Tone miniswitch instead of pot?

Yeah I dont wanna be an boom-boom to all of you who helps out either, but i am not very adventurous with electronics

I have soldered a tone knob with success before, maybe a bypass switch before the tone is a better idea after all?
 
Couple of things.

Firstly, if you're going to have wide open, some roll-off, and a lot of roll-off, then I would do it with two different capacitors rather than resistors and capacitors. The "dull tone" capacitor would probably be a 0.022uF capacitor, but for the "medium tone" position you might want to look at something like a 0.01uF or even a 0.0047uF capacitor.

You can use a DPDT on/on/on switch to achieve this result. Look at this diagram:

Switches2_Diag_6.png


The white wire marked "output to volume" would be connected to the place on the volume control that you currently connect the tone control to (probably the left lug).

The wire marked "Hot A" would not be there - "A" would be your "wide open" position.

The wire marked "Hot B" would be replaced with your "medium" tone capacitor, with the other end connected to ground.

The wire marked "Hot C" would be replaced with your "dull" tone capacitor, again with the other end connected to ground.

Hope that helps.
 
I've written 2 or 3 posts in response to this now, and keep deleting them in the interest of being polite. I've seen at least one other poster do the same thing.

We all wanna be nice, but I'm finally gonna bite the bullet, be the bad guy and tell you the simple truth: get someone else to do this for you. It'll save you a ton of trouble, it won't cost much, and you'll be happy.
 
Cagey said:
I've written 2 or 3 posts in response to this now, and keep deleting them in the interest of being polite. I've seen at least one other poster do the same thing.

We all wanna be nice, but I'm finally gonna bite the bullet, be the bad guy and tell you the simple truth: get someone else to do this for you. It'll save you a ton of trouble, it won't cost much, and you'll be happy.

+1.
 
Im sorry everybody, i just dont know any much about electronics so i wasn't sure if any of those wirings are what i wanted (i guess i have oversimplified it in my head)
 
No need to apologize. Dentistry seems fairly simple to me, but a person would be a masochistic fool to let me practice on them and I'd have to be a sadist to try it.


ClintEastwood.jpg


A man's gotta know his limitations
 
This whole thread is wonky from the getgo.  Here it is in a nutshell.

Cederick:  I want to do this.

Posted replies:  Here's how.

Cederick:  Yeah, I can't do that.
 
1. i get that you want a visual... the problem with that is it take significantly more time to make a pretty drawing, upload it somewhere, and link it than it takes to type words...
2. it's not all that difficult but i get that it can be hard to absorb. there is a bit of intimidation factor with new things and i can tell you that as an adult i don't absorb new things nearly as well as i did in my teens. it's understandable to be confused.

the only thing is we can only put in so much effort to help before it seems like a waste of time. where are you located? perhaps there is a forum member that can help you with this that is not too far away.
 
Jumble Jumble said:
Couple of things.

Firstly, if you're going to have wide open, some roll-off, and a lot of roll-off, then I would do it with two different capacitors rather than resistors and capacitors. The "dull tone" capacitor would probably be a 0.022uF capacitor, but for the "medium tone" position you might want to look at something like a 0.01uF or even a 0.0047uF capacitor.

You can use a DPDT on/on/on switch to achieve this result. Look at this diagram:

Switches2_Diag_6.png


The white wire marked "output to volume" would be connected to the place on the volume control that you currently connect the tone control to (probably the left lug).

The wire marked "Hot A" would not be there - "A" would be your "wide open" position.

The wire marked "Hot B" would be replaced with your "medium" tone capacitor, with the other end connected to ground.

The wire marked "Hot C" would be replaced with your "dull" tone capacitor, again with the other end connected to ground.

Hope that helps.

Cederick said:
Where does the hot colorful things go to?

Dude.

The wire marked "Hot A" would not be there - "A" would be your "wide open" position.

The wire marked "Hot B" would be replaced with your "medium" tone capacitor, with the other end connected to ground.

The wire marked "Hot C" would be replaced with your "dull" tone capacitor, again with the other end connected to ground.
 
I know actually understand this  :eek:

Of course with this knowledge I will totally do it!

Would this work well for a "lightly rolled off" tone?
http://gitarrdelar.se/product_info.php?cPath=62_119&products_id=384

And just to be sure; which type of mini-switch am I looking for here?

 
Jumble Jumble said:
Couple of things.

Firstly, if you're going to have wide open, some roll-off, and a lot of roll-off, then I would do it with two different capacitors rather than resistors and capacitors. The "dull tone" capacitor would probably be a 0.022uF capacitor, but for the "medium tone" position you might want to look at something like a 0.01uF or even a 0.0047uF capacitor.

You can use a DPDT on/on/on switch to achieve this result. Look at this diagram:

Switches2_Diag_6.png


The white wire marked "output to volume" would be connected to the place on the volume control that you currently connect the tone control to (probably the left lug).

The wire marked "Hot A" would not be there - "A" would be your "wide open" position.

The wire marked "Hot B" would be replaced with your "medium" tone capacitor, with the other end connected to ground.

The wire marked "Hot C" would be replaced with your "dull" tone capacitor, again with the other end connected to ground.

Hope that helps.

But I still dont get WHERE the colorful things GO?

Should the capacitors just be soldered in one end and then just hang in the air with the other end?
 
"...with the other end connected to ground"

Ground = earth = the back of the volume pot = the sleeve connection of the jack socket.
 
Oh... Thats the problem with these schematics, I read them just like they are drawn; in my mind that looks like three tone caps hanging in the air  :toothy12:
 
I also get totally confused by the white "output to volume" wire.

Why does it say "output to volume" while the text says it goes to volume pot?  :tard:
 
Så the Hot A hot B and Hot C should be solderd on top of volume pot?  :tard:
 
Please if somebody can draw exactly how I should wire everything I would be too grateful

Because I have all necesarry parts now, I ordered a on-on-on miniswitch and also these:
http://gitarrdelar.se/product_info.php?products_id=384
http://gitarrdelar.se/product_info.php?products_id=4034
 
I'll draw it up for you later Cederick, if somebody else doesn't rush to beat me to it.
 
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