Johnny said:
I tried the wet rag and solder iron trick, but it didn't pull the dings out so I resorted to sanding. For one, I just sanded the contoured heel route up onto the upper horn. The other was at the forearm and I just sanded the curve down a bit to get rid of it.
I don't have any experience finishing and no significant wood working background so I'll be figuring out what I need to do as I go. As for tools, what I don't have, I will buy. I don't have a router, but will be getting one (maybe sooner rather than later).
It looks like the body has had sanding sealer applied. You can see in the pictures the difference between where I sanded and where I haven't. I'm assuming that I do not need to sand off all the old sanding sealer. I still don't know whether to stain or use a solid color, but would like to stain for the experience. I like the black dog transparent link. I would be more than happy with that.
As for the FR, I roughly held the neck in place and put a straight edge over the frets to get an idea of how high the strings would be at the bridge. The straight edge sits about a 1/4 inch off the body at the bridge. Of course the strings will be a bit higher than that. Will a top mount FR work or will have to shim or work on the neck pocket?
Thanks!
I wouldn't expect the soldering iron/wet rag trick to work. Iron's too small and too hot. You need a clothes pressing steam iron, or a film sealing iron and a wet rag...
Either one will run you less than $20. But, you're past that now, so it doesn't matter. I mention it for future reference, or in case somebody else has a similar problem.
You say you're inexperienced at finishing, so I'll pass along another nugget: It's tough to see what you're doing to a raw surface when hand-sanding. In a case like yours where you're taking out a dent, you're liable to sand a bigger divot in the surface that won't show up until you put some finish on it. You really want to use sanding blocks as much as possible, so the surface stays relatively level. It sounds like more work than it is. Even though you're removing more material, you've got a mechanical advantage, so it not only ends up easier, you'll get more attractive results. This applies in spades on flat surfaces. You hand-sand a flat area, then shoot it with anything with the least amount of sheen, and it'll look like the surface of a lake on a windy day - nothing but swells and troughs. No matter how careful you are, it'll happen. Your fingers just aren't flat, and their contours will transfer to the surface you're sanding.
As far as the sealer goes, you don't have to sand it all off. You need to apply more so the wood has a uniform surface. Otherwise, any stain you apply is going to be blotchy and you'll create a LOT of work for yourself straightening that mess out. Many cuss words have been invented immediately after staining an inconsistent surface.
I don't know what to tell you about the Floyd Rose, other than be patient.
Very patient. And do LOTS of research. They're an acute pain in the ass, but once you get past it they work pretty good. Until you have to change strings. Then all the cuss words you invented while finishing will come rushing back to you.
