what do you drive ?

[DocNrock]

'91 Toyota MR2. and to the guy who got the GT-R...should have gotten a GT3 RS, imo. the GT-R has too much electronic bullcrap. or a used NSX.

Interesting.  Have you driven a GT-R?  I regularly pass GT3 RS's and NSX's on track days. It doesn't hurt that mine has been modified to put 540 awhp and awtq to the ground on a Mustang dyno.  

540 hp on a Mustang Dyno is pretty stout, especially with AWD.  Mustang Dynos usually account for about 15%-18% drivetrain loss on AWD cars, so it's probably making a good 620 hp "at the crank," maybe more...

A stock GT-R puts down about 380 awhp on this particular dyno, so probably closer to 680 at the crank.   :laughing7:

http://www.sp-power.com/brents-r35-gtr-spe-tuned/

Here is a lap at Auto Club Speedway:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_C1K_hsANA

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

'91 Toyota MR2. and to the guy who got the GT-R...should have gotten a GT3 RS, imo. the GT-R has too much electronic bullcrap. or a used NSX.

Interesting.  Have you driven a GT-R?  I regularly pass GT3 RS's and NSX's on track days. It doesn't hurt that mine has been modified to put 540 awhp and awtq to the ground on a Mustang dyno.  

540 hp on a Mustang Dyno is pretty stout, especially with AWD.  Mustang Dynos usually account for about 15%-18% drivetrain loss on AWD cars, so it's probably making a good 620 hp "at the crank," maybe more...

A stock GT-R puts down about 380 awhp on this particular dyno, so probably closer to 680 at the crank.   :laughing7:

http://www.sp-power.com/brents-r35-gtr-spe-tuned/

Here is a lap at Auto Club Speedway:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_C1K_hsANA

That's it?  380 whp?  That just seems really low.  I"m not sure what the hp figures are on the pre-2011s, but I think it's 480 hp?  The new 2011s are punched out to 530-540 hp, plus got a few software upgrades for the transmission, re-tuned suspension, etc.

There are a lot of different opinions on Mustang Vs. DynoJet, but personally, I'd rather dyno on a Mustang dyno.  I personally believe that going conservative is better.  The problem is that people take dyno results for more than they're worth; I call it "dyno racing."  Dynos are really nothing more than a tuning tool.  There are all sorts of stories of 15%-18% differences, etc., but it's all how the shop calibrates the dyno.

I'd personally guess that if you're making 380 whp on a Mustang Dyno, that car's probably making around 580 hp.  There's definitely not going to be a drivetrain loss of such a high caliber...

 

[DocNrock]

^^^Sorry for the misunderstanding.  That 380 on a stocker is at the wheels.  480 on a 2009 at the crank is stock.  This dyno reads very low.  I agree that a dyno is a tuning tool and not a "be all end all" measure of power.  Dynos of all brands can be calibrated.  SP Engineering's is calibrated a bit on the low side.  It is definitely known as a "heartbreaker."  But 540 on a "heartbreaker" doesn't break my heart, at all. 

It is the USDM 2012 that takes crank hp to 530, I believe. The 2010 to 2011 USDM were 485 crank hp.

A simple ratio and proportion calculation led me to the 680 crank hp.  If 480 crank hp is equivalent to 380 awhp, then x crank hp is equivalent to 540 awhp.  Do the math and it comes out to 682 and change at the crank 

I'll also add in that the track video was done before my most recent upgrades.  At that time, the car was making about 490 awhp and awtq.  I have yet to get the car to the track with the new parts and tune, but that is coming in May!  :headbang1:

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

^^^Sorry for the misunderstanding.  That 380 on a stocker is at the wheels.  480 on a 2009 at the crank is stock.  This dyno reads very low.  I agree that a dyno is a tuning tool and not a "be all end all" measure of power.  Dynos of all brands can be calibrated.  SP Engineering's is calibrated a bit on the low side.  It is definitely known as a "heartbreaker."  But 540 on a "heartbreaker" doesn't break my heart, at all. 

It is the USDM 2012 that takes crank hp to 530, I believe. The 2010 to 2011 USDM were 485 crank hp.

