Building a Lefty Jazzmaster ... maybe (care to sway me?)

[reluctant-builder]

Hey, guys. If you're still tuned in, I've hit a wall.

I'm trying to be as diligent as possible. Sussing out the best parts and from whom to buy them, and I think I've done pretty OK with that. It's a variety of Warmoth, Stew Mac and Darren Riley. I'm all but certain I'll go with Novak for the pickups. I'm thinking of a JM-V in the neck but I'm still unsure whether a JM-FAT or a JM-90 for the bridge.

Additionally, I just learned about the foam. It seems like a simple enough issue: buy some weather stripping at Lowe's and stick it in the pickup routs, put the pups on top and voila. However, I'm running afoul of the mounting screws. I've found on GPR and Darren Riley some 3 x 1 screws that are said to be specifically for JM pups ... but they seem awfully long (http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/images/large/001-6295-049.jpg).

Now, I suppose a lot of the screw-length is going to be through the foam and only a small portion of the point would go into the body. Is that right? I suppose, too, that I'll need to drill holes in the pickup routs for the screws, correct?

I had the epiphany to Google for a build checklist and I found two threads here that basically argued for why no checklists existed!

 

[jalane]

Hey, guys. If you're still tuned in, I've hit a wall.

I'm trying to be as diligent as possible. Sussing out the best parts and from whom to buy them, and I think I've done pretty OK with that. It's a variety of Warmoth, Stew Mac and Darren Riley. I'm all but certain I'll go with Novak for the pickups. I'm thinking of a JM-V in the neck but I'm still unsure whether a JM-FAT or a JM-90 for the bridge.

Additionally, I just learned about the foam. It seems like a simple enough issue: buy some weather stripping at Lowe's and stick it in the pickup routs, put the pups on top and voila. However, I'm running afoul of the mounting screws. I've found on GPR and Darren Riley some 3 x 1 screws that are said to be specifically for JM pups ... but they seem awfully long (http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/images/large/001-6295-049.jpg).

Now, I suppose a lot of the screw-length is going to be through the foam and only a small portion of the point would go into the body. Is that right? I suppose, too, that I'll need to drill holes in the pickup routs for the screws, correct?

I had the epiphany to Google for a build checklist and I found two threads here that basically argued for why no checklists existed!

Yep, just any foam will do.  The foam I put in mine was just some that I cut off some packaging, i cut it to be about 1"-1.5" thick.  

And the screws that you linked a picture of are, in fact, the correct screws.  I know they seem long, but it will make sense once you have the body in hand.

As far as a partslist goes, I just went on the Fender website and downloaded a partslist for an AVRI jazzmaster.  It should be pretty close for you since you're keeping yours pretty close to fender specs.

 

[tfarny]

For a parts list, just lay out a guitar (electric, hopefully), start at the top and work your way down, writing down everything that you see.

Welcome to the dark side.  :evil4: :evil4:

 

[Mor Paul]

Darren Riley's a good guy, I've been to his shop a few times. He was going to set up my guitar, but couldn't, due to some hand problems. Novak, I think he works from Charlotte, NC, so, I'd like to visit him sometime too. That's about 2 hours from me, maybe less.

 

[reluctant-builder]

Darren Riley's a good guy, I've been to his shop a few times. He was going to set up my guitar, but couldn't, due to some hand problems. Novak, I think he works from Charlotte, NC, so, I'd like to visit him sometime too. That's about 2 hours from me, maybe less.

Yeah, I really like the idea of helping to support guys that are doing something they obviously enjoy and who provide us with what we enjoy, and at pretty fair prices.

 

[reluctant-builder]

Got a quote from my tech on the wiring job. $130. Not including parts.

I didn't spit out my water or anything, but it doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy inside.

I guess it's time for me to practice my soldering.

Does anyone know exactly which kind of .033uf capacitor I need for a Jazzmaster? I see there are all sorts, with varying voltages. I have not seen, on any of the wiring diagrams, where voltage is specified, just the number of micro Farads.

Surely, if I can bring myself to jump at this project, place my order for the body and the parts, when I've assembled, shielded, soldered and have in my hands a (hopefully) working and beautiful new axe ... all of this agita and hand-wringing will have been worth it.

Right?

I'm living up to my name.

 

[Cagey]

$130 is pretty stiff for wiring a guitar. There just isn't that much to it. Most of the guys who do it can't even read schematics; they need a wiring diagram. So, you're not paying for any special skill other than soldering according to a paint-by-numbers sketch.

As for which type of capacitor you need, don't let anybody kid you: it doesn't matter. The capacitance value is what counts. If you feel you'd like a .033uf part, order what Warmoth sells. They're $.50, they're small, and they work perfectly. Don't worry about the working voltage. The voltages in a guitar are so small you could use fruit fly brains for caps and it wouldn't hurt them.

 

[animal control]

$130 seems like a lot of money to wire your project. Soldering may seem overwhelming if you have never done it but it really doesn't take long to pick up the knack. It's like the proverbial riding a bike - you practice it, all of a sudden you get it, then you've got it.

Here is a tutorial on changing some pickups around that has a pretty good chunk on soldering:

http://www.youtube.com/user/smbstressfest#p/c/0/Oo7AKOdAP40

 

[reluctant-builder]

Thanks, guys! I'm glad I wasn't off-base in thinking that was an absurd figure.

