What is the best choice of locking nut between the r2,r3,r4?

[hawcer]

I'm installing a floyd tremolo in place of a standard 6 screw vintage type trem. I've measured the factory nut at 1.675" wide. That's about 42.5mm.  It falls right between the R2 and R3 widths. The factory string spacing is almost on par with the Floyd R2 nut.The factory radius is 12deg, same as the R3 nut.

I also have big fingers, so the R4 string spacing could be more comfortable to play, but I don't want the strings too close to the edge of the fretboard.

I'm probably over thinking the whole thing.

Floyd rose nut chart for reference:

 

[stratamania]

What do you mean by a 12-degree radius as there is no such thing?

I assume you mean a 12-inch radius.

I think you will have to figure out what nut you need based on your measurements and preference.

 

[hawcer]

Yeah, I meant 12" radius.

I guess I'm asking if is better to go with a slightly narrower or a slightly wider nut than the neck measurements. Does it even matter? I just don't want to end up with overhang or small gaps on either side of the nut.

 

[dmraco]

IT looks like you have a 1 11/16 nut width.  So you absolutely cannot use the R2.  You can only use r2 on the 1 5/8.  Your MM do fall in between but I am assuming you have 1 11/16 because 90% of the Warmoth necks have that width.

I have used the R3 on almost all my builds.  If you have bigger hands the r4 may be better.  You make a good point and the r4 will push the strings a bit further out.

I would go for the r3 becuase I like the extra space.  If you find the strings too close, swap to an r4.  They and inexpensive and very easy to change.

 

[hawcer]

I'll give the R3 a shot.
Thanks man!
:headbanging:

 

[stratamania]

You may find retrofitting a neck with a Floyd nut less than straightforward. What neck do you actually have?

 

[hawcer]

I've done it before without any issues.  I just have to make sure I have a good flat base milled to mount the the new locking nut to.

Unlike fenders, where the nut slot is only in the fretboard. This neck's nut sits in front of the fretboard and the nut slot is cut slightly deeper than the fret board. so If I remove the material just in front of the nut slot, it looks like I'll have just enough surface to mount the locking nut. A shim might be required.

I could just go the easy way and install a Kahler string lock. I'd rather not though.

Oh, it's a Kramer Baretta "Special". I like the guitar, hate the tremolo. I have a handful of Floyds (not the cheap junk) laying around, but no nuts to test fit with.

I think I'm going to go with the Chrome Ping made Floyd I have. It it almost the same thing as the OEM FRT-0XXXX I have in black chrome.  Steel saddles even.

 

[stratamania]

OK, measure, measure, cut  :icon_thumright:

 

[hawcer]

OK, measure, measure, cut  :icon_thumright:

LOL. That's what got me here in the first place. I've measured too many times and started doubting myself.

 

[Cagey]

Hehe! Yeah. Analysis paralysis.

Strings close to the edge of the fretboard up by the nut aren't as much of a problem as they are down the fretboard a bit. Bridge saddle spacing gets to be the more crucial dimension.

Also, forgoing the locking nut is a viable option now, too. Ol' Floyd didn't have the luxury of locking tuners like we do now, which is why he put the locking nut on in the first place. I've found that using locking tuners and a well-cut nut works as well as a locking nut, so I never install them. My vibratos all return to neutral quite nicely and I don't have tuning issues.

 

[hawcer]

Hehe! Yeah. Analysis paralysis.

Strings close to the edge of the fretboard up by the nut aren't as much of a problem as they are down the fretboard a bit. Bridge saddle spacing gets to be the more crucial dimension.

Also, forgoing the locking nut is a viable option now, too. Ol' Floyd didn't have the luxury of locking tuners like we do now, which is why he put the locking nut on in the first place. I've found that using locking tuners and a well-cut nut works as well as a locking nut, so I never install them. My vibratos all return to neutral quite nicely and I don't have tuning issues.

Yeah, the string spacing at the bridge could cause more issues than the nut ever will.

I can manage installing locking nuts, drilling for bridge anchors and posts,and any necessary routing. But for some reason Nuts, files, and me just don't get along. In the long run, it's just easier to lock the strings down with a locking nut and be done with it.

I do understand that there are far more ways to get what you want out of a standard nut...I'm just not there yet.

Some people really hate the double locking trems and some don't.  I've never had any issues with them. I like the fact that a guitar can sit for a few months and still be in tune when I decide to play it again. I have yet to find that in any guitars I have except the ones with floyds or Steinbergers and the one Meyers Custom I have that has Sperzel locking tuners. I replaced the worn out Badass bridge with one of those Schaller fine tuner bridges you can't find anymore. It's always in tune.

 

[AirCap]

Gotta back up Cagey here..... Locking nuts suck - they are so 20th century. Get hip and get some locking tuners. More affordable hardware, much cheaper on the labor, and the darn things work great.

 

[hawcer]

Gotta back up Cagey here..... Locking nuts suck - they are so 20th century. Get hip and get some locking tuners. More affordable hardware, much cheaper on the labor, and the darn things work great.

I already have an R3 on the way with some other parts I needed.

I have 4 more floyds in my spare parts collection. Maybe I'll try paring one up with some locking tuners on the next project.

Probably not the next project as it's going to be headless with a Floyd Speedloader bridge.

EDIT: It's just my cruddy opinion. But a good locking nut nullifies the importance of having grade AAA tuners.  :icon_jokercolor:

 

[Cagey]

Sure. Once the nut's locked, you could cut the headstock off.

 

[stratamania]

Sure. Once the nut's locked, you could cut the headstock off.

All good till you want to change strings  :laughing7:

 

[Cagey]

Nobody ever said changing strings on a Floyd-equipped guitar was easy  :icon_biggrin:

 

[AirCap]

Sure. Once the nut's locked, you could cut the headstock off.

Proven. Had a client do a little spin one night to cap off a solo and broke the peghead off his spanking new Hamer Steve Stevens when he smacked a cymbal stand. The locking nut kept it in tune all night.

Monday morning he was in the shop first thing to get the peghead glued back on....

 

[Cagey]

Next to stupidity, cymbals have to be the most dangerous things on a stage :laughing7:

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Cymbals are saw blades to guitarists & bassists & vocalists

 

[stratamania]

Nobody ever said changing strings on a Floyd-equipped guitar was easy  :icon_biggrin:

I don't find them a problem, but I have had at least one guitar with a Floyd locking system since '85. When I started using non-locking and fixed bridges again it just seems too easy in a way...I will say that its good there is more choice available these days to keep in tune to a greater of lesser degree.