3-per-side pegheads, straightest runs to tuning machines

[reluctant-builder]

I tried searching for a topic on this, to no avail.

I've read on these boards that it's preferable to have a straight run to the tuning machines.

I don't know why or whether that's truly preferable, just as I don't know why Gibsons -- for example -- have the strings break to the right and left as well as downward with the paddle's pitch, or whether that is truly preferable.

But, assuming a straight line through the nut right to the machine is desirable (regardless of the downward break angle), which of the 3-per-side pegheads provide the straightest run to the machines?

It looks, to me, like it's the Variax. I've heard, though, that the "Warmoth" stock is modeled after the PRS stock, which provides straight runs to the tuning machines. Or am I mistaken, and it's the Variax that's most like the PRS?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Cagey]

This is a Warmoth headstock on DBU's "Burn Unit" build and the strings aren't lined up perfectly, but they're better than you'd get on a Gibson. But, he's got a locking nut on there and those will let you get away with murder.

I can't find anything built with a Variax headstock.

 

[rapfohl09]

Here is a Variax headstock...

They are pretty straight, but still not completely.

 

[reluctant-builder]

Here is a Variax headstock...

They are pretty straight, but still not completely.

Cool! Thanks for the picture. I think the Variax is the winner, here.

Nice guitar, by the way!

 

[swarfrat]

man that might have been tempting had I noticed it before ordering (or not ordering, since thats not confirmed)

 

[Strat Avenger]

I think those are "straight enough".  I too, prefer straight string pull, even with locking nuts. It just seems "right" to me.  Some of the Jackson and old Kramer headstocks are ridiculous when it comes to how the string angles toward the tuner after it passes the nut.

 

[bagman67]

Carvin's 3-on-a-side "carvetop" headstock pulls pretty straight.

 

[simple]

Yep. Confirming the Variax peghead is the straightest string pull Warmoth offers.

 

[Alfang]

A properly prepared nut has the slots angled towards the tuner, not just straight inline with the neck, this causes the string to break once from the front edge of the nut down and towards the tuner. Someone here months ago, maybe years posted a video of a REAL pro setting up a blank nut, and thats how he did it, and it made sense.
So the angle of the strings to the tuner doesnt matter provided the nut is correct, it just looks goofey if their all spayed or fanned out

 

[reluctant-builder]

It just looks goofey if their all spayed or fanned out

I wholeheartedly agree.

 

[Strat Avenger]

A properly prepared nut has the slots angled towards the tuner, not just straight inline with the neck, this causes the string to break once from the front edge of the nut down and towards the tuner. Someone here months ago, maybe years posted a video of a REAL pro setting up a blank nut, and thats how he did it, and it made sense.
So the angle of the strings to the tuner doesnt matter provided the nut is correct, it just looks goofey if their all spayed or fanned out

Yeah I disagree.Of course it matters. A sharp angle creates additional friction.

 

[Cagey]

A properly prepared nut has the slots angled towards the tuner, not just straight inline with the neck, this causes the string to break once from the front edge of the nut down and towards the tuner. Someone here months ago, maybe years posted a video of a REAL pro setting up a blank nut, and thats how he did it, and it made sense.
So the angle of the strings to the tuner doesnt matter provided the nut is correct, it just looks goofey if their all spayed or fanned out

Yeah I disagree.Of course it matters. A sharp angle creates additional friction.

Me, too, because it does matter. Where you put the angle doesn't matter. That it exists does. Especially on spring steel that develops a kink at its bend. It naturally wants to return to that bend point, which makes tuning over time and repeatability problematic.

 

[stubhead]

If you're using a decent set of feeler gauges, I find that sanding/filing/grinding the back angle - that one that goes down towards the tuners - if you can stop cutting on that angle with the strings coming off the front about .015" higher than you're eventually shooting for, it'll let you start to "roll" the slot toward the front a bit more. You can maybe end up with 1/16" (1.59mm) of a semi-flat contact area, but of course anywhere past parallel to the natural string path is a guarantee of buzzing.

It's tricky for two reasons - You may or may not end up usually mounting your strings at a different height on the string posts naturally; and strings, especially new wound strings, aren't completely bent at the nut. They have to go through some playing and stretching out to be really flat off the nut. But you need the full set incl. woundies to cut the slots accurately in width. HA HA HA! And the universe hates you...

I wish there was a really simple way to do it, but it tends to follow the same rule as truss rod adjustment, action height, even "tone" - if you view it as an ongoing project instead of wanting it to be ALL DONE-RIGHT NOW! This is why the local guy at the guitar store can never, ever give your guitar as good a setup as you (eventually) can, if you learn your shit. Read Erlewine...

It can take me upwards of a year to even figure out what kind and gauge of strings a particular guitar needs/likes the best. The path not the destination blah blah POW!

(i just shot the buddha!)