Recent content by rahimiiii

Thanks for the advise. Someone on reranch is going to send me a few sets of inserts so I'll install them sometimes. I have access to a drill press. By the way in my experience if the insert is off a little bit you can enlarge the holes on the body to correct it, I've done it on acoustic builds...

I mean the heel mounting holes for mounting neck to body. I read somewhere that someone has put threaded inserts into it and I just want to see how they did it and if such hardware is available locally in Germany because I can't do online orders at the moment...

I have a Warmoth koa neck that the mounting hole has stripped. I want to drill it out and put an insert into it, where can I get the insert in Germany? I need it pretty quick.... (I can't do online orders because I don't have a working credit card at the moment)

100 dollars can do a lot of guitars (like more than 10) even with the most expensive lacquer available. If it was me I would either spray on sealer followed by clear (or just pore fill then tons of clear) then polish when cured. Otherwise if you are not good with finishing or doesn't have the...

The problem is if you manage to get to an artist to sign a guitar they usually won't sign anything that doesn't endorse them (for example Santana would not sign a Fender). I think they're bound by contract or something. Now if you make a forgery out of Warmoth parts complete with authentic decal...

Back to my second acoustic guitar, I now understand why Warmoth won't install stainless steel frets on bound neck. While SS frets are hard to install and trim on an unbound neck on a bound neck things just got harder. There are no easy way to remove the tang for the binding other than grinding...

You mean that Herman Li and Sam Totman signature (they're called Dragonforce, I call them DragonFarce.) Herman Li thinks he's like Jet Li or Jackie Chan... except if you go to Hong Kong (where he's from) or Taiwan and I go around ask ask "Hey you know Herman Li" (say his chinese name they might...

No need to humidify in Taiwan.. it's plenty humid here already. RH is always above 60% without a dehumidifier. I can get it to 40% if I leave a dehumidifier on at all times which eats alot of electricity.

I guess that depends... you can cut out the waste section of the wood and try to join it but you will have to be really good to be able to hide it. Maybe an inlay at the top to hide it? Hiding end grain joins are really hard...

I always line my stands with old T-shirts because most inexpensive stand will eat nitro finish.

You'll be lucky to get the cost of the original item back... there are not much of a market for custom made guitars on ebay. Most people usually part them out but if it isn't a Fender or Gibson or other major branded part then you'll have to sell it cheap. I sometimes let bodies that are painted...

Top is Englemann spruce, back and side is Bubinga, Neck is sapele (because hondo manogany is CITES restricted therefore unavailable, next build the neck will be of African (Khaya) Mahogany), binding is curly maple, fretboard and bridge is ebony. I may use sonokling rosewood (basically plantation...

If you can still smell lacquer from the finish then it's not cured. Some lacquer like many acrylics never get hard... you need to try different brands. I have heard of Deft doing this as well.

I think it should fit but it looks like one of the upper horns won't fit. Do you have an actual JEM body that you can put over and see if it fits?

Ok it's not completely finished yet but all major work is done all that is left is clear coating and polishing. This is my second acoustic guitar build. This was made from a LMI unserviced kit. For those familiar with LMI their unserviced kit consists of a box of wood and other parts required to...