A simple ratio and proportion calculation led me to the 680 crank hp.  If 480 crank hp is equivalent to 380 awhp, then x crank hp is equivalent to 540 awhp.  Do the math and it comes out to 682 and change at the crank 

I'll also add in that the track video was done before my most recent upgrades.  At that time, the car was making about 490 awhp and awtq.  I have yet to get the car to the track with the new parts and tune, but that is coming in May!   :headbang1:

I had my Camaro dynoed on a Mustang dyno, and was not happy with the shop at all.  They just didn't seem to know what they were doing, and later I found out that this shop is notorious for being a bit "incompetent."  I laid down 290 whp, 300 lb-ft tq, which I thought was super-low.  Besides this shop being incompetent, their dyno is also supposedly a "heartbreaker."  Add 2+2, and that's what ya get...

Anyway, the guy just couldn't sem to "get it" without the wheels starting to spin.  I was frustrated, but by this time, I just wanted to get my car out of there.

I've driven some pretty powerful cars, and I know for fact that my car's putting down more than 290 whp.  While I went with a fairly mild build compression-wise, I understand it's not making as much hp as it could be, but I'm planning on adding an ATI Procharger.  The heads I had put on it were also designed for forced induction applications.  I went with a set of Trick Flows.  As-is, I would estimate that it's probably putting down closer to 320 whp, still not super-high, but considering a stock 1994 LT1's putting out 275 hp at the crank, that's not too bad.

 

[DocNrock]

^^^I feel for ya, bro.  It is hard to find a competent tuning shop.  Your local Camaro forum will likely be your best bet, but you might have to travel a bit.  I had to go from San Diego to LA, but it was worth it.

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

^^^I feel for ya, bro.  It is hard to find a competent tuning shop.  Your local Camaro forum will likely be your best bet, but you might have to travel a bit.  I had to go from San Diego to LA, but it was worth it.

I don't wanna knock the good ol' people of West Virginia, but...  :help:

I've been the victim of many incompetent fools out this direction, even by shops that have come highly recommended.  Even the engine builder, who apparently has a good rep out my direction screwed my car up.  I have about 35,000 miles on a $7000 engine (including labor) with an oil leak, and he absolutely refused to take responsibility for it, nevermind I found out from other mechanics that he was using the incorrect bolts, and even found a steel screw in my timing cover.  Unfortunately, I can't prove he did it, blah blah blah.  It was also discovered AFTER the warranty period (of course...).

It doesn't seem to matter where I take that car, NOBODY knows how to work on it, for some reason.  The past few times, I've just sucked it up, applied some vaseline, and taken it to the dealer.

 

[pabloman]

That's what you get for driving a Subie. :icon_biggrin: 

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

That's what you get for driving a Subie. :icon_biggrin: 

It's the Camaro that nobody knows how to work on.  :icon_tongue:  The Subaru has been AWESOME.  :headbang:

 

[pabloman]

That's what you get for driving a Subie. :icon_biggrin:  

 

[pabloman]

Not sure why that posted twice. The Nissan dealer I worked for was also a Subaru dealer. Subarus were almost fictitious until I moved back to Colorado. It's mostly a new age hippie car though. Or a mobile dog kennel.

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

Not sure why that posted twice. The Nissan dealer I worked for was also a Subaru dealer. Subarus were almost fictitious until I moved back to Colorado. It's mostly a new age hippie car though. Or a mobile dog kennel.

An STi is anything but a mobile dog kennel or hippie car.  Take my word for it.  As for the Outbacks and Foresters, I'd agree with you.

 

[Graffiti62]

In the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, Subarus are all over the place. Due to Lake Superior, twelve feet of snow in a season is deemed a "lean" year. Many people buy them because of the fact that its a car with real all-wheel drive capability. Not that the AWD is needed, but it does get through stuff pretty easily.

