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Custom Chambered Pupleheart/Figured Maple Build

timezon3 said:
Having just ordered a purpleheart / ebony neck, and beginning my wait time :) I eagerly await pictures of your purpleheart / maple neck!

TZ

It took almost the full 5 weeks.  Mine will use the purple heart for  the fretboard.  I have Abalone inlays and gold frets, Warhead shape.

Color combo should look like this..

MN2305A.jpg
 
Neck has arrived.  24.75" scale warhead.  Maple and purple heart with abalone and gold frets.
Yum.  This will just get some clear.  Gloss on the headstock and satin everywhere else.




 
Coming together.  I still have a few brass bits coming from Doug including a new front plate, neck plate, and brass pick up rings.  The p90 ring is to cover a boo-boo when routing.

I had to use some hardened screws to mount the bridge.  I snapped three different screws in the purple heart.  (It looks like a war zone under the bridge.)

I took a nod from B3Guy with lights as well as the shape.  I did seeped the lower horn for easier fret access.  I can change the lights to any of 12 colors.  I do need to work out the bugs so all the brass screws are not installed.  When I turn the LEDs on I get a hum from the current.  I am going to try some copper shielding of the box and wires.  If not I will not be able to use it while playing.

My only other issue is a slight miscalculation on the measurement of the center piece.  You do not notice it up top but the variance grows to 1/8th inch near the bottom.  You can see the bridge is slightly off center in the body, but lines up perfect with the neck.  Only well. 

Overall I am happy.  As I said, the body is made from 11 pieces of "scrap" I cut and glued together.  The body is heavily chambered to off-set the weight of the purple-heart.



 
I like it too, very cool.

DMRACO said:
...You can see the bridge is slightly off center in the body, but lines up perfect with the neck.  Only well.

The off-centre-ness is big enough to see that it's clearly a carefully planned part of the offset design. Don't let anybody tell you different.
 
DMRACO said:
My only other issue is a slight miscalculation on the measurement of the center piece.  You do not notice it up top but the variance grows to 1/8th inch near the bottom.  You can see the bridge is slightly off center in the body, but lines up perfect with the neck.  Only well.
Form follows function. If the bridge needs to be where it is in order for the instrument to function properly, then that's exactly where it should be!

Nicely done!  :icon_thumright:
 
Thanks all.  The bridge is exactly where it needs to be.  I think the top piece shifted a bit when I glued it on.  My angles are correct. 

Since I was only able to apply downward pressure it may have slid.  Next time I will install a brace to stop it from happening
 
No, that's Photobucket screwing everyone who trusted them. You can't link to photos stored on their site any more unless you pay an exorbitant fee for doing so.
 
Cagey said:
No, that's Photobucket screwing everyone who trusted them. You can't link to photos stored on their site any more unless you pay an exorbitant fee for doing so.
But that shouldn't keep other people from seeing photos other people post...And the photos I posted the other day of Big Steve's tele parts were linked from photobucket...

Guess I'll have to find another or just post as attachment...
 
Here are some photos attached
 

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Reason I ask is that DC shouldn't cause any noise. Is there some kind of brightness control or sequencer or anything like that involved, or is it just 3 batteries powering up some LEDs?
 
Cagey said:
Reason I ask is that DC shouldn't cause any noise. Is there some kind of brightness control or sequencer or anything like that involved, or is it just 3 batteries powering up some LEDs?

There is a control pad that controls the color and pattern of the lights.  it is located just inside the F hole. 

I have never shielded before because I have never had an issue.  Do I shield the POT? Pickup?  Battery pack?  Controller, EVERYTHING?!?!
 
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