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Vic's new Tele TFG parts

UPDATE:

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The decal is on.  Neck has one more coat of DEFT to go - over decal only.

My take on "Logos", right or wrong:  If I were trying to rip off Fender, claiming that what I had was a Fender product, in fact that would be very wrong, and I am fully against that.  However, the neck is clearly marked WARMOTH.  The body of the guitar is marked WARMOTH.  The label that will placed within the sound hole will state that I am the creator of the guitar, made from the best parts I could find.

In the automotove/hotrod circles, its not uncommon to build a Ford Roadster or Willys Roadster or what have you, even in motorcycle circles, folks build Harley bikes - that contain almost no Ford, Willys, or Harley parts.  Thats right, you can get aftermarket frames, body parts, wheels, interiors, tanks, suspension, the entire drive train - including the engine block... all aftermarket.  How much of those parts are "actual OEM" is a matter up to the builder.  And, they put the Ford, Willys or Harley-Davidson logo on the creation. 

Why? 

For two reasons.  One is because it offers a certain matter of "completeness" to the creation, often not like anything that ever left the factory.  Such it is with what I put together.  Fender never did this... nor probably would they.  But the other reason, is one deeper and more perhaps... spiritual for me.  That is, its not meant to be a rip off, its meant to pay homage.  Homage to Leo.  Homage to the great men and women who worked long hours for little pay to make what would be an American Icon.  This thing that I have created, with the help of all sorts of parts, in the manner and type once made by Leo, is a tribute to him.  It says that on the label too.

Love me, hate me, agree or disagree, but like Frank, I'm doing it my way....  To Gregg and the ops - if this needs to be removed, I fully understand, but have spoke my mind none the less.  Many thanks, and God bless.

Having said all that.......

The @#$@#$@# screws didn't show up today, and so... we get to wait till Monday for assembly.  I'll get the label made this weekend though, print it Monday and get it in on Monday too.  The rest... we should be playing by weeks end (nitro gotta dry some).

The recipe here for the decal was - sand and buff out, clean with degreaser, apply decal, dry fully, mask, seal with Zinsser shellac 3 times, shoot light... over and over... finally shooting a little heavier so it glossed up.  Now it sets a day, a VERY light 600 sanddown, and one final shoot should do it.
 
What stain/tint do you put on that mahogany neck before shooting gloss top coats? Looks great!

You can put the Fender logo(s) on if it turns your crank; I just made my own:

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Thats 3 grain fills with stewmac black waterbased filler, then some Tandy ProDye in "buckstin" color.  Thats an alcohol based metallic dye... meant for leather, but of course works great on wood.  It has excellent penetratration.  Then just DEFT.
 
Shit, just ordered the clear grain filler; may have to get a can of the black as well, love that effect.
 
Martin Guitars has done that ... like "forever", and I saw Frank Ford do it.. said... hmm..... he used "walnut" color, and I'm sure it matches Martins, and black next to walnut might look "off", but... I went black for max contrast.
 
jackthehack said:
What stain/tint do you put on that mahogany neck before shooting gloss top coats? Looks great!

You can put the Fender logo(s) on if it turns your crank; I just made my own:

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Hey Jack, Can you set me on the course to make my own decals?  yours look great, and I wanna do a couple custom decals as well,
 
I'm looking for a better way to do it, actually...

The ones I made were from a kit I found on eBay, but I just looked and don't see the guy advertising right now.

Basically, you use some special decal paper and print your design on it with an ink jet printer, here's a link to a site that sells it:

http://www.decalpaper.com/

After you let it dry, you shoot the printed decal with "Last Step Decal Coating", applying several coats to fix the inkjet printing when you dip it in water to slide the decal off.

Then you cut it out and apply; CB's given better instructions than I ever could on applying/finishing over the decal.

I wouldn't personally recommend the decal paper I've been using (that link above was for the first Googled site, not where I got mine); it's too thin and you wind up tearing/screwing up 2 or 3 decals for every one you get applied. Haven't had the time lately to futz with this further, when I find a better decal paper product I'll post a recommendation, maybe someone else on the board can add something here.
 
That last step hmmm

Could it be shellac?  I took my own advice and used shellac over these two decals and I'm happy with the lack of wrinkle and that everything just "sunk" unto the finish. 
 
Got the neck on, control holes made (all five) and man it was scary as a fat womans behind drillin a hole in the top for a LP toggle...., pickguard placed and moutned, jack plate mounted, pots mounted... sort of... and label in.

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and in fingerprinted glory... not quite there yet... and that knob... its getting tamed, I promise!

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