W
whyachi
Guest
That wasn't done intentionally, but I love it.
W
whyachi
Guest
So today I did the fret lines. After discussing my options with the woodworker in the family, I mixed Titebond and maple sawdust (2:1) and sprayed in the black paint I used for the pickguard, then crammed the goo into the slots.
W
whyachi
Guest
It expanded, I think. I was letting it dry on the table and after 30 minutes it had an arch in the board. It's spending the night in the garage clamped down flat now.
Cagey
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 24,425
Probably the wood soaking up the moisture in the glue and expanding. Sometimes frets will do that to the neck, too, if the slots aren't cut wide enough. Pressing in the tangs spreads the wood ever so slightly, and by the time you've got 22 of them in there, you've got a slight back bow.
bob7point7
Senior Member
- Messages
- 272
Those fret lines turned out great! I'm probably going to wish I had those on mine, hehehehe.
W
whyachi
Guest
Its the camera making them look fuzzy, they're very straight. The goop has settled in the slots so I now have high-contrast sandable fretlines. I might even use this on a non-$100 build.
Tomorrow I'm making the trek to my father's house again to cut out the headstock with the jigsaw, and he says he's located a spokeshave for me. The body is basically done, just sanding it when I get mad at whatever I'm doing with the neck.
Tomorrow I'm making the trek to my father's house again to cut out the headstock with the jigsaw, and he says he's located a spokeshave for me. The body is basically done, just sanding it when I get mad at whatever I'm doing with the neck.
W
whyachi
Guest
While its flexible and its possible to clamp it down flat, every time I take pressure off the fretboard it arches up about a quarter of an inch off the table. Think this will cause an issue when I go to glue it to the neck? I wish I would have thought to clamp it before it twisted on me..
bob7point7
Senior Member
- Messages
- 272
You're going to reinforce the neck with steel, right? I doubt the fretboard bow will give you any trouble once it's glued to the rest of the neck. The neck wood + reinforcement is much, much more resistant to bending than a 1/4" fretboard with slots cut accross the grain. Just make sure you clamp it really well when you glue it! (I have no doubt that you would anyway.)
DangerousR6
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 15,478
They make flat tooth picks.... :icon_biggrin:Cagey said:
Cagey
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 24,425
DangerousR6 said:
Yes, but the ones I've seen are flat on two opposing sides, and slightly angled on the opposite two. Although, I guess you could install them vertically, then just grind off the rest. Might need to install two per slot, though, to gain enough height to accommodate the curvature of the 'board. Or, maybe they'd bend enough when you glued 'em in. Dunno. Never tried it.
W
whyachi
Guest
Okay, so I screwed up good. I glued the fretboard onto the neck, right? Got it all clamped down snug and everything dried well.
No, I didn't forget the truss rod, 'cause I don't have one.
Problem is, I glued it down so the top of the fretboard - where the nut should be - covers the bit where the nut actually goes. Basically, the whole board is about 1/8" closer to the headstock than it should be. And it is well TiteBonded.
Only thing I can think of is using a bandsaw to take the board off, running the neck through a planer to un-f*** it after the cuts and starting over with the other oak fretboard blank I made. But I've called everyone I can think of and can't find a band saw or a planer. Anyone have any suggestions?
No, I didn't forget the truss rod, 'cause I don't have one.
Problem is, I glued it down so the top of the fretboard - where the nut should be - covers the bit where the nut actually goes. Basically, the whole board is about 1/8" closer to the headstock than it should be. And it is well TiteBonded.
Only thing I can think of is using a bandsaw to take the board off, running the neck through a planer to un-f*** it after the cuts and starting over with the other oak fretboard blank I made. But I've called everyone I can think of and can't find a band saw or a planer. Anyone have any suggestions?
Cagey
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 24,425
Geez. You really screwed the pooch with that one. Titebond is magical stuff when it comes to wood. Once it's cured, a proper joint is stronger than the wood itself and it defies heat and solvents. Even oak will break before a Titebonded joint between two pieces of it will, and believe me, I've seen it more than once.
If you shorten the heel in order to compensate for the fret offset, the intonation is going to be off. By a mile. Then you still have the nut problem. A zero fret won't hold the string spacing. There's nothing left to mount a locking nut to, and again the intonation would be off.
I've had two cigarettes and most of a beer thinking about this, and so far no matter what path I go down I'm back to irreversible error. Even if you had a bandsaw capable of resawing that face off, then you'd need a jointer/planer to reface the neck and/or the fretboard, and I'm not sure what you'd be saving since either or both parts would be dimensionally compromised. Given the labor involved with all that, it might be faster and easier to rebuild from scratch. It never takes as long the second, third, and subsequent times. Bite the bullet. It'll only hurt for a minute. Besides, you wish you'd have done a better job anyway, right? <grin>
If you shorten the heel in order to compensate for the fret offset, the intonation is going to be off. By a mile. Then you still have the nut problem. A zero fret won't hold the string spacing. There's nothing left to mount a locking nut to, and again the intonation would be off.
I've had two cigarettes and most of a beer thinking about this, and so far no matter what path I go down I'm back to irreversible error. Even if you had a bandsaw capable of resawing that face off, then you'd need a jointer/planer to reface the neck and/or the fretboard, and I'm not sure what you'd be saving since either or both parts would be dimensionally compromised. Given the labor involved with all that, it might be faster and easier to rebuild from scratch. It never takes as long the second, third, and subsequent times. Bite the bullet. It'll only hurt for a minute. Besides, you wish you'd have done a better job anyway, right? <grin>
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom
Epic Member
- Messages
- 8,318
Just build the bass out of titebond.
Hmm.... Could you just cut a new slot in the headstock for the nut, maybe have an extra-tall nut, and then ...
mount the neck, look for the amount of travel you'll have on the bridge. Maybe you could get the 1/8th inch corrected at the bridge.
or
mount the neck, relocate the bridge. You'll have to cut the pickguard some, but since you're moving the bridge closer to the nut, you can use what you already have with a small change.
I would think one those would work,
mount the neck, look for the amount of travel you'll have on the bridge. Maybe you could get the 1/8th inch corrected at the bridge.
or
mount the neck, relocate the bridge. You'll have to cut the pickguard some, but since you're moving the bridge closer to the nut, you can use what you already have with a small change.
I would think one those would work,
Death by Uberschall
Master Member
- Messages
- 4,162
Max said:
This ^^^
W
whyachi
Guest
I think that moving the bridge trick will work, I'll check it out when I get home, if I'm told where the neck is. I had someone trustworthy hide it from me so I didn't torch the thing after I realized what happened.
DangerousR6
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 15,478
Moving the bridge sounds like the best solution to me, might have to do some readjusting with the nut and the pickup rout..... :dontknow:
Similar threads
