think somebody smart enough to make a tuner would also be able to articulate how to use their product - but then - you'd think a lot of things, huh? :icon_thumright: Think about how somebody has to carry something heavy braced against their back. I'm not sure why, but think about it anyway.
 
I tried that too.  The first set of strings installed on mine was done by the tech that did the fret and nut work.  He put them in, pulled tight, locked, and their final in tune resting place was with about a 1/4 turn +/- an RCH.  This broke 2.

When I replaced them, I ran them in tight from the opposite direction; coming in from north of the headstock going back towards the body.  The final resting place was at about 1/4 turn +/- that usual RCH.  Though a 1/4 turn, it was 3/4 of a wrap, the string penetration of the exit string is perpendicular to the wrapped string.

With a staggered tuner on a reverse headstock, this puts the big E on the shortest post that it already didn't have much room to wrap around.

Most importantly, they still broke, and for another 1/4 to half wrap minimum, the locking advantage was nullified.
 
The GFS knockoffs don't come with any such misleading instructions, so I never did it that way. It was kind of obvious to me with an engineering background, that you want the barrrel told hold the tension and do the real "locking". The locking screw is just to hold it tight until you can get past 180 degrees. (I think 270 is probably ideal. More than 180 and less than 360.)

I think the operative concept of locking tuners is to 1) avoid string against string wraps, and a distant 43rd to minimize the stretchy length of string around the post.

The pin and corner of the hole are relatively sharp radii  compared to the tuner barrel. (Stress concentrators)
 
I'm sorry, STDC, I didn't realize you had already done the "scratch-hmm-hmm" part of the research. !'m about 2/3 of the way down the home stretch of making a decision to start working on other people's guitars - my larger worry about it is getting too much too soon, as I have to be careful about my stupid hands/wrist swelling/pain foolishness. But the only other guy in about 50 miles in any direction doing stuff is a friend and ex-bandmate, and he hates fretwork as much as me! So we could split the misery...

The point is I need to make sure that stuff on other people's guitars either works or comes from a place that has very good customer service. I can tell you right away that Sperzel's e-mail habits (or non-habits, actually) are atrocious and I'm going to call them tomorrow, at 216=281=6868. I need ONE black non=locker or even better, a locker that'll take a 0.066" string*, as I may have to go there (mo details coming... when my neck does!)


*(Anyone know where to get a 0.0666" one? :evil4: :evil4: :evil4:)


Now, if I were you - or any of the other breakers who have tried regular ol' logic - I would call Sperzel, as well as e-mail them, (and tell them to read their fudging E-MAILS!) Feel free to cut, paste or mutilate here:

Dear Mr. & Mrs. Sperzel, I've been hoping to try your tuners for some time now, but I am having major problems with strings breaking when I tune to pitch. I have tried leaving a bit longer wrap to avoid a direct break over the hole, and I tried XXX and YYY and ZZZ. I know that these tuners are standard on some very fine instruments, and that couldn't be the case if other people's Sperzels were breaking half the strings they use! Unfortunately, I don't seem to be alone in this - I am wondering if there was a particular fluctuation in quality control that resulted in some sub-par tuners reaching the market.

I have asked about how to fix this on the Unofficial Warmoth Forum, TDPRI, the Gear Page, the Les Paul Forum, the Steel Guitar Forum, Strat-talk Forum and frickin' DEAR ABBY, and not only does there seem to be no easy fix, but there are others who share the same problem. I am hoping we can work out a positive resolution, and I'll be able to share it with these other people. As my business levels increase, I am in ever-increasing need of products that I, and others, can count on. Thanx, & oodles of sloppy drooling smoochies!

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

If you can't tell where the money shots in that is, it's the parts in bold. This internets thing ought to be useful for something, anyway. The only caveat is, I would make absolutely sure I DID have a Q: up on; the  Unofficial Warmoth Forum, TDPRI, the Gear Page, the Les Paul Forum, the Steel Guitar Forum, Strat-talk Forum and frickin' DEAR ABBY. But start from the ironclad assumption that you are going to have working tuners from Sperzel and it's not going to cost you any more money.

I do think they at least get a chance here - Alphonso just may have been having a really bad day on the post-hole radius-chamfer-buff-o-tron, that whole month?  They really ARE the choice of many good luthiers, it seems to split around evenly with Schallers, Sperzels and Hipshots, with Grovers and the better (house-branded) Pings coming in at the next tier down. I've been trying to figure out if I could fit a non-locking post into a locking tuners housing just for cosmetics (un-uh) and I had a couple apart with 10X and 20X magnification at hand. They are made to tight tolerances, beat the heck out of Planet Waves and Grovers at least. But I consider frets that fret, tuners that tune and pickups that pick up to be kinda important...  :sad1: and sparkles! Mo sparkles!  :cool01:
 
I could go out of my way to bring it to their attention.  I could also post my legitimate experiences on an internet forum.  They do show up in internet searches afterall.  In 2008, coincidentally having Warmoth parts on order, I found this forum by internet searching for a custom neck plate.  Low and behold, in this big world, the guy making them lived 45 minutes away!  With a set of guitar tuners, they have 6 chances and blew 3 of 'em.  I'm just moving on.

But I digress.  I've had negative experiences with parts and orders from Jackson Amps and Glendale, and this after direct one on one conversations with the owner and co-owner of both of those companies concerning my purchase(s).  In either case, telling everyone I know of my experience, in person and on the internet, does as much to hurt the brand as anything.  Both experiences left a bad taste.

I've had a few negative Warmoth experiences too, but their customer service quelled any issues, so I keep coming back.
 
I use standard lockers on my G LPJ, and had a set of trim loks on a electromatic for a while.
never had breakage issues of any sort.....


But I never read instructions...
:laughing7:
 
I've had Sperzels on my Strat since it's conception in 2006ish, and I have broken maybe 5 or 6 strings on it in that time.  I use the pull tight/lock down method too, so I don't know what's up with youse guyses tuners.






I do wish that they had a finer gear ratio.  12:1 is a bit rough on the low E string.  The slightest turn affects its in-tuniness, but they have been rock solid as far as holding tune/string breakage.
 
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