I'm not a fan of cars this week, primarily my wife's Montana. On Tuesday, she had a flat that I had to change along the side of the road. Not that its anybody's fault, but everything went wrong:  the factory tire iron broke. the flat tire wouldn't come off, the spare was flat, and I had to roll around and jack up a car in the snow. Then yesterday, she was driving home, saw two deer on the side of the road, and instead of stopping and letting them get back into the woods, she swerved around them, while one was running right into her. She broke the turn signal lens, put a crack in the bumper and pushed the right front fender back to where you were unable to open the door. I was able to tape the lens back in to last long enough til I buy a new one, and I had to cut down an old broomstick to pinch between the fender and the door to pry it back forward and out, so the door wouldn't cave the fender back in. At least, being a unibody van, I can easily replace the fender without taking the front core apart if I ever decide to fix it. I also plan on working on the gap again when the weather gets warmer, as the fender should be a little more malleable. My only real p!ss me off is that I cracked the paint right along the edge, and the fender is a little wavy right by the door.

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

In the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, Subarus are all over the place. Due to Lake Superior, twelve feet of snow in a season is deemed a "lean" year. Many people buy them because of the fact that its a car with real all-wheel drive capability. Not that the AWD is needed, but it does get through stuff pretty easily.

I'm not a fan of cars this week, primarily my wife's Montana. On Tuesday, she had a flat that I had to change along the side of the road. Not that its anybody's fault, but everything went wrong:  the factory tire iron broke. the flat tire wouldn't come off, the spare was flat, and I had to roll around and jack up a car in the snow. Then yesterday, she was driving home, saw two deer on the side of the road, and instead of stopping and letting them get back into the woods, she swerved around them, while one was running right into her. She broke the turn signal lens, put a crack in the bumper and pushed the right front fender back to where you were unable to open the door. I was able to tape the lens back in to last long enough til I buy a new one, and I had to cut down an old broomstick to pinch between the fender and the door to pry it back forward and out, so the door wouldn't cave the fender back in. At least, being a unibody van, I can easily replace the fender without taking the front core apart if I ever decide to fix it. I also plan on working on the gap again when the weather gets warmer, as the fender should be a little more malleable. My only real p!ss me off is that I cracked the paint right along the edge, and the fender is a little wavy right by the door.

Wow, that seriously sucks, dude.  It just ain't a good week for anybody's car, I guess.  I just had the timing belt, power steering belt, and a/c belt replaced on mine last week to the tune of $703, but I had $200 in credit.  Then, my wife's car needed tires, plus the Haldex differential oil changed.  That was a rich $800 between the two. 

I love cars, but they aren't cheap by any means!  I can definitely sympathize with your situation, man!

 

[Graffiti62]

In the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, Subarus are all over the place. Due to Lake Superior, twelve feet of snow in a season is deemed a "lean" year. Many people buy them because of the fact that its a car with real all-wheel drive capability. Not that the AWD is needed, but it does get through stuff pretty easily.

I'm not a fan of cars this week, primarily my wife's Montana. On Tuesday, she had a flat that I had to change along the side of the road. Not that its anybody's fault, but everything went wrong:  the factory tire iron broke. the flat tire wouldn't come off, the spare was flat, and I had to roll around and jack up a car in the snow. Then yesterday, she was driving home, saw two deer on the side of the road, and instead of stopping and letting them get back into the woods, she swerved around them, while one was running right into her. She broke the turn signal lens, put a crack in the bumper and pushed the right front fender back to where you were unable to open the door. I was able to tape the lens back in to last long enough til I buy a new one, and I had to cut down an old broomstick to pinch between the fender and the door to pry it back forward and out, so the door wouldn't cave the fender back in. At least, being a unibody van, I can easily replace the fender without taking the front core apart if I ever decide to fix it. I also plan on working on the gap again when the weather gets warmer, as the fender should be a little more malleable. My only real p!ss me off is that I cracked the paint right along the edge, and the fender is a little wavy right by the door.

Wow, that seriously sucks, dude.  It just ain't a good week for anybody's car, I guess.  I just had the timing belt, power steering belt, and a/c belt replaced on mine last week to the tune of $703, but I had $200 in credit.  Then, my wife's car needed tires, plus the Haldex differential oil changed.  That was a rich $800 between the two. 

I love cars, but they aren't cheap by any means!  I can definitely sympathize with your situation, man!

