Tell Us The Definitive Way to FInish With Tru/Tung Oil
- Thread starter greenplastic
- Start date
Justinginn
Hero Member
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- 631
Hey
I've got a few questions:
Can I get anywhere near this (attached Kiskae model) with Tung? Spraying is gonna be way out of my reach, I think.
If so...
1. Could I get that little bit of burst around the edge? It's not too important so I can do without
2. How do you guys go about finding/mixing stains/colors/whatever?
I've been reading everything on this forum, but still know a lot less than I need to... :sad1:
I'll probably be putting my order together quite soon... finally...
Thanks for your help and putting up with my silly questions :doh:
I've got a few questions:
Can I get anywhere near this (attached Kiskae model) with Tung? Spraying is gonna be way out of my reach, I think.
If so...
1. Could I get that little bit of burst around the edge? It's not too important so I can do without
2. How do you guys go about finding/mixing stains/colors/whatever?
I've been reading everything on this forum, but still know a lot less than I need to... :sad1:
I'll probably be putting my order together quite soon... finally...
Thanks for your help and putting up with my silly questions :doh:
TonyFlyingSquirrel
Master Member
- Messages
- 4,512
True Oil on Birdseye Maple
20 years on the same finish.
Lot's of time in the brush, many harvests and hides as a result.
98' Mauser in a Monte Carlo Rollover stock with Williams Rear Site, Bolt forged for Scope out of comfort rather than a need for a scope. Chambered in 8mm, knocks down the sillouette targets all day long @ 200 years on a warm barrel.
She came from a blank just like this one, which I still have. It's about 35 years old, was about 25 when I got it from my gunsmith/stockbuilding uncle about 10 or 11 years ago.
20 years on the same finish.
Lot's of time in the brush, many harvests and hides as a result.
98' Mauser in a Monte Carlo Rollover stock with Williams Rear Site, Bolt forged for Scope out of comfort rather than a need for a scope. Chambered in 8mm, knocks down the sillouette targets all day long @ 200 years on a warm barrel.
She came from a blank just like this one, which I still have. It's about 35 years old, was about 25 when I got it from my gunsmith/stockbuilding uncle about 10 or 11 years ago.
Ok, I am giving up on the filler thing!! I tried a couple of more pieces of test wood and neither the mahogany or the 'neutral' is not going to work..It looks horrible!!!!
I really wanted to go for the Satin PRS look anyway, as suggested by Stubhead (http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=3051.0)
Also, I had some great success finishing black korina before with just 4 or 5 coats of Tru-Oil... now is there anything else I need to keep in mind with TUNG Oil? will it soak in too deep without filler?
Also, the Rosewood top is already supersmooth.. not a dimple to see. could that be because it was quartersawn?
so just to make it clear, I am not looking for a Super Smooth Mirror like finish.. just a nice woodsy deep satin heirloom type of finish..
I really wanted to go for the Satin PRS look anyway, as suggested by Stubhead (http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=3051.0)
Also, I had some great success finishing black korina before with just 4 or 5 coats of Tru-Oil... now is there anything else I need to keep in mind with TUNG Oil? will it soak in too deep without filler?
Also, the Rosewood top is already supersmooth.. not a dimple to see. could that be because it was quartersawn?
so just to make it clear, I am not looking for a Super Smooth Mirror like finish.. just a nice woodsy deep satin heirloom type of finish..
