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compound radius problems...

rockskate4x

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Hey, guys... what bridge choices have problems with compound radius necks? I like a TOM, but I'm worried about buzzing on the frets or bad intonation with a compound radius... What do you think?
 
It's been discussed before - I can't find the thread right now, but the upshot is that you can't really notice the radius change.  If you can, then all you need to do is to deepen the slots for the inner strings a bit, and you're good.

 
You won't have intonation problems. I did notice the inner strings seemed a little higher the higher up the neck they go. That can be adjusted if needed.

Floyd Rose bridge saddles need to be shimmed - since their default radius is 10" I believe.
 
The bridge will probably turn out to be 18.5" with a Warmoth compound radiused neck.  There shouldn't be any trouble filing your saddles for that.
 
TOM's are quite universally a 12" radius, and the bridge pieces need to be filed by someone who knows what their intent is. Floyd Roses need to have the saddles adjusted with shims - there are kits for this. Any Fenderish, six-saddle bridge with twelve little adjustment screws will be the easiest out of the box. It's surprising that there isn't an aftermarket, flatter tuneomatic yet - there are companies like Schecter & Godin that sell 16" radius-necked guitars with TOM's, but they must be arranging some proprietary deal with a hardware maker.
 
GoDrex said:
You won't have intonation problems. I did notice the inner strings seemed a little higher the higher up the neck they go. That can be adjusted if needed.

Floyd Rose bridge saddles need to be shimmed - since their default radius is 10" I believe.
I didn't and it's fine. However, I have a gotoh Floyd and it's a bit different.
 
You get a triangular file from the hardware store and flatten the middle two saddles just a hair, then re-notch them with a .010 nut file.Then you flatten the B and A just a 1/2 hair. Takes about 15 minutes and if you screw it up, file down the E's and re-measure. Get a radius gauge if you want to be sure it's exactly right. I was initially concerned about this, but it turned out to be an easy fix on my LP. You'd be surprised how small the actual difference is between 12" and 18" radius, but it does make a difference in the high fret action.
 
yikes, no thanks.... I'll ask someone to do all that that filing for me... or just go with the fender style bridge... I like TOM's but I find most flatmounts ok for me too...

Thanks for the quick responses!!!
 
http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=29

These have a 16" inch radius and come with graphtech saddles.
 
GoDrex said:
You won't have intonation problems. I did notice the inner strings seemed a little higher the higher up the neck they go. That can be adjusted if needed.

Floyd Rose bridge saddles need to be shimmed - since their default radius is 10" I believe.
If you ever need to figure out the shims for a Floyd: http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=pwDGkNlS5ESXuEj7hDA_VMQ
 
If the idea of filing down $6 worth of metal freaks you out, you need a different hobby imhop.
 
I also like individual saddles because strings don't really all vibrate in a consistent way - I use an eyeball measurement to get close, but each string then gets fine-tuned by buzz/not-buzz. For example, I usually have at least one guitar with a wound third on it, and I never know which one it's gonna be.  :icon_scratch: The height you need for a wound .020" isn't the same as the height for an unwound .017".
 
I'm learning as I go... It scares me now, but heck, alot of things used to scare me... maybe I should just go for it...
 
Don't be scared... go for it!

What's the risk if you screw up?  a set of TOM bridge inserts.

But you won't screw up....  keep your eyes on the watch.... you are getting very sleepy....  when I snap my fingers you will awake and grab your triangle file...
 
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