I did wind up coming out all right on the tires though. Both rear tires needed to be replaced anyway, but it was the back right that blew. I suprisingly found a pair that were the same make and model (Goodyear Viza or Viva--can't remember) with about the same amount of mileage on them. $60 for the pair, then he mounted and balanced them onto the rims of the Pontiac for $10 for both. I did well enough to impress my dad, who is the king critic of deals. If he's impressed, you did really well.

 

[AutoBat]

I had Goodyear Viva2's when I had my Thunderchicken.  I think it's the wal*mart brand, as I've never seen them elsewhere.

I try stick to Michelins anymore.
My Chrysler needs some work when I get some cash.  window regulator mount is broken on driver side (i unhooked the power to the motor so I wouldn't accidentally put it down and mess it up) the front tires lose about 10 psi per week (bike pump in the trunk).  I've looked and looked but can't find anything obvious in the tread for a leak like that. (they're goodyears too) The headlights should get replaced too, they're all scummy.  I've tried Meguiar's restore kit, it made an improvement, but it's far from perfect.

I'll be happy when I'm rid of it, but I'm not keen on getting another car payment.

 

[pabloman]

I bet the tech that did the t belt was loving it. Mmmmmm Gravy plus a fun test drive!  Good stuff.

 

[Torment Leaves Scars]

In the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, Subarus are all over the place. Due to Lake Superior, twelve feet of snow in a season is deemed a "lean" year. Many people buy them because of the fact that its a car with real all-wheel drive capability. Not that the AWD is needed, but it does get through stuff pretty easily.

I'm not a fan of cars this week, primarily my wife's Montana. On Tuesday, she had a flat that I had to change along the side of the road. Not that its anybody's fault, but everything went wrong:  the factory tire iron broke. the flat tire wouldn't come off, the spare was flat, and I had to roll around and jack up a car in the snow. Then yesterday, she was driving home, saw two deer on the side of the road, and instead of stopping and letting them get back into the woods, she swerved around them, while one was running right into her. She broke the turn signal lens, put a crack in the bumper and pushed the right front fender back to where you were unable to open the door. I was able to tape the lens back in to last long enough til I buy a new one, and I had to cut down an old broomstick to pinch between the fender and the door to pry it back forward and out, so the door wouldn't cave the fender back in. At least, being a unibody van, I can easily replace the fender without taking the front core apart if I ever decide to fix it. I also plan on working on the gap again when the weather gets warmer, as the fender should be a little more malleable. My only real p!ss me off is that I cracked the paint right along the edge, and the fender is a little wavy right by the door.

Wow, that seriously sucks, dude.  It just ain't a good week for anybody's car, I guess.  I just had the timing belt, power steering belt, and a/c belt replaced on mine last week to the tune of $703, but I had $200 in credit.  Then, my wife's car needed tires, plus the Haldex differential oil changed.  That was a rich $800 between the two. 

I love cars, but they aren't cheap by any means!  I can definitely sympathize with your situation, man!

I did wind up coming out all right on the tires though. Both rear tires needed to be replaced anyway, but it was the back right that blew. I suprisingly found a pair that were the same make and model (Goodyear Viza or Viva--can't remember) with about the same amount of mileage on them. $60 for the pair, then he mounted and balanced them onto the rims of the Pontiac for $10 for both. I did well enough to impress my dad, who is the king critic of deals. If he's impressed, you did really well.

Glad everything worked out for you!

 

[ptirman]

Just got a Smart Car 2 days ago.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Oh no.  :doh:

 

[bagman67]

Right now I'm driving a Subaru Legacy, when I'm not riding my bike (which is to say, for the last couple rainy months).  However, we're gonna ditch the Subaru and pick up a Honda Odyssey for the little woman and a Honda Fit for me in the next month or two, making use of a fraction of the funds her father left her by preparing for the baby (who will be joining my two children from marriage no. 1) and getting me into a more efficient car to drive all over the Bay Area on client calls.

I am so looking forward to having a manual transmission again - even if it's in the context of a plain vanilla efficiency-mobile like the Fit.