The L5S
- Thread starter blue313
- Start date
Ok here's the update. :laughing7:
I just walked away from the wiring, having only the output jack and some of the grounds left to do. The F-hole is presenting some challenges with wire routing. The RS guitarworks long shafted pots proved unnecessary, so I went with the CTS 500k standards.
I'm wondering about the strap buttons at the moment. Since its hollow is there anything special I have to do?
I just walked away from the wiring, having only the output jack and some of the grounds left to do. The F-hole is presenting some challenges with wire routing. The RS guitarworks long shafted pots proved unnecessary, so I went with the CTS 500k standards.
I'm wondering about the strap buttons at the moment. Since its hollow is there anything special I have to do?
Haha.Update:
- Electronics done and tested with a tuning fork.
- Tuners mounted and neck mounted.
- I'm waiting on the rear covers. I sent them off to Stan at inventingshed.com to have some wood ones made.
It's off to a picnic now. Ill start on radiusing the bridge saddles and fitting the tailpiece tomorrow.
- Electronics done and tested with a tuning fork.
- Tuners mounted and neck mounted.
- I'm waiting on the rear covers. I sent them off to Stan at inventingshed.com to have some wood ones made.
It's off to a picnic now. Ill start on radiusing the bridge saddles and fitting the tailpiece tomorrow.
Nando Vallart
Epic Member
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Top notch!
rockskate4x
Hero Member
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That's looking good, man! Can't wait to see the whole thing finished. I looked at the cross section picture of the Hollow L5S on the Warmoth website and it looks like if you center the lower strap button square in the butt of the guitar it should be a cinch, but the upper strap button location is covered by the laminate in the picture so I'm not sure how to help you there.
I mounted the tailpiece, strap buttons, truss rod cover and roller bridge. The strap buttons went in great. I had them leave the center area unrouted (in case the Bigsby/Vibramate stressed the wood) so both areas had a plenty of wood to mount to.
I don't think this particular bridge is going to work out. It's a completely standard TOM but the saddles were fitted with rollers. The problem is that the rollers sit much higher than standard saddles. The action is just a little too high, and the studs are already flush with the body. I need to order some bone nut blanks anyways so I'll get the Stewmac roller bridge which sits lower. Worse comes to worse I'll just shim the neck.
I got an SKB-35 case for it. It was the closest size based on Jack's recommendation. It's not a bad fit, but it doesn't fill out the lower bout that well so it'll rattle. It's either a towel in the bottom or I'll have to fab something up.
I don't think this particular bridge is going to work out. It's a completely standard TOM but the saddles were fitted with rollers. The problem is that the rollers sit much higher than standard saddles. The action is just a little too high, and the studs are already flush with the body. I need to order some bone nut blanks anyways so I'll get the Stewmac roller bridge which sits lower. Worse comes to worse I'll just shim the neck.
I got an SKB-35 case for it. It was the closest size based on Jack's recommendation. It's not a bad fit, but it doesn't fill out the lower bout that well so it'll rattle. It's either a towel in the bottom or I'll have to fab something up.
Unwound G
Hero Member
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The L5S I built recently for a customer came back for some adjustments and I have the opportunity to take some pics on the string height in relation to the roller bridge and Bigsby. The string to fretboard clearance is quite good as you can see and there is still a lot of adjustment left to lower the bridge. Did you order the neck cavity with an angle pitch ?
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