UV Tanning bulbs

[Tonar8352]

Jack,

I check with the Val-Spar chemists on the UV bulbs and he said this is what they use.
“The chamber we use for testing has UVB-313 Fluorescent bulbs. Our chamber has three bulbs 48 inches long and they are 12 inches in height from the part being tested.”

I think I'm going to build a Guitar Tanning Booth.  If you have one designed post the specifications so we can get some ideas of how it was put together.

 

[-CB-]

Keep in mind, the UV bulbs you need are of the nature that you wont see the emission, and... you'll need eye protection.  the "uv" bulbs you can see are not short enough wavelengths to work well.

Also keep in mind - I put this lester

out in the sun - horizontal (slack the strings first please) for over 20 hours.  Thats Florida summer sun, and zero effect on the finish, no tan, no red fade, nuthin.

 

[jackthehack]

Actually, I was going to use the tanning bed in the office/break room upstairs at my buddy's nudie bar, unsure of the model, but it's one of those clamshells. If the weather isn't cooperating it will cure out a round of grain filler in about 6 beers.

 

[Alfang]

Actually, I was going to use the tanning bed in the office/break room upstairs at my buddy's nudie bar, unsure of the model, but it's one of those clamshells. If the weather isn't cooperating it will cure out a round of grain filler in about 6 beers.

OMG Jack, I thought I was the only one that measured time in number of beers. It's a great system isn't it.

 

[CD]

And I thought I was the only person around keeping time with beer.  :laughing7:


I've never thought about how sunlight (or false sunlight) would effect the finish on a guitar. Interesting stuff to think about to say the least.

 

[jackthehack]

Well obviously it does on the older '50s/'60s nitro lacquer finishes; this kinda started on another thread, but if you've seen the "antiqued" finishes like on the Blackguard Tele Tonar did in the Gallery on this site some of us were asking where he got the nitro that came WITHOUT UV protecterant to repro those results; apparently Valspar is the only mfgr. anyone knows of, the aerosol stuff and Deft product smost of us use won't age very easy. The Valspar only comes in 1 and 4 gallon cans, so you need a compressor/spraygun to use it.

 

[jackthehack]

Well, I figured if the bed will keep the strippers that tan.... But you need the Valspar nitro lacquer, unless somebody has a clue about some other brand. Based on what I've seen from Tonar's axes, I'll go with that.

 

[-CB-]

Maybe we can lacquer the strippers......

 

[jackthehack]

I dunno.. They'd taste pretty nasty if you lacquered them...

 

[-CB-]

Then we'll give 'em a good shellac'ing.  Shellac tastes great!~

 

[jackthehack]

I just generally Tru-oil them till they push me away whimpering...

 

[rahimiiii]

I actually mix my own nitro, it a hell of a lot cheaper and you wont have any addatives.  You can get it in powder form and mix it with acetone, thats how its made.  I get the powder for a pyro website, its a firework site.  They use nitro for the bright fire on the firework...go figure.

So what's the website? will they ship overseas?

 

[Tonar8352]

There are several lacquers on the market besides Val-Spar that will yellow up under UV.
The key is getting Production Grade Lacquer.  It is the color of honey in the can and it all yellows.

I have used all of the following lacquers with the same effect as far as yellowing goes and they all work fine for doing a relic guitar.
Val-Spar
Simpson
US Cellulose
Mac-Lac

I’m sure if you go to any paint store and ask for their production grade nitrocellulose lacquer it will work fine.    Remember that production grade nitro is not generally instrument grade so it does not hold up very well under heavy playing conditions, which is what I am after. I want the finish to age quickly and yellow up real well.  All lacquer manufactures make several types of lacquer finishes as Jack found out just trying to order some Val-Spar.  They make so many even the people that sell them get confused.  Just remember PRODUCTION GRADE NITROCELLOULOSE will yellow up for you.
Do not get any of the following if you want to do an aged finish. Water White, Pre-Catalyzed, Conversion Varnish, Acrylic Lacquers, or Cab-Acrylic.

If I want more durable finish I always us McFadden’s as my lacquer of choice.  It sprays the best, flows and levels the best, wet-sands and rubs the best, and is the most durable.  But it will not yellow since it is water white.  I do use it on top of production lacquers if I want the best of both worlds, yellowing from the production and durability from the McFadden’s.

Depending on where you live and your EPA rules you will have to deal with VOC.  Try to get 680 VOC lacquers, 550 VOC at the least.  If it is 275 VOC I would look for some other options.

 

[yeshadette21]

Keep in mind, the UV bulbs you need are of the nature that you wont see the emission, and... you'll need eye protection.  the "uv" bulbs you can see are not short enough wavelengths to work well.

Also keep in mind - I put this lester

out in the sun - horizontal (slack the strings first please) for over 20 hours.   Thats Florida summer sun, and zero effect on the finish, no tan, no red fade, nuthin.

Yeah, that's right. You need eye protection, so that your eyes will not daze in the light. That nay cause blurred vision, even in lying sown the tanning bed you need also use eye protection.