GAS Alert!!!!

335 shape at least.  I wouldn't even care if it was a carved top, as long as it was a similar shape and I could get it hollow with an f hole.  This has come up over and over as a requested item.  It is time, Warmoth.  It is time!
 
I think they should do the original Fender Starcaster rtaher than an ES335.

starcasterfront.jpg


The Starcaster was a bolt-on, as any Warmoth would be so nobody could whine about it not being vintage-correct or whatever. The Starcaster design also opens itself to more options; five control pots and a toggle switch is a clear improvement (of course it wouldn't be hard to drill it for an ES style layout either) and the slightly offset body compared to the more symetrical ES335 design would lend itself better to the contoured heel.

The only thing that isn't so hot is the headstock. I'd be tempted to put a Firebird headstock on it ala Dave Grohl does with his ES, or just an angled Strat headstock. Or the Warmoth headstock would suit it very well too.
 
I don't know that I'd call five control pots and a toggle switch a "clear improvement". Quite the opposite. I'd be looking to knock it back to two, tops. Maybe even one. As it is, Strat control pots have never made sense, and the Gibson scheme of two each of volume and tone isn't even predictable in some cases, let alone practical. Maybe if I was 12 years old all that silliness (and more) would seem attractive, but not now.
 
I don't even get the point of having a Tone Pot... if you have a Pod... or just an amp thats half decent.
 
AGWANANA-RAMA said:
I don't even get the point of having a Tone Pot... if you have a Pod... or just an amp thats half decent.
Click to expand...

Well, they're simple and inexpensive first-order low-pass filters, so if you feel the need to drop out of the mix, lose some articulation, or wreck your guitar's character quickly and easily, then right onboard the instrument face is a handy place to install one.
 
In my mind if you're going to have controls, you might as well have as many as possible. So to me, 5 is a complete improvement over Gibson's 4. That said I do own one guitar which has just one pickup that goes straight to the jack and another that uses George Lynch wiring (push-push volume to control pickup selection) and no tone control. So I can see the benefits of both methods. I agree that Strat's controls make little sense (and are in the worst position possible).

Of course this is Warmoth, so you could have as few of those controls as you wanted or as I said, maybe they could offer it with Gibson style controls, or PRS double F-hole controls, or something else unique. Or you could leave it blank and drill any controls you wanted yourself.

Either way I think the Starcaster makes a better fit for Warmoth than an ES design does.
 
What is the fifth knob even for?  That guitar only has a bridge and a neck pickup.  The fifth knob is to turn on your dishwasher. :icon_biggrin:
 
Might be a "blend" pot? Maybe a high-pass to go with the low-pass controls? Or, perhaps it sets the voltage level on the Taser hooked up to the bass player? But, you're probably right - it's for the dishwasher.
 
???  :icon_scratch: I have a ES335 - and it's the only guitar in my collection I've never worked on . . . mainly because I really can't figure out how to get to anything!  Is there a web site or something that shows how the heck you're supposed to get inside the body to , say, replace the selector switch . . . or fix a broken solder joint on a pot?  Standing in a clue-free zone here . . .  :dontknow:
 
Best advice I've seen is to tie a string to the shaft of whatever part you're pulling out, then go ahead and pull it the part out through the f-hole. The string will follow it through the mounting hole. Be sure the string is long enough that its entire length doesn't follow the part. Remove the string from the old part and tie it to the new part, and when you're done soldering or whatever, you just pull the string and it pulls the part back to where it needs to be.
 
Ace Flibble said:
I think they should do the original Fender Starcaster rtaher than an ES335.

starcasterfront.jpg
Click to expand...

I'm with you on that one.  I'd buy one.  And and the owner of 6 warmoth instruments I'm not just whistling dixie here.  I'll PM my wish to the warmoth powers at be.
 
Cagey said:
Best advice I've seen is to tie a string to the shaft of whatever part you're pulling out, then go ahead and pull it the part out through the f-hole. The string will follow it through the mounting hole. Be sure the string is long enough that its entire length doesn't follow the part. Remove the string from the old part and tie it to the new part, and when you're done soldering or whatever, you just pull the string and it pulls the part back to where it needs to be.
Click to expand...

+1

Here's the official Stewmac answer: http://www.stewmac.com/tsarchive/ts0094.html
 
Ace Flibble said:
I think they should do the original Fender Starcaster rtaher than an ES335.

starcasterfront.jpg


The Starcaster was a bolt-on, as any Warmoth would be so nobody could whine about it not being vintage-correct or whatever. The Starcaster design also opens itself to more options; five control pots and a toggle switch is a clear improvement (of course it wouldn't be hard to drill it for an ES style layout either) and the slightly offset body compared to the more symetrical ES335 design would lend itself better to the contoured heel.

The only thing that isn't so hot is the headstock. I'd be tempted to put a Firebird headstock on it ala Dave Grohl does with his ES, or just an angled Strat headstock. Or the Warmoth headstock would suit it very well too.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm not a fan of the headstock either.  I'd probably put a Warmoth or LP headstock there. 
 
Damon said:
Cagey said:
Best advice I've seen is to tie a string to the shaft of whatever part you're pulling out, then go ahead and pull it the part out through the f-hole. The string will follow it through the mounting hole. Be sure the string is long enough that its entire length doesn't follow the part. Remove the string from the old part and tie it to the new part, and when you're done soldering or whatever, you just pull the string and it pulls the part back to where it needs to be.
Click to expand...

+1

Here's the official Stewmac answer: http://www.stewmac.com/tsarchive/ts0094.html
Click to expand...

Cagey and Damon - Thanks guys!  That's great info.
 
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