QUARTERSAWN vs PLAINSAWN..

[stubhead]

I have noticed that with Warmoth's double-action, modern truss rod, the neck pretty much pulls up to where you have the truss rod set and then it doesn't move anymore. I consider the Warmoth rod to be a functional improvement over the old, warpy Fender-style. If you insist on using an old, warpy, obsolete single rod, because "that's the way Leo did it", then maybe the wood strength matters more.

I'm pretty sure that if you could figure out a way to hook the tuners, nuts and frets to the Warmoth truss rod, you wouldn't even need the wood. Have you ever seen people grab the headstock of a guitar and wiggle it around to make a whammy-bar effect? When you do that to a Warmoth, nothing happens. :glasses10:

 

[jackthehack]

"But since he's just some "elderly" guy with "minimal or limited knowledge", he doesn't know what he's talking about. You'd be better off asking some young punk...

I'm a punk quite older than you, and can state unequivocally that Jim Suhr statement:

"We offer plain-grain hard rock Maple as well as the finest quality Birdseye Maple and museum grade Birdseye. The plain-grain is usually the most stable (at least in our opinion) although Birdseye sure does look good."

...is every bit as wrong and ignorant as the one in which the "Sizzle" flamefest topic started about his statement that a rosewood fretboard imparts too much "sizzle" to be used with an ash body.

He's counting on people being asshat enough to believe his lines of shit so they'll buy what is roughly the equivalent of  a little less than $2000 in Warmoth parts that he assembled for $6000-8000, but often aren't quite as attractive as they could be due to his peculiar theories on wood.

If the quote were in reference to SPALTED maple, it could be true.

If I were to hit you over the head as hard as I could with a birdseye maple neck, a flame maple neck and a plain maple neck, the 2nd and 3rd smacks would be redundant, as your skull would have caved in from the birdseye. I don't think any of the necks would be damaged, but on second thought I could be underestimating the thickness of skull to gray matter ratio in your case based on your statements.

 

[imminentG]

Woahhhhhhhhh

nigga Jack's my hero lol

I was waiting for somebody to bring up "sizzle"


SOMEBODY has a temper
:cool01:
whoopdidoo

in an attempt to stay on topic  :icon_thumright: lol
I would go quatersawn
WHY?
cuz when you don't know what you're talking about
and some company says quatersawn will technically make a stronger neck
you believe them

so my vote is based on the fact that that's just what I've heard over the years


AND
let me just say
that I originally got interested in warmoth because of the whole birdseye arguement
I was way more into Carvin and when I came up with a guitar project with a birdseye neck
well,
it just couldn't be done by them
they deemed birdseye maple an unsuitable neck wood
long story short
I saw Warmoth could do it
then I saw all your other exotic options
and promptly did not give a sh*t about maple from then on

THANK YOU WARMOTH  :blob7:

 

[SkuttleFunk]

This is a direct copy & paste from John Suhr's website:

"We offer plain-grain hard rock Maple as well as the finest quality Birdseye Maple and museum grade Birdseye. The plain-grain is usually the most stable (at least in our opinion) although Birdseye sure does look good."

just to clarify things a bit ...

the Suhr quote says that plain Maple is more STABLE than birdseye. STABILITY and STRENGTH/STIFFNESS are two entirely different aspects that may or may not corrolate within a given species. it is error to say that one wood species is weaker than another simply because it is less stable.

it is good to avoid general lay terminology when discussing wood properties, as this vagueness almost always leads to arguments. it is also good to know which properties are critical for instrument construction - and how they are properly applied to the aspect being discussed (i.e. hardness properties have no real significance when discussing the stiffness or stability of a species)

all the best,

R

 

[-CB-]

museum grade birdseye is the key phrase that makes that passage as meaningful as stacked rat turds

This is schmaltz.  Chicken fat.  He can't say "we use gitfiddle maple, guitarus hugetonus.dilecti"  or even say "we use maple grown in the northeast, known as hard rock maple". 

He has to say "museum grade"......

As if to add a sense of elegance, and superiority to what is normally, just a nice piece of wood.  Why, its ......"museum grade"....has a ring to it.  Is YOURS museum grade... well our are.

He might utter...did you know that Eric Clapton and Eric Johnson can tell the difference between museum grade birdseye and "regular" AAAA birdseye, just by the SMELL when they open the case?  I'm sorry, but if you cant appeciate the difference, then you must be blind, deaf, stupid, smelly and of some lower life form order.  EVERYONE KNOWS that museum grade birdseye is superior, and OBVIOUSLY museum grade birdseye is totally wasted on you!

