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Gibson scale conversion neck.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Cowbell Fever!
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I had one coversion neck from warmoth and had no problem intonating.  Beautiful really ... Only problem was my dedos needed more space.  But that was my genetic problem, not a problem with the neck.
 
DMRACO said:
just curious when placing a bridge on a 24.75 scale neck, or any other neck for that matter.  When using a strat style bridge, what process does everyone use?

I usually set all the saddles in the middle of their adjustment range, measure the scale from the nut and place the bridge appropriately with the saddles on that measurement. 

  I figure the high E will have to be moved a bit closer to the nut while the low E will be moved towards the bridge.  What is everyone else doing for builds that don't have the bridge holes pre-drilled??
Did this on the 1st one and slightly tapered down to low E on the others. E and B are fairly in the same spot on all of mine.
 
DMRACO said:
just curious when placing a bridge on a 24.75 scale neck, or any other neck for that matter.  When using a strat style bridge, what process does everyone use?

I usually set all the saddles in the middle of their adjustment range, measure the scale from the nut and place the bridge appropriately with the saddles on that measurement. 

  I figure the high E will have to be moved a bit closer to the nut while the low E will be moved towards the bridge.  What is everyone else doing for builds that don't have the bridge holes pre-drilled??
For any 6 saddle bridge I start with:
E and g I start with 7/8 back.  A and b I startin the middle.  G and e I start 7/8 forward.
 
DMRACO said:
just curious when placing a bridge on a 24.75 scale neck, or any other neck for that matter.  When using a strat style bridge, what process does everyone use?
I've seen recommendations somewhere that the high side should be 0 - 1/8" further back, and the low side 1/8 - 1/4" further back than the theoretical scale length
 
I have a newly assembled Warmoth Gibson Scale Conversion Neck on a Warmoth Strat
Body with a USA Fender Hardtail Bridge and it intonates Sharp when checking with 2 high quality Seiko Tuners. 10-46 GHS Strings. I have it intonating however the low E and G saddle springs are removed and the low E saddle binds beyond adjustment range requiring filing the saddle string slot and bridge plate bore for the intonation adjustment screw. The intonated low E has only .080" clearance left between the saddle and bridge plate upright.
I'll probably leave the high E side bridge plate attachment screw in place and move the low E bridge plate side back approximately 1/8" to achieve proper intonation adjustments according to my measurements. Saddles should not bind on screws so filing holes and slots is necessary and angling bores for installing strings, etc.
The easier way is mod certain saddles not to bind on string slots and intonation screws. Shorten springs and perhaps drill/recess a spot for the low E spring on the bridge plate upright. On the other hand there is a reason Gibson bridges are set at an angle.
 
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I've never tried a conversion neck (maybe next screamin' deals blowout? lol) but this sounds like something the good folks at Warmoth would assist with.

Am I reading this right? Angling a hardtail bridge to get proper intonation without string, screw, saddle interference sounds pretty extreme. Aren't the Fender hardtails all string through not top loader so is it even possible without major mods?

For what its worth not specific to conversion necks but shorter scale in general. I think the need for drastic intonation adjustments on shorter scale guitars is exaggerated. I have a Jaguar style 24" scale setup very similar to my 25.5" scale guitars minimal relief action hovering around 4/64" at 15th fret all with the same 10-46's. The 24" scale needs at most 1/64" more string length correction on some strings versus the 25.5".

I think the Gibson horror stories come from periods where they located bridges badly. That in combination with still to this day they use inconsistent non-modern non-standard methods for calculating fret placement. It confuses people as to what the scale length really is - which is almost never true 24.75".
 
Am I reading this right?
No
Angling a hardtail bridge to get proper intonation without string, screw, saddle interference sounds pretty extreme. Aren't the Fender hardtails all string through not top loader so is it even possible without major mods?

A Gibson bridge is angled, but most have saddle adjustment also. A Fender one is not angled.

The other person is commenting on not having quite enough saddle adjustment available and what he had to do to achieve it.
 
Yeah my question was because of this statement...

"I'll probably leave the high E side bridge plate attachment screw in place and move the low E bridge plate side back approximately 1/8" to achieve proper intonation adjustments according to my measurements"
 
Yeah my question was because of this statement...

"I'll probably leave the high E side bridge plate attachment screw in place and move the low E bridge plate side back approximately 1/8" to achieve proper intonation adjustments according to my measurements"

A shorter screw or spring might be all that is needed.
 
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