String setup on compound radius neck

[Jumble Jumble]

The standard Floyd nuts are 10", and the bridge comes at 10", but if you take it apart there's a shim in there under the four middle saddles. Take that shim out and it changes to 12". Then you add those 2 shims under the 2 E strings, and one under A and B, and you're as close as you're gonna get. I haven't checked how close it is but it feels great.

 

[Cagey]

I've set up a number of fiddles w/ compound radius necks and Floyds, and I get my shims here. There's enough in a set to do two bridges.

 

[MikeW]

If you have a bridge with individually adjustable saddles, it's a non-issue. Just set the action where you like it.

Yes, but the problem with that is that you wind up either having to measure the height of each string from the fretboard to get consistent action, or you have to build/buy a radius gauge to make sure that the saddles are at the heights they should be. Of course, this assumes that you are looking for consistent action across all stings. I suppose you could just as easily set each string to the height you want it to be, regardless of height from the fretboard.

The nice part about the string-cone method (that's the best name I could come up with...) is that it 1) gives consistent action across all strings and 2) doesn't require gauges or measurements.

 

[Strat Avenger]

If you have a bridge with individually adjustable saddles, it's a non-issue. Just set the action where you like it.

Yes, but the problem with that is that you wind up either having to measure the height of each string from the fretboard to get consistent action, or you have to build/buy a radius gauge to make sure that the saddles are at the heights they should be. Of course, this assumes that you are looking for consistent action across all stings. I suppose you could just as easily set each string to the height you want it to be, regardless of height from the fretboard.

The nice part about the string-cone method (that's the best name I could come up with...) is that it 1) gives consistent action across all strings and 2) doesn't require gauges or measurements.

And how is this a problem? That's how you're supposed to do it, regardless of fretboard radius.

A radius gauge is not necessary for individually adjustable saddles. For example; adjust each string for 1/16" or 5/64" height at the 12th fret. Your radius is now as it should be.

 

[stubhead]

Just to be all anal and perverse, I have compared what happens when I set the strings my usual way - which is to lower them until they buzz for a bit, the keep raising them, until the buzz turns into a single little twack* against the next fret. This is one of the few times I think it's a good idea to be non-musical about it - no overdrive, plenty of treble, no reverb, the open "A" string vibrates 110 times per second, so you gotta be on yer game to hear the first one. :icon_thumright: HA Ha. ha.

Presupposing your nut is filed for .007" to .010" height at the first fret on the high "E" when it's held down between frets two and three, .015" on the low "E"(!!**). Presupposing you have about .007" to .010" relief at fret twelve, when held down at fret one and twenty-two, or twenty-one or four.(!!**) Every subsequent buzz is thieving yer tone - though of course compromises are and must be made. Tone vs. action, it's a simple conflict. But anyway, when I adjust to equalize the buzz - it comes out exactly the same as measuring, or so close as to be a non-issue.

**(!!) etc. - I have set off a good deal of whoopie in a few net places by suggesting that you probably won't get the absolute best results from using brand-spanking new strings here. Unless you are a rock star and get your strings free and employ a  peon to change all of the strings on all of your guitars every single day, you will be playing more music on semi-aged strings than on brand new ones. When I was playing git for money I usually adjusted the saddles twice per string change. And if you are that picky about it, you HAVE to notice that week-old strings are acting different from the brand-new ones. And all the guitar magazines insist that means you have to change strings, because it's "wrong" to set action & intonation on the kinds of strings you'll usually be playing - which isn't brand new. You can even see how the low "E" comes off the nut a little bit higher when new than when that break angle has flattened. It takes a couple of days unless you are gigging it for hours a day, and the more guitars you have the weirder it gets. I'd rather be "wrong" and in tune than going all willy-nilly over it.