I can hear him saying that......


*note to Jack:  the true art here is bringing something up, without actually bringing it up <ggggg!!!!!!~~~~>  TY!~

 

[-CB-]

If I were to hit you over the head as hard as I could with a birdseye maple neck.....

.... you'd have a line forming clear down the block?

 

[jackthehack]

Back to the original question/thread; I've owned guitars with necks of every flavor of maple; and both quarter and flat sawn. Given that the neck is properly finished to protect from moisture and humidity, and some care is taken to try not to subject it to extremes in temperature, I don't really think there is any great differential between a neck manufactured of any of the types of maple or flat or quarter sawn.

That being said, although I haven't owned any Warmoth Pro necks for as long a period of time as I have those from Fender, their construction with double acting truss rods is without a doubt the most stable I've ever experienced. Where with typical Gibsons and Fenders over the years I've needed to do at least a minor neck adjustment on average at least once a year, the Warmoth Pros just don't move, my oldest is going on 3 years old and none has needed any adjustment after initial setup yet.

So bottom line, I think it's much to do about nothing; choose your maple and sawn preference based on how you want the neck to look; if it's a Warmoth Pro and any modicum of care is taken to avoid extremes that would ill-effect it, I doubt you're otherwise going to see any issues of this ilk.

 

[stubhead]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YLHDCmWOUM

:hello2:

 

[DiMitriR33]

i don't know where or how you found that but it is awsome. i kinda like the tone, very unusual but i like it.

 

[T.L.]

No, I'm not gonna participate in any "flame wars" I already knew that kids think they know everything, and nothing I say is really gonna change that. It IS amazing that these guys think they know more than people like John Suhr, and those with many years in high-end guitar building. Pure arrogance...

 

[SkuttleFunk]

never said I know more, the same, or less than Suhr ... just that I recognize marketing hype when I see it

all the best,

R

 

[SkuttleFunk]

so, just for grins I pulled up the technical data for both Eastern Hard Maple and Birdseye Maple. looking at their technical data - can anyone guess which is which?

p.s. there is no typo in the image. if you need help in understanding, here's the reference source:

Eastern Hard Maple: http://www.onlinewoods.com/onlinewoods/species.php?woodtype=54

Birdseye Maple: http://www.onlinewoods.com/onlinewoods/species.php?woodtype=52

all the best,

R

 

[-CB-]

Pure arrogance...

No, its "MUSEUM QUALITY" pure arrogance!~ :glasses9:

Suhr might as well be Ed Roman for all I care.

 

[Shmoopie]

don't know more than John Suhr, but i defiantly know more than his marketing department, i know a sale when i see one.

side note, go into a gc and ask which batteries make your pedals sound better.

 

[-CB-]

Q.  What batteries sound best in my pedal?
A.  These that we have on sale today, Sir.

 

[Shmoopie]

thank you, eric johnson would be proud.

 

[DiMitriR33]

don't know more than John Suhr, but i defiantly know more than his marketing department, i know a sale when i see one.

side note, go into a gc and ask which batteries make your pedals sound better.

for real, eric johnson can play but he comes up with some rediculous stuff when it comes to gear, i believe it was him who made claims of the batteries making a pedal sound better.

and TL for the record i don't believe there are many experts left in any field. kinman has such good pickups that he can charge $300 a set but the tech info on the website is totally laughable. reputation means nothing to me, there is facts fiction and just plain fantasy out there that the professionals believe give them an edge, if it works for them fine but if you're not the expert don't quote them and push there pet theories onto others and act like we're stupid for not believing the marketing hype.

get some engineering data and we'll gladly accept fact over "it is because so and so said so"

 

[RLW]

If you have a 60's Fuzzface with germanium transistors, carbon and alkaline batteries DO sound different. Not huge, but there is a difference, especially in a controlled environment like a studio, not at Guitar Center on Saturday afternoon.

 

[jackthehack]

If you have a 60's Fuzzface with germanium transistors, carbon and alkaline batteries DO sound different. Not huge, but there is a difference, especially in a controlled environment like a studio, not at Guitar Center on Saturday afternoon.

You just can't get that 60's sound with the alkalines!

 

[Shmoopie]

go with energizer lithiums if you're into techno.  :doh:

i personally run all my stuff off a car battery, it gives that large big huge large sound, that only that quantity of battery acid can provide.