New Guitar Day!!!
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Nando Vallart
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OzziePete said:NonsenseTele said:
Yeah, I guess you could use one of those, but the thought of removing the old bridge off the guitar would kinda scare me off the idea.
As far as I'm concerned, the bridge is not glued, it's only hold on place by the strenght of strings... I *can* be wrong, but usually archtops are on this way, you've to tape the place the bridge is before take the strings off, to get the intonation properly after changing the strings...
O
OzziePete
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Sorry, I thought the archtop bridges were glued in place like the acoustic flat top guitars? :dontknow:NonsenseTele said:OzziePete said:NonsenseTele said:
Yeah, I guess you could use one of those, but the thought of removing the old bridge off the guitar would kinda scare me off the idea.
As far as I'm concerned, the bridge is not glued, it's only hold on place by the strenght of strings... I *can* be wrong, but usually archtops are on this way, you've to tape the place the bridge is before take the strings off, to get the intonation properly after changing the strings...
erogenousjones17
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Yeah, I think that most archtop bridges are held in place by string tension, like a violin. I'm pretty sure that a few of them are glued or mounted on studs that keep them in place (some Gretsch models have this feature, I believe). To be honest, I have no idea how the bridge is attached on this guitar.
I also tend to agree here. Looks like a standard archtop bridge, so more than likely its just held on by tension.
Sometimes you can see the heads of the pins under the TOM part of the bridge from the top. Failing that, pins are usually visible from the underside using an inspection mirror through the f-hole.
If you see nothing, put masking tape down around the footprints for reference. Then slacken the strings and see if it'll lift upwards. Be careful not to scratch the top if it wants to move side to side.
Sometimes you can see the heads of the pins under the TOM part of the bridge from the top. Failing that, pins are usually visible from the underside using an inspection mirror through the f-hole.
If you see nothing, put masking tape down around the footprints for reference. Then slacken the strings and see if it'll lift upwards. Be careful not to scratch the top if it wants to move side to side.
erogenousjones17
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Well nat, I'm not really equipped to record anything that would do this guitar any justice, but after playing it essentially non-stop for a week, I can honestly say that it is amazing. Some of the things that I've begun to notice and really appreciate are the way the whole thing just resonates and feels "alive" (as cliche as that sounds), along with the natural harmonic overtones you get when playing acoustic. Also, the acoustic tone is just perfect; not too loud and boomy, but not thin or quacky either. I must say I've also been very pleasantly surprised by the tones I can get out of it through an amp. I brought it to band practice on the weekend, and coaxed a really nice punk rock tone out of it (and with a noise gate, feedback is entirely controllable and really, really fun). By switching to my Peavey's clean channel or rolling back on the volume, I was able to get really clear, smooth tones for my band's ska/jazzy breaks (yes, my band is weird).
Final verdict: to anyone who has considered one of these, go buy it! :laughing7:
Final verdict: to anyone who has considered one of these, go buy it! :laughing7:
AprioriMark
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NonsenseTele said:OzziePete said:NonsenseTele said:
Yeah, I guess you could use one of those, but the thought of removing the old bridge off the guitar would kinda scare me off the idea.
As far as I'm concerned, the bridge is not glued, it's only hold on place by the strenght of strings... I *can* be wrong, but usually archtops are on this way, you've to tape the place the bridge is before take the strings off, to get the intonation properly after changing the strings...
That's how my archtops have always been.
-Mark
erogenousjones17
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I'll take one of each, thanks. :laughing7:
erogenousjones17
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Shameless bump:
Here's a pic of the Godin in action last Thursday at an acoustic gig. I guess my girlfriend was being artsy, hence the intentional grainyness.
However, what will probably be of more interest here is our bass player's axe, the green '51 P-bass. Guess what? The body's a Warmoth!
Here's a pic of the Godin in action last Thursday at an acoustic gig. I guess my girlfriend was being artsy, hence the intentional grainyness.
However, what will probably be of more interest here is our bass player's axe, the green '51 P-bass. Guess what? The body's a Warmoth!
Hey I just had a chance to play one of these at Rudy's music stop. I actually, really loved everything about it. The QC was really nice, the finish (black matte) was very cool, pickup was really great. Awesome guitar and awesome value I thought.
but it was strung with electric 10s, which I thought was very odd. The guy said it needed electric strings for the P90 to work, which didn't sound right to me. I would be playing a lot of slide and mixed slide / fingerstyle stuff. If you don't mind - what strings do you use, and do you think it could handle phosphor bronze 13s?
I went in to look at resonators but preferred this, it's just hard to really get a feel for something when the strings are so different than what they should be.
but it was strung with electric 10s, which I thought was very odd. The guy said it needed electric strings for the P90 to work, which didn't sound right to me. I would be playing a lot of slide and mixed slide / fingerstyle stuff. If you don't mind - what strings do you use, and do you think it could handle phosphor bronze 13s?
I went in to look at resonators but preferred this, it's just hard to really get a feel for something when the strings are so different than what they should be.
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