And for the comments about the caps: the levity is much appreciated. I chuckled at the "fruit fly brains."

I'll check out that video tomorrow. Right now, it's time for a deep breath, bed, and dreams of my impending build.

 

[reluctant-builder]

I'm on the hunt for a .033uf capacitor. Those little buggers are hard to find by their lonesome.

Does it matter whether I use the Cadillac "chicklet" kind or the orange disc kind or the "orange drop," et al? I got the message loud and clear that the voltage is a non-issue since the lowest voltage value seems to be 100 and that's about 100 times the voltage running through the guitar... but as to the actual quality of the capacitor, any help?

I was also told a higher capacitance than .033 (like, say, the much more common and easily found .047) would make the Jazzmaster "darker." Can anyone quantify that darkness for me?

And for wire ... I found 90' of 22-gauge wire (which looked like the same thickness as most guitar wiring I've seen) in three spools of 30' -- red, black, green -- at RadioShack. It was like seven bucks. Stew Mac and others are offering a foot of black, a foot of white and a foot of coaxial cable (what the hell would I need that for??), for about five bucks. Seems like the better value lies with the former option and, for the insanity of the Jazzmaster's wiring, I won't need to fear running out.

Inching ever nearer. Baby, baby steps. But now I'm getting itchy to just fire on all these items and get down to it (after the arduous wait for the ingredients to arrive).

Thanks guys, for all the input and support. I'm getting there. I promise.

 

[Cagey]

The type of capacitor doesn't matter. You can use mylar, polyester film, ceramic, oil over paper, mica, air, tantalum, on and on. For a given value, they'll all perform the same way. The capacitance is what matters. The various dielectrics just change the working voltage and/or package size/configuration.

.033uf is already pushing it for a guitar. Most guitars use .022uf. If you increase the size to .047uf, you'll change where the high frequency cutoff point is, possibly to an unusable point.

 

[tfarny]

Most fenders, traditionally, use .047. Gibsons traditionall use .022. Both companies have used other values. Higher values will "roll off" more of the midrange along with the treble - so a humbucker combined with a higher value cap is basically a "mud knob". I recommend you go to radio shack and get half a dozen values from .005 to .1, solder them one by one in your current guitar, and see how it affects the sound. Personally, I think that .01 is the sweet spot - it rolls of the highs pretty effectively while preserving the midrange. Others will disagree, which is fine - but .047 rolls off a lot of useful frequency, too much for me. Cheap capacitors work just fine.

Check this out:

http://www.stellartone.com/page.asp?navid=164

Yes, there is a lot out there once you leave behind the "just copy a Fender" world.

 

[reluctant-builder]

Wow. That's good to know. Thanks, guys.

So, conceivably, I could use a .01 and a .022 ... instead of .022 and .033, like the diagram says. I am grateful you guys can help me think a little less concretely and open my eyes to that I'm not a slave to the wiring diagram.

 

[tfarny]

Or, you can ditch the whole silly "rhythm circuit" idea and just have master volume, master tone. You can keep the rhythm circuit parts in there but unconnected if you want it to look vintage, replace them with switches (parallel, series, etc.), or whatever. The sky is the limit although simpler is better if you are going to play it live.

 

[reluctant-builder]

Just for grins, I decided to see what another tech I know of would quote for the wiring ... I still plan to do it myself, but I wanted to know what he'd say. $125 with the note: "It's a little complicated."

Unglaublich.

But at least it both cements my resolve to do it myself and makes me realize my guy wasn't being a jerk; it's just that New York City is ridiculous.

 

[Corey P.]

If the $125 also includes a setup it's not a terrible price, but if that's the price for the wiring alone, yeah, that's too (damn) high.

 

[tfarny]

Do the wiring yourself but pay whatever it takes to get the frets and fretboard edge absolutely perfect.

 

[reluctant-builder]

Do the wiring yourself but pay whatever it takes to get the frets and fretboard edge absolutely perfect.

So, am I correct to infer that Warmoth doesn't do anything more than the most cursory of fret jobs?

 

[bagman67]

Do the wiring yourself but pay whatever it takes to get the frets and fretboard edge absolutely perfect.

So, am I correct to infer that Warmoth doesn't do anything more than the most cursory of fret jobs?

They do excellent fret installation, but they don't claim to do a full fret-dress.  Even so, many forumites install Warmoth necks straight-out-of-the-box, and have no gripes.  Myself, I'm not that fussy, but for players who are, a pro fret job may make the difference between "pretty good" and "totally awesome."

 

[Cagey]

So, am I correct to infer that Warmoth doesn't do anything more than the most cursory of fret jobs?

Bagman is correct. Warmoth's fret installations are excellent. But, if you want the ends dressed or the faces polished, or you want them levelled and crowned to within a frog's hair, you may have to seek professional help. Depending on where you live, that can be a reasonable thing to do, although going by some of the stories I hear about what they charge in some places like New York or California where the cost of living is very high, or in areas where professional help is thin on the ground, you may want to think twice about it due to cost. The necks are great as-is. I have a couple I use that way, and I'm quite good at fretwork so it's not money or time holding me back. But, the frets are only ground level with the sides of the fretboard and then bevelled to 30 degrees or so. The taller the frets are, the more you'll want to have them dressed.