Compound radius bridge setup.

BlueLou222

Newbie
Messages
9
In another post on this forum I read that the estimated bridge radius for a compound radius neck is approx 18". However I can't seem to find a tool to measure an 18 " radius at StewMac. Did most of you out there just make your own or use a 16 or a 20 and split the difference?
 
I got great low action and minimal amounts of buzzing on my compound radius guitar, and I used NO radius gauges. If you start your setup with the right radius gauge, you will still have to make different adjustments to the strings depending on how widely each one vibrates. I think that you will find that the thicker strings will need more room. Trust your fingers and your ears to test between adjustments.
 
BlueLou222 said:
In another post on this forum I read that the estimated bridge radius for a compound radius neck is approx 18". However I can't seem to find a tool to measure an 18 " radius at StewMac. Did most of you out there just make your own or use a 16 or a 20 and split the difference?

I have a full set of radius gauges and you're right - there's no 18". But, it is as Rockskate4x says - get it close, then tweak it, because depending on how well your neck is set up, what gauge set of strings you're using, what kind of grip you have, your picking style, etc., it'll change where you put your saddles. I never use radius gauges during setup. I got 'em mostly to see where things are, not where to set them.
 
I had the same thought on my first build. I used the 20 gauge then any strings that buzzed were raised slightly(very little)...I assume they are now at about the 18...this was for 10-46 strings
 
Thanks for all the input. At this point I don't have any radius gauges and with the current neck (with a 9.5 ) I have just kinda winged it using most of the advice you all have just given me. And I have been pretty happy with how it plays. On pins and needles Waitin for my new neck. Waitin gives a guy too much time to think sometimes.
 
The StewMac radius gauges are under-string gauges. If you use them over the strings, you get a slightly smaller diameter.
 
The radius is the same, but center point relocates so the string clearance to the frets isn't the same from string-to-string. Since there's no good way to set a center point to begin with, all the measurements are relative anyway.

Really, the things aren't much good for what they're sold for at all. They're just indicators that'll tell you if one or more strings are out of line with the others, which they almost always are. Past that, you have to make individual adjustments anyway and the gauge won't align once you do. The only thing they're really good at is identifying your fretboard radius, if knowing a number is important. And, sometimes it is. For instance, if you're resurfacing it prior to fret installation.
 
I used string and a ruler to create an 18" radius template from the thin plastic of a For Sale sign. I used that over the strings and then I I just eyeball it to what 'looks right and feels right' when I set my string height.
 
Cagey said:
The radius is the same, but center point relocates so the string clearance to the frets isn't the same from string-to-string. Since there's no good way to set a center point to begin with, all the measurements are relative anyway.
What Cagey said is true, so it is all a bit of a guessing game.  If you use the 16 over the end of the neck, and just rest it on the strings, you should be okay.  I just use it to be sure my eyes are not completely messed up, and that it rests more or less on all the strings.  I usually set the two E's height and get the others close, and then check with the gauge to be sure I am not seeing things.
Patrick

 
idid what you suggested Patrick and used a 16 at the end of the fretboard, allthough under the strings. I have put on my new neck and after playing around with it I have found a setup that works well. It does have some high frets though and eventually I'm gonna get around to adressing those issues. but I have it at a decent action with no buzzing though I'd like to get it a hair lower.

Lou
 
Here's some freebies:
http://www.pickguardian.com/pickguardian/Images/Pickguardian%20Neck%20Radius%20Gauges.pdf

But the advantage to doing setups by guides and measuring devices is if you have to do a wall of new guitars at a store, or you have fifteen minutes to bang it out for $15. if it's your guitar it all comes down to individual string paths anyway. How can you know what's too low, and too high, unless you try it those ways too? The first time I measured my setup, I'd been doing them for 20 years and it measured... normal. Ordinary. Average. Hey! Imagine that...
 
I'm used to high action, but I think I could have my W lower. I just set them all where they wouldn't buzz when hammered, then tried to adjust the lower ones to where I wouldn't get tripped up because they didn't resemble some smooth arc. Maybe this weekend.
 
If you have a fret rocker, sometimes you find that there are only a couple frets that are sitting a bit proud and making the rest of them sound bad.

Fret_Rocker_sm.jpg


Fret rocker gauge

You can get them here and while they seem expensive, they're really indispensable. Once you find a high fret, you can sometimes just knock it down with a fret hammer. It's fast and easy and saves you from having to do any grinding and polishing. If that doesn't work then you've got a bigger job in front of you, but it's worth a shot and it's essentially free if you have the tools.

Of course, if you have those tools you probably already know that, so never mind.
 
You can get fret rockers here, too:

http://www.art-alternatives.com/products/items/acrylic-triangles.html

Though they're usually discounted from those prices, so it's not so bad.... you do want the cut acrylic and not the cast for sure. You can sometime buy a whole box of that stuff on Ebay for $10 anyway. Straightedges until the apocalypse! Invent strange, new, giant board games for bedbugs....
 
Back
Top