Buffing. What to use

[dmraco]

Who uses a buffing machine/arbor?

My finishes are good but I feel I have reached my limits of what I can do by hand.  I have burned out my black and decker automotive orbital style polisher. 

What does everyone else use?  Tonar??

I wish I had one of those big arbors like I saw at the Gibson factory :headbang:

 

[Tonar8352]

I use a combination of three different tools. I use a Stew Mac polishing arbor, an air driven DA, and an Black and Decker electric DA. I use foam pads on the DA's and microfiber rags to clean the surface of any excess polish after each application.

 

[dmraco]

I use a combination of three different tools. I use a Stew Mac polishing arbor, an air driven DA, and an Black and Decker electric DA. I use foam pads on the DA's and microfiber rags to clean the surface of any excess polish after each application.

DA?  I looked at the stew mac....$600 :sad1: :sad1: :sad1:

 

[bagman67]

I use a combination of three different tools. I use a Stew Mac polishing arbor, an air driven DA, and an Black and Decker electric DA. I use foam pads on the DA's and microfiber rags to clean the surface of any excess polish after each application.

DA?  I looked at the stew mac....$600 :sad1: :sad1: :sad1:

Just guessing here, but I think DA means "drill arbor".


https://www.google.com/search?q=drill+buffer&safe=off&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=AXwKUq_1DuiEygH9mIHwDA&ved=0CHkQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=979

 

[Tonar8352]

DA is a duel action sander like this.
http://www.kolorhouse.com/ast-3022.html

The thing with an air driven DA is it is like any pneumatic tool, they require a lot of air so you will need to have a compressor with a lot of CFM, "a lot" like 15 CFM. You can accomplish the same finish with a Black & Decker electric DA Sander.  Make sure it has a hook and loop type attachment for the polishing pads. Go to a good automotive paint supply house, tell them what you want to accomplish and they can steer you to the correct foam pads to buff it out.

While you at it you may want to ask them what their favorite rubbing and polishing compounds are.

 

[dmraco]

DA is a duel action sander like this.
http://www.kolorhouse.com/ast-3022.html

The thing with an air driven DA is it is like any pneumatic tool, they require a lot of air so you will need to have a compressor with a lot of CFM, "a lot" like 15 CFM. You can accomplish the same finish with a Black & Decker electric DA Sander.  Make sure it has a hook and loop type attachment for the polishing pads. Go to a good automotive paint supply house, tell them what you want to accomplish and they can steer you to the correct foam pads to buff it out.



While you at it you may want to ask them what their favorite rubbing and polishing compounds are.

Thanks.  I just purchased a small three inch air driven polish tool. I have a 25 gallon tank and can push most air tools.  Motor runs a bit though.

I have used Mcquires fine cut polish.  What do you use ?

I also have polish pad that go up to 12000 grit.  However I have found much beyond 3000 is not needed when you have a good buffer

 

[bagman67]

Cool, thanks for the explanation. 

 

[Cagey]

It's important that before you get to the buffing stage that you gradually wet sand the finish to a pretty fine point, and you can't skip steps. Each sanding stage removes the scratches from the previous stage and if you try to skip one, you'll end up not removing the deeper scratches from the previous abrasive. Once that happens, everything you do after that is almost a waste of time; it'll never get to that "wet glass" point you're looking for.

You also have to be patient about letting the finish harden, or it won't respond properly. Too soon, and all you'll do is load up the paper and not get much work done. You also need a good hard rubber backup. Trying to do it with just paper in hand will leave you with a wavy surface.

When I did the L5S, after two weeks the finish was ready to abuse. I started with 600 grit, and gradually worked through 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit papers. At that point, it was ready for buffing. I used StewMac's Colortone compounds, just using the medium, fine, and swirl remover grits. Those I applied with with a Makita 9227C buffer...

That unit has the hook & loop pad attachment Tonar mentioned. Allows for easy changing of the pads. I used wool; foam works too.  Be sure to get a pad for each compound! You can't change compounds on a pad, or you're wasting your time. Get to the finer grits, and you'll still be rubbing in the coarser grits, which is defeating your purpose. Finally, some Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax hand applied & rubbed out. That got the finish to this...

Be sure to apply the compound to the pad, not the work surface. Also, cut a neck and armholes out of a garbage bag to wear as a shield, and don't do this near anything you wouldn't want to get rubbing compound on. The stuff flies, and I'm not kidding.

 

[Cagey]

I should mention that you can do all this without a buffer. It's just that doing it by hand takes a long time. If you're patient, that's a viable way to get it done. Buffers aren't cheap, so unless you're planning on doing this more than a couple/few times, that may be the way to go.

Also, using a hand-held buffer like the Makita shown above is pretty much a two-man job. When that buffing wheel contacts the part, it wants to throw it. You can do the front and back on your own if you've got a router mat to hold the body in place, but the sides really require somebody to hold the thing in place.

 

[bagman67]

I've done this by hand, using progressive grades of micromesh cloths and then swirl remover and Meguiar's glaze:

Cagey's right - it takes for-flippin'-ever, but it can be done.

 

[Cagey]

I did that blood red Black Korina VIP by hand, which is what drove me to invest in the buffer. Definitely a major time-saver, and a lot less work. I've wanted a floor-standing buffer like StewMac sells for a while because they're even more fun, but they're awfully dear.

That's a beautiful body you've got going there - how come we haven't seen that one yet? Or, did I miss it somehow?

 

[bagman67]

Stalled out on assembly.  Stuff keeps coming up - had company in the house all summer, raising a toddler, dealing with teen angst and (much worse) ex-wife angst, working 60-hour weeks, yadda yadda. 


She's much more contrast-y in person, and has more of a golden cast to the brown.  Once it comes together I'll feel safe submitting it to the DIY-finished GOM competition sometime.  You're right, it is a very handsome body.  THanks for your remark to that effect.


Bagman.

 

[Hbom]

Here's a nice used setup if you are interested in going that way.
http://anchorage.craigslist.org/msg/3965883355.html

no affiliation.

:rock-on:

 

[dmraco]

Here's a nice used setup if you are interested in going that way.
http://anchorage.craigslist.org/msg/3965883355.html

no affiliation.

:rock-on:

Anchorage......maybe I will just buzz on by :laughing7:

 

[Cagey]

Hehe! Yeah. If he'd ship it, that's a helluva price on that unit. But, I know it's heavy and Anchorage is sorta off the beaten path, so...

 

[swarfrat]

At least in Anchorage, the beaten path is connected to paved roads that connect to the continental US eventually.  It's probably cheaper to ship is to you than it is to have it shipped to DeadHorse, AK.

 

[Jumble Jumble]

What a nice evocative post. Brought to mind the pleasure of the gradual transition between bustling metropolis and flat-out nowheresville.

 

[sixstringsamurai]

I use Presta Cut Cream, and swirl remover.
Been doing it by hand, but I want one of these!!!

 

[dmraco]

Harbor Freight has some nice DA buffers.  I may give one of them a shot.  Do most use foam or cloth?

 

[Hbom]

At least in Anchorage, the beaten path is connected to paved roads that connect to the continental US eventually.  It's probably cheaper to ship is to you than it is to have it shipped to DeadHorse, AK.

Actually the same roads that connect Anchorage to the overpopulated 48 go to Deadhorse too, you just turn right instead of left up in Fairbanks.
As for shipping something up there, I wouldn't